Vag 1.8 head, block codes, and internals.

[Stone14]

So looking online for the best set.up to buy. I assumed the one with the most HP would be the best, that being a BAM or BFV. But reading comments in chatrooms most are saying buy and AEB engine and swap with an AWP block. No mention of BAM or BFV.

I understand the AEB has the biggest ports of all useable heads, ive read the AWP block is installed with all forged parts, is this correct? Then I assume BAM and BFV hasnt?

Edit: also read that stock forged pistons are still not much better than cast and are not made for high level use, not as good as aftermarket forged pistons, so I'd have to buy new forged internals anyway.

What about the crank? Is an after market worth buying, or even swapping the stock crank with another? If so then what?

TIA

 

[Duncan Grier]

While the k04 out of the box engines maybe a touch more expensive but with bolt on upgrades you do get your circa upto 270bhp

Need to look but I used a lesser 150bhp spec but dbw version in my old 5. Sure one weakness was smaller gudgen pins but never missed a beat with k04 retro fitted. I think the dbw is better also and not really convinced you gain much with the older big port option.

Big question is what you want power/usage wise?

Lastly the 5 speed box (bolt in shafts) fits without too much bother 6 speed needs more work, sure it fits but a far bigger box for ref

 

[Stone14]

While the k04 out of the box engines maybe a touch more expensive but with bolt on upgrades you do get your circa upto 270bhp

Need to look but I used a lesser 150bhp spec but dbw version in my old 5. Sure one weakness was smaller gudgen pins but never missed a beat with k04 retro fitted. I think the dbw is better also and not really convinced you gain much with the older big port option.

Big question is what you want power/usage wise?

Lastly the 5 speed box (bolt in shafts) fits without too much bother 6 speed needs more work, sure it fits but a far bigger box for ref

Which ones take the 5 speed? I've not looked into gearboxes yet, I did see it mentioned about the golf engines having hydraulic clutches. I'm not surehow that affects the buiod yet, its it needs removed or what..

 

[Renny 5]

I built a mk2 golf 16v turbo which shared many parts with the 1.8t. Majority of the engines used 144x20 Conrods (20mm wrist/gudgen pin) and only afew we’re 144x19 (19mm wrist pin) like @Duncan Grier your not gunna break owt like that but if you were worried you could swap the pistons and rods over to the larger wrist pin anyway. Your not gunna break a crankshaft unless your running 600/700bhp.

Again, like Duncan said… use the 5 speed box (02J) there’s millions of them around and cheap as chips. Also use mk2 golf g60 flywheel and a VR6 clutch to keep costs down. If your gunna go for big power but want to keep the 5speed box then I suggest you fit a pinion brace. They’re about £100 and can be fitted easily. They stop the input shaft from spreading the gearbox apart when your running a lot of torque. If you can get the earlier gearbox (with a speedo drive) then you can more or less fit the speedo cable straight into the box, that’s if your using a base model Renault 5 and not a gtt.

Regarding engine codes you would be better off going for an earlier engine that comes without dbw! Engines like AGU use a throttle cable and will make your job a lot easier. Also you’ll Have more chance winning the lottery than finding a BFV as they only came out of a special edition Audi TT that they made very few of.

 

[Stone14]

I built a mk2 golf 16v turbo which shared many parts with the 1.8t. Majority of the engines used 144x20 Conrods (20mm wrist/gudgen pin) and only afew we’re 144x19 (19mm wrist pin) like @Duncan Grier your not gunna break owt like that but if you were worried you could swap the pistons and rods over to the larger wrist pin anyway. Your not gunna break a crankshaft unless your running 600/700bhp.

Again, like Duncan said… use the 5 speed box (02J) there’s millions of them around and cheap as chips. Also use mk2 golf g60 flywheel and a VR6 clutch to keep costs down. If your gunna go for big power but want to keep the 5speed box then I suggest you fit a pinion brace. They’re about £100 and can be fitted easily. They stop the input shaft from spreading the gearbox apart when your running a lot of torque. If you can get the earlier gearbox (with a speedo drive) then you can more or less fit the speedo cable straight into the box, that’s if your using a base model Renault 5 and not a gtt.

Regarding engine codes you would be better off going for an earlier engine that comes without dbw! Engines like AGU use a throttle cable and will make your job a lot easier. Also you’ll Have more chance winning the lottery than finding a BFV as they only came out of a special edition Audi TT that they made very few of.

I'll be doing a full engine rebuild so other than the cylinder head aeb with bigger ports, the internals being stock forged or not probably wont matter to me as they will be getting aftermarket replaced. I'm not sure how the turbo is affected though between vag variations

 

[Duncan Grier]

Yep what @Renny 5 covers sound advice. Bk in the day dbw and oem ecu worked well but as it was circa 14 years ago sure other options well documented

As I had mentioned before I had to change fd to vr6 as it was too short ratio...lsd at the same time

You need to either convert the 5 to hydraulic or box to cable. I did the later with 5 soft pedal ratio to help with uprated clutch and iirc oem part off an ibiza for box

 

[Renny 5]

Why bother about port size when it’s a boosted engine?? If your going to the lengths of spending that much money there’s no point keeping the original turbo manifold?? You’d be better off going tubular manifold with t25 or t3 flange and then you can have any turbo setup you want.

 

[Renny 5]

@Duncan Grier I was gunna use this in my mk2 golf but ended up being given a Passat pedal box which was straight bolt in but yeah, dunc is right… this would be the easiest way and keep your original pedal box

 

[Stone14]

While the k04 out of the box engines maybe a touch more expensive but with bolt on upgrades you do get your circa upto 270bhp

Need to look but I used a lesser 150bhp spec but dbw version in my old 5. Sure one weakness was smaller gudgen pins but never missed a beat with k04 retro fitted. I think the dbw is better also and not really convinced you gain much with the older big port option.

Big question is what you want power/usage wise?

Lastly the 5 speed box (bolt in shafts) fits without too much bother 6 speed needs more work, sure it fits but a far bigger box for ref

Looking online regarding ko4 turbo upgrades, AET brand say the ko4 is suited to small port heads not large ports. If that's the best turbo for the job then I'd probably accept that there's no need for a large port head as well as your opinion that you doubt there's a benefit.

So now it seems a smallport headed VAG is the better option with a ko4 turbo. This badger company has a AET hybrid ko4 380 boasting 300-350bhp with adequate internal engine mods.

K04-380 hybrid K04 package ( aet K04-380, V2. 2 tip)(special order)

Chinafold no longer sold in this package

badger5.co.uk

 

[Stone14]

While the k04 out of the box engines maybe a touch more expensive but with bolt on upgrades you do get your circa upto 270bhp

Need to look but I used a lesser 150bhp spec but dbw version in my old 5. Sure one weakness was smaller gudgen pins but never missed a beat with k04 retro fitted. I think the dbw is better also and not really convinced you gain much with the older big port option.

Big question is what you want power/usage wise?

Lastly the 5 speed box (bolt in shafts) fits without too much bother 6 speed needs more work, sure it fits but a far bigger box for ref

And I take it bam is small port?

 

[Stone14]

Why bother about port size when it’s a boosted engine?? If your going to the lengths of spending that much money there’s no point keeping the original turbo manifold?? You’d be better off going tubular manifold with t25 or t3 flange and then you can have any turbo setup you want.

Yeah true.

 

[Renny 5]

@Duncan Grier on your R5 1.8t build could you actually fit the your intake pipe and exhaust downpipe as they are in a vw or did you have to turn your turbo around to fit it in properly?? Obviously on vw’s the intake faces the drives side and exhaust face the passenger side?? On turbo Renaults these are the opposite way because of how close the strut towers are.

 

[Duncan Grier]

Would have to dig a pic out but other than very small bit of bulkhead tweak k04 std fitted no issues and custom downpipe from audi turbo to stock r5 exhaust. Intake and turbo inlet/tb both on right standing in front of car

May have changed vag inlet to suit of longitude or other trasnverse option cant remember tbh