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WARNING MK2 ALLOYS DONT FIT ON A MK1 WITHOUT SPACERS!!!!!!
- Thread starter j4wyb
- Start date
mossyv6":1imn5so3 said:
This is what I though Paul but on doing a fair bit of research it seems to me the spigot and spigot ring only really centre the wheel to allow it to align correctly. If you have tapered bolts and fit the wheel correctly, bolt it up in the right sequence and torque you can avoid mis-alignment - though this may be slightly heath-robinson to most people. I understand the hub spigot can take some load in extreme circumstances but this is only if the wheel slips/rotates relative to the hub i.e. if you hit something or perhaps brake VERY heavily and suddenly but this is only likely if the wheel nuts are not torqued correctly.
So it seems to me, when the wheel is bolted up, the hub spigot takes no load, it is the friction between the hub and wheel, caused by the tension of the studs, which transfers the load and prevents the wheel rotating relative to the hub - which is what would cause bolt shear. Additional leverage load is placed on the studs with spacers which can cause them to fatigue also.
Most people, including me, would still prefer to have a hub-crentric fitting however :approve:
I would also like to know anyone elses thoughts on this though as there are polarised debates everywhere ... I think the physics and engineering is the key thing to understand and I am only a leyman on this front ... Very interested in though and it seems to make sense to me ...
Out of interest I saw the front hub/disc setup on a 1000hp skyline for sale and it had no hub spigot just massive discs and bells and just the 5 studs holding the wheels on ... This was a JUN prepared vehicle ...
Martin
I must admit, I'm with you on this Martin. With out doubt, for piece of mind, hub centric is the way to go BUT.....I to have seen some pretty radical track cars that do not rely on the hub for support too. My Mini has 8 inch wide slicks fitted and would be under much much higher forces than anything with a road tread. However, I'm 100% sure thats fine for my Mini but I'm not sure for the Vee, so like I say, I'd fit hubcentric for peace of mind.
Yes Brett agreed ...
From my research it would appear the main issues are around stud failures are caused by the nuts/bolts being under tightend or over tightened i.e. not torqueing them correctly. A hub spigot seems to provide a certain amount of resiliance if a stud snaps or nuts are or work loose and the wheel to hub friction is therefore reduced.
Martin
From my research it would appear the main issues are around stud failures are caused by the nuts/bolts being under tightend or over tightened i.e. not torqueing them correctly. A hub spigot seems to provide a certain amount of resiliance if a stud snaps or nuts are or work loose and the wheel to hub friction is therefore reduced.
Martin
ddouble":33rgf3by said:i seem to remember reading the offset difference is 16mm. Which may require special order or modification to the spacer, but would be better as otherwise the wheels will sit in 6mm further than the 17's currently do.
look forward to seeing them on!!!
jealous!
I am not sure about 16mm mate, the wheel sits the same dist from the arch but obviously is wider, it looks fine but the tyre fouls the struts, I think that 10mm should be enough although I am worried now that they will still foul lol
hub centric or not if the load is not centralized with the hub then the first things to go wearing quicker are the bearings, I remember Vitara owners on Watchdog about 15 years ago claiming they were being being overtaken by their own Carlos Fandango style wheels on the motor way when the hubs sheared off... bet that was fun. Spacers seem to me like a short-cut way of getting the car to look a partuclar way.
Might be useful http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
MK 1 17" OZ
Offset Front ET 20
Offset Rear ET 50
Front: 7x17 in
Rear: 8.5x17 in
Mk 2 18" OZ
Offset Front ET 6
Offset Rear ET 68
Front: 7x18 in
Rear: 8.5x18 in
MK 1 17" OZ
Offset Front ET 20
Offset Rear ET 50
Front: 7x17 in
Rear: 8.5x17 in
Mk 2 18" OZ
Offset Front ET 6
Offset Rear ET 68
Front: 7x18 in
Rear: 8.5x18 in
Oldskoolbaby":2xkb0mv1 said:
Yes that's right, the offset is adjusted to make the wheel physically fit and clear obstructions but even if the offest is corrected to clear suspension the weight of the car sat on the wheels is directed further away from where it should be in most cases.
Even on a Ka owners choose to put a wider beam on the back or fit axle spacers rather than using hub spacers which are regarded as a short-cut bodge way of achieving a wide track or getting non standard wheels to fit for a certain 'look'.
10mm is not a large amount to space a wheel out especially if there are 5 longer wheel bolts mounting the wheel onto a solid spacer onto solid hub. If you started whacking 20-30mm spacers you will see the effects.
Look at the mk2 alloys inbuilt spacer compared to a mk1's and that was designed by professionals who dont bodge (well they do compared to the Germans lol)
Anyway 10mm is enough on the rear
James
Look at the mk2 alloys inbuilt spacer compared to a mk1's and that was designed by professionals who dont bodge (well they do compared to the Germans lol)
Anyway 10mm is enough on the rear
James
