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Tyres
- Thread starter Scou5er
- Start date
The phase 1 came with ps1s from new.
I couldn't find pilot supersports in the correct OEM sizes when i looked for replacements, so i went with ps3's. If i could of found super sports i would of gone for them.
I still have the two front ps1s, in great nick, but i don't have a lot of trust in driving on a 12/13 year old tyre!
I couldn't find pilot supersports in the correct OEM sizes when i looked for replacements, so i went with ps3's. If i could of found super sports i would of gone for them.
I still have the two front ps1s, in great nick, but i don't have a lot of trust in driving on a 12/13 year old tyre!
Is OEM not what the car was designed to run on?
Why would anyone want to deviate from that specification?
I assume its because wider tyres offer more grip... (faster track times) I don't think the car needs more grip, its modest power levels and weight over the back wheels mean its very rare to overcome the tyres with corner and acceleration speeds.
It would be more fun with more power and less grip....! As close to OEM as possible for me. :approve:
Thats why I insist, I am all for improvement if you have reason why wider tyres will benefit my enjoyment of the car? :approve:
Why would anyone want to deviate from that specification?
I assume its because wider tyres offer more grip... (faster track times) I don't think the car needs more grip, its modest power levels and weight over the back wheels mean its very rare to overcome the tyres with corner and acceleration speeds.
It would be more fun with more power and less grip....! As close to OEM as possible for me. :approve:
Thats why I insist, I am all for improvement if you have reason why wider tyres will benefit my enjoyment of the car? :approve:
Why not put Nankangs on all round if you want low speed sideways action then? I ran 225s and 255s Bridgestones and the car felt much better and was very well balanced. Thought this thread was for improving the grip levels? Benefits of fitting a wider tyre is you can increase grip without going for cut slick type tyre which means should you wish to drive in the wet, you still can do confidently. OEM sometimes isnt the best option when it comes to production cars. There are always constraints when they design carst whether it be financialy or what they are allowed to do on a production line. Hence the reason the v6 was never fitted with a decent exhaust like spikes set up.
225s and 255s do not rub neither inner or outer arches.not on mine anyway.
225s and 255s do not rub neither inner or outer arches.not on mine anyway.
I can see the logic in not wanting to make the car non challenging or fun to drive but upping the tyre size doesn't do that. Well not for me anyway. I suppose its a personal thing. The fact of the matter is, Renault didn't get it completly correct anyway. If they did there wouldnt be so many ditch found cars floating about from both Ph1 and 2. They fit what they can, not what they want.
Food for thought. If you do up the tyre size to 225/255 it increases the cars foot print by over 9% equally around the car ie from 880mm to 960mm. I'm not saying that gives you nearly 10% more cornering speed but the maths nearly puts it into perspective as opposed to saying x tyre is this good compared to z tire in this range.
Food for thought. If you do up the tyre size to 225/255 it increases the cars foot print by over 9% equally around the car ie from 880mm to 960mm. I'm not saying that gives you nearly 10% more cornering speed but the maths nearly puts it into perspective as opposed to saying x tyre is this good compared to z tire in this range.
Samwilde681
New Member
I asked my very clever bro about this subject (he is an engineer) he suggested I read this.. may or may not be of interest
http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=330790
http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=330790
To be honest Sam 95% of that makes perfect sense. HOWEVER only if you were sitting in a class room with no abnormalities being thrown at a tyre and it constantly sitting perfectly on the road surface. Hence the reason road cars have negative camber at each corner and drag cars have zero.
The psi put upon the contact area of wider tyres is obviously lowered and the operating temperature lowered very slightly. Lets face it, we are talking about road/track day tyres here that have a large/ish windows to work best at so its all theory and no practice when it comes to a physics class. If it was a simple as putting pen to paper and working out equations then race teams would spend about a 10th of what they do with testing.
I'm currently looking to compete my Mini in a Special Saloon car championship that is alongside Modsports and thunder saloons. They are extremely lightweight cars for what they are and if you rolled up with a physics book showing those equations they'd laugh and carry on fitting their 15 inch+ wide slicks. Take this Reliant kitten for instance......
That's the rule book ripped up right there! Lol Probably under 2 3rds the weight of a vee but with 4 times as much tyre. Not sure if 165/60/15 will best suit it thinking about it though?? :rofl: :rofl:
The psi put upon the contact area of wider tyres is obviously lowered and the operating temperature lowered very slightly. Lets face it, we are talking about road/track day tyres here that have a large/ish windows to work best at so its all theory and no practice when it comes to a physics class. If it was a simple as putting pen to paper and working out equations then race teams would spend about a 10th of what they do with testing.
I'm currently looking to compete my Mini in a Special Saloon car championship that is alongside Modsports and thunder saloons. They are extremely lightweight cars for what they are and if you rolled up with a physics book showing those equations they'd laugh and carry on fitting their 15 inch+ wide slicks. Take this Reliant kitten for instance......
That's the rule book ripped up right there! Lol Probably under 2 3rds the weight of a vee but with 4 times as much tyre. Not sure if 165/60/15 will best suit it thinking about it though?? :rofl: :rofl:
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In the only objective(ish) test that I've come across: Michelin sport tyres offered superior dry-weather performance over the rivals.
On that basis - the OEM branded tyre is ideal for the recreational/summer Vee user.
On the other hand, if my Vee was a daily driver - I'd probably look for a cheaper alternative with enhanced wet weather performance.
On that basis - the OEM branded tyre is ideal for the recreational/summer Vee user.
On the other hand, if my Vee was a daily driver - I'd probably look for a cheaper alternative with enhanced wet weather performance.
What is it you want from the tyre Rob? You describe it as a summer set. Do you mean you want something much more focused on dry weather, highly spirited driving where grip is everything or do you want something that is pretty normal ie OEM?
Honestly, I can't believe people opt for the under tyre option. It's the best of 3 worlds. More dry weather grip, still great in the wet and the wheel arches are filled more which all OEM vee's lack in. Am I missing something? :ihatpcs:
Honestly, I can't believe people opt for the under tyre option. It's the best of 3 worlds. More dry weather grip, still great in the wet and the wheel arches are filled more which all OEM vee's lack in. Am I missing something? :ihatpcs:
I guess for me its this chase for perfection, faster, better, grippier. For me the clio is not about that. If thats what I wanted i would buy a GT3 Cup car on slicks with every upgrade going and measure my performance on each outing, or in other words go racing.
If I started looking for the grippiest tyres for the clio I would buy those legal cut slick things, but then I would need Ohlins suspension because no matter how good the tyres are they are more efficient when stuck to the ground via amazing dampers.
Then I rip the body panels off as they are cosmetic and weigh too much, put carbon fibre wheels on it, a sequential gearbox as it changes much faster than the rubbish OEM unit, the seats would go because they are dreadful, the engine puts out a dismal amount of power so out with that.... etc... etc.... The little nut job renault road car would be destroyed in favour of a one off road racer that will never succeed in realising my thirst for perfection and speed because its the wrong platform to start with.
I bought the clio V6 as I like it is for what it is, its not a racing car, I'm sure I could make it get around a corner quicker but I'm not timing it so whats the point. I'm not really disagreeing with you as I often feel that way and have to pull myself back and say to myself if you want to turn the clio into something else then either buy a trophy car or a platform more suitable for the chase for perfection than a compromised but fun french hatchback.
If i was racing and wanted to be competitive then I would be the first in the line for non oem upgrades, as it stands i enjoy the car how it is as a interesting road car and enjoy it for what it is rather than what it isn't .
:approve:
If I started looking for the grippiest tyres for the clio I would buy those legal cut slick things, but then I would need Ohlins suspension because no matter how good the tyres are they are more efficient when stuck to the ground via amazing dampers.
Then I rip the body panels off as they are cosmetic and weigh too much, put carbon fibre wheels on it, a sequential gearbox as it changes much faster than the rubbish OEM unit, the seats would go because they are dreadful, the engine puts out a dismal amount of power so out with that.... etc... etc.... The little nut job renault road car would be destroyed in favour of a one off road racer that will never succeed in realising my thirst for perfection and speed because its the wrong platform to start with.
I bought the clio V6 as I like it is for what it is, its not a racing car, I'm sure I could make it get around a corner quicker but I'm not timing it so whats the point. I'm not really disagreeing with you as I often feel that way and have to pull myself back and say to myself if you want to turn the clio into something else then either buy a trophy car or a platform more suitable for the chase for perfection than a compromised but fun french hatchback.
If i was racing and wanted to be competitive then I would be the first in the line for non oem upgrades, as it stands i enjoy the car how it is as a interesting road car and enjoy it for what it is rather than what it isn't .
:approve:
It is wise to advise your insurers if you change the tyres from that of the original sizes. Failure to do so could invalidate a claim.
I also own a couple of 205 GTi's and it is very popular for the tyres to be changed for a 195 spec tyre for that of the original 185 spec as they are cheaper and more readily available. My cars are standard but I do know of other owners that had issues with their insurers when they advised of the change.
Food for thought...
I also own a couple of 205 GTi's and it is very popular for the tyres to be changed for a 195 spec tyre for that of the original 185 spec as they are cheaper and more readily available. My cars are standard but I do know of other owners that had issues with their insurers when they advised of the change.
Food for thought...
rustedandrotten
Well-Known Member
Also non original sizes can bu99er up your speedometer reading, beware!AndyD":38pveuk6 said:
As always, tyres have proved an interesting conversation topic. 
For this:
See this:
You will get recommendations based on experience, but when all’s said and done it comes down to what you personally want out of a tyre. There are so many variables that’s it’s very hard to advise. For instance, if it’s just dry weather, fast road and occasional track use then any sort of jack of all trades tyre isn’t going to be the best option. It’d be better opting for a track day-leaning tyre (R888, Federal 595RSR, Yokohama A048R etc). However these can be classed as a compromise, as they compromise cold/damp/wet performance in favour of excellent dry performance.
Also, due to the vees rather unique handling characteristics, more grip vs less grip shouldn’t really be the argument. It’s the progression from having grip to not having grip that’s the real key.
For this:
Scou5er":1ull3elp said:
See this:
Oldskoolbaby":1ull3elp said:
You will get recommendations based on experience, but when all’s said and done it comes down to what you personally want out of a tyre. There are so many variables that’s it’s very hard to advise. For instance, if it’s just dry weather, fast road and occasional track use then any sort of jack of all trades tyre isn’t going to be the best option. It’d be better opting for a track day-leaning tyre (R888, Federal 595RSR, Yokohama A048R etc). However these can be classed as a compromise, as they compromise cold/damp/wet performance in favour of excellent dry performance.
Whilst I think I get your point Matt, there’s a big difference between wanting the best tyres for a particular set of preferences/circumstances vs all-out modifying.matt.v10":1ull3elp said:
Also, due to the vees rather unique handling characteristics, more grip vs less grip shouldn’t really be the argument. It’s the progression from having grip to not having grip that’s the real key.
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