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Rear torsion bar removal

Hannu

Member
So, I've tried my biggest lump hammer and best long metal spike pole (3 foot long by 1 inch dia, with a point at one end) and ... nothing. No movement :(

This is on the car that has stood for 12 years so they are well siezed in the splines.

I've no heat to apply so may have to cut the chassis rails to get the complete rear suspension off.

Any suggestions?
 
Instead of heat, how about freezing the torsion bar? My usual motor factors have started selling an aerosol can of freezing spray (probably only butane propellant gas) for use on stubborn nuts and bolts. Might be worth a punt?

If you're feeling especially brave, I suppose you could upscale the idea with a length of rubber tube, a pair of stout gloves and a calor gas canister...
 
ok, you can knock the rear torsion bars both ways, in and out of the vehicle. i used a long breaker bar and a club hammer. if you are pushing the bar out, so it pops through hole in the sill, then the slightly rounded end of the breaker bar can help get to the torsion bar over the rear arm.

i also sprayed mine with realeasing fluid - not wd40 everyday for about 4 or 5 days beforehand.

i also hit the torsion bar from both ends to get it moving.

i also have a small Go-Gas gun from B&Q - one of the best things i have ever bought. i use this to heat up one end of the torsion bar.

the freeze sprays are ok, they are very penetrating lubricant too... but i found they arent as good as heat...
 
I've just done 4 torsion bars today, 2 were in a removed axle and were really rusted in. I had previously wd40ed it and using a bit of 7/8ths round mild with a small blunt point on it, I belted the bars with a large sledge hammer. You cant mess about with lump hammers when they are as seized as mine (and yours). Make sure you have the drift lined up on some bits of wood, its not really a job for someone else holding, in case you miss!
Contrastingly the ones on my auto could almost be pushed out with a little ballpein hammer. Good luck.
 
After soaking mine for weeks with a good penetrating fluid, they still refused to budge even with vicious blows from a three pound sledge hammer.

Then I grabbed my air hammer and replaced its usual chisel attachment with something that looked like a huge center punch. (Ground down a bit to fit in the center hole of the bar.) In a few seconds both bars were out.

Chris
 
Oh.

So sorry, I didn't get the meaning of "SDS drill". (I speak fluent Yank, but I'm not so good with the King's English.....) :)

Chris
 
:lol: :lol: :lol: I dont know what SDS is either :lol: :lol: :lol:

I have one but I dont know what SDS means.It is a drill that spins like a normal drill or you can flick a switch and it is like a road drill.
 
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