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Renault R19 Stalls! Please help

trajik

New Member
Hi guys

i have a bit of a problem.

I have purchased a renault 19 about a week ago. Its in very good nick, 1.7ltr auto. Its just started to turn off when in traffic or parked whilst on. I adjusted the idle to rev at 1000rpm to try stop it from turning off.

The motor runs perfectly nothing wrong with it at all free revs and drive fine its only when idling in traffic the revs will drop from 1000rpm to 400rpm and straight back up to 1000rpm it will almost stall and sometimes does!



Ive done the following:

- New oil and oil filter
- Brand new fuel filter old one was in good nick
- New spark plugs
- Cleaned throttle body out was clean not much came out
- New coolant and bled the system
- De greased the engine bay and also used electrical connection spray to clean all electric connections just incase one was dirty and causing the problem.
- Replaced distributor cap with new genuine part

Still the same thing happens.

ALSO..

In the relay box there is a relay that is ticking very loudly and is very warm where as the others are cool. I dont know what the relay is for but when i unplugged the relay the wiring to it was still ticking/pulsing? Does anyone know what that means?

Ive added a picture of the relay its the furthest to the right can anyone tell me what its for?

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks

img.photobucket.com_albums_v499_vl2dy4_261d1688.webp
 
I could hear something from the relay box it ticks so loud. I placed my fingers on the relay it was going tick tick tttttiktik tick etc same happened when i removed the relay the wiring to that relay was still doing it.
 
My guess would be that your Lambda sensor is causing your stalling/hesitation/bogging down issues.

That or your coolant temperature sensor.
 
its the only one that ticks/pulses and im 100% sure of that

does anyone know what that relay is for?

Thanks
 
the 4 relays you have there, fuel pump, ecu power, cooling fan and the other will be for the auto box or a/c depends on the wiring revisions tbh, they vary year to year
 
I thought it was only the 16V that has a relay for the cooling fan.. Haynes could be wrong on that, though - wouldn't be the first time ;)
 
Thanks guys well had it at the auto electricians and he thinks the earth to the ecu is dodgy so fixed that and some terminals had corrosion on them on the ecu apparently so he cleaned that up but still doing it. Could be that the ecu is now shorted out and might need replacing is there a way to test the ecu and where do i find a replacement txe 1.7 auto 92 ecu im from australia?
 
spark plug gaps? my kia is mucking about at present, which could be the plug gaps apparently, and mine was running perfectly before i serviced it
 
amazing how often people just replace the lambda when theres nothing wrong with them.

The ECU will be fine most likely its rarely the ecu.

you need to do proper checks before throwing money at it. Check the coolant sensor outputs, what relay is it thats ticking?
 
I thought it was only the 16V that has a relay for the cooling fan.. Haynes could be wrong on that, though - wouldn't be the first time ;)

ac equipped cars have the fan relay (in Australia I would assume they all had ac) but some have them some 16V's don't, the plug isn't even there, just depends on the wiring revision.

Or thats the case in my experience anyway
 
In my oppinion They don't cost a fortune and there consumable , could even get second hand coolant and lambda sensor off eBay if your skint, and try them,it's more likely one of theses faults
And then go from there
 
Thanks for your input guys i appreciate it.

The gap on the plugs is 0.8

What voltage should coolant sensor read if in working order?

Ill try get my hands on a lambda sensor


The relay furthest to the right in the picture is ticking does anyone know if thats ac, gearbox or ecu relax?
 
coolant sensor will just read a 5v reference voltage, you really need to check its resistance. However they generally fail in a way that means they read fine then get to a certain temp and read a dramatically different temp then go back to normal.

For example smooth curve up to 60 degrees, then at 61 degrees it reads -40 engine will usually stop or it will stutter through then as the temp sender has heated up to read 62 degrees its back to normal. Unplugging the sensor defaults to warmed up temp in the mid 80's. Try that see if its better.

You need to trace the wiring to see what it is, often they are not the same vehicle to vehicle.
 
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