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Top mounts and dampers

phil b

New Member
I have recently noticed a slight knock when pulling out of my drive while on full lock and a slight vagueness at higher speeds in the steering. So i got the car up on the ramp and noticed play in the top mounts. I also checked the dampers and they are starting to corrode a bit. Popped into Renaults for some prices and discovered the top mount come in individual parts. Can i just replace the bushes or do i need to replace the whole assembly. The parts include some kind of sleeve that fits on the top of the strut. Does this need replacing? I aslo saw k-Tec do a replacement uprated version. Are they worth it or should i stick to renault ones.

The dampers will work out about £200 a piece so is it worth looking at uprated ones. Had a look for other makes but cant find any that i can just get for the front. Has anyone sourced any other makes?

Fortunately ball joints and wishbones are all fine!!

Thanks for the input [smilie=yay.gif]
 
As for the top mounts, if they are original they will have had it, they are stupid money but are available for one of the other models at a more modest price. am not sure without doing a search on here but i think the clio cup ones fit but do not come with the correct spacers, i will try to find out but do a search on here as i am sure i posted it. james may remember.
 
If you like to replace the top mounts with solids ones, have a search. I'm not sure about the K-tec, maybe under engineered a bit and may need to be replaced every year - at least that was my understanding.
I've top mounts from Mark Fish - expensive but robust and no negative impact on ride quality. Best upgrade so far.
 
Hmmmm. After some reading i think i am going to stick with renault bits as i dont want to put stress on other parts or start rattling the solid renault interior!!!
 
teun":j05pxwe4 said:
If you like to replace the top mounts with solids ones, have a search. I'm not sure about the K-tec, maybe under engineered a bit and may need to be replaced every year - at least that was my understanding.
I've top mounts from Mark Fish - expensive but robust and no negative impact on ride quality. Best upgrade so far.

Rough estimate?
 
V6 2HOT":17wlpoj1 said:
Ali":17wlpoj1 said:
I've just replaced top mounts with OEM parts. Were £100 iirc! Not that bad!

It might sound silly but where did u get them from? Direct from renault?

Stephen off the forum. RenaultParts.

Although he did send the wrong part in first instance. Give him a bell, he'll be able to confirm what he sent me! (Old boys been doing all the work)
 
Ali":2pc3f817 said:
V6 2HOT":2pc3f817 said:
Ali":2pc3f817 said:
I've just replaced top mounts with OEM parts. Were £100 iirc! Not that bad!

It might sound silly but where did u get them from? Direct from renault?

Stephen off the forum. RenaultParts.

Although he did send the wrong part in first instance. Give him a bell, he'll be able to confirm what he sent me! (Old boys been doing all the work)

Thanks mate.
 
Sorry if this sounds like i'm being thick.. but the top mounts you speak of, are these the cup type things on top of the front suspension struts?


:primer: :primer: :primer: :primer: :primer: :primer: :primer: :primer: :primer: :salut:
 
Thanks Ali, bearings? Really? I thought they were little more than are large cupped washer with a rubber bit in there as well somewhere, then the nut screwed down onto the top of the strut, no? :/
 
Williams":2a9w75pg said:
Thanks Ali, bearings? Really? I thought they were little more than are large cupped washer with a rubber bit in there as well somewhere, then the nut screwed down onto the top of the strut, no? :/
Shaun, you are quite right, to look at these look simple but underneath it full of dark secrets and magic, the bearing is a small flat bit that looks like a big washer, this supports the weight of the front end and allows the wheels to turn easily. remembering that when the wheels are turned the whole of the suspension inc the spring turns as well, the only part that remains static is the damper rod. Sometimes problems here can be viewed by getting your pal to turn the steering from lock to lock, whilst you observe the round cup tops, if these are turning you have the start of problems as it will quickly wear the rubbers.
 
Right. Finally got a chance to do the top mounts this morning and the old ones were well and truly shot. The car feels like new now with no vagueness and no more knocking. I am now a happy bunny and looking forward to a nice drive tomorrow [smilie=yay.gif]

Thanks for the advice guys.

Phil
 
SPIKE":35wgucjq said:
Williams":35wgucjq said:
Thanks Ali, bearings? Really? I thought they were little more than are large cupped washer with a rubber bit in there as well somewhere, then the nut screwed down onto the top of the strut, no? :/
Shaun, you are quite right, to look at these look simple but underneath it full of dark secrets and magic, the bearing is a small flat bit that looks like a big washer, this supports the weight of the front end and allows the wheels to turn easily. remembering that when the wheels are turned the whole of the suspension inc the spring turns as well, the only part that remains static is the damper rod. Sometimes problems here can be viewed by getting your pal to turn the steering from lock to lock, whilst you observe the round cup tops, if these are turning you have the start of problems as it will quickly wear the rubbers.

Thanks Spike.. :) Beautifully explained as ever :approve:
 
I'm glad there's people like SPIKE to explain in laymens terms, I haven't got a bloody clue half the time :approve:
 
Phil, how difficult are these to replace? and what parts did you get in the end?

I've got a knocking/squeaking at low speed and think I may need to do this work.
 
thunderstarter":2y9mg7x5 said:
Phil, how difficult are these to replace? and what parts did you get in the end?

I've got a knocking/squeaking at low speed and think I may need to do this work.


Sorry mate. For some reason i don't get notification that people have posted. It was quite an easy job the hardest being getting the bloody car on a ramp. Once the wheels are removed you need to undo the anti roll bar which has a tricky nut to undo as you have to clamp it and undo the bolt which was quite tough and the same to put it back on. The two lower damper bolts come off easy. You then also need to undo the top strut nut . I did one strut at a time making sure i knew which way everything comes off. I only replaced the big donught, bearring and one other part following scott's advise. I will pm you the part numbers. The parts for both sides cost me about £110.

Phil
 
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