Re-fitting valves to a head

[Guest]

Anyone got any quick tips?

Never done it before, didn't find removing the valves particularly difficult, so is there anything i look out for when i re-fit them? Everything is getting de-coked whilst the head is in bits.

Anything i can do to 'refurb' the tappets?

 

[Guest]

you need to relap the valves, but otherwise its pretty straight forward, refitting the collets can be annoying. best method i have heard of and done is to use a small flatbladed screwdriver regularly dipped in grease to stick the collets to while your putting them on. remember to grease the inside of the collets too so they will then stick to the valve.

 

[Guest]

Good tips, thanks.

Can you give me a simple explanation of how to effectively lap the valves to get the best seal?

 

[Guest]

go to halfords and get a valve lapping kit, £3.99,
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165469
then use a wire brush in a drill to clean up the valve faces, if you havent done this already, you need to do this to get a good seal from the rubber suction pad.

turn the head upside down (combustion chamber facing up) and put all the valves in the head, just slot them in no springs or anything yet.

then use the coarse paste and wipe a small amount on the lip of the valve where it meets the head, and stick the rubber sucker to the valve face. put the valve back in place and use the stick like you are trying to light a fire using wood. if you get me. do this a couple of times then go onto the fine past, make sure you wipe all the residue away. and keep at it till the valve lip and the section of the head that it meets is nice and shiney with no pitting hope that helps.

 

[Guest]

spot on that Harvy!!

 

[Guest]

 

[Guest]

 

[Guest]

Cheers for the pics Matt, very useful. Looks like you have to use a lot of paste then?

I'm getting the valves dipped in a de-coking cocktail so hopefully they should be all nice and shiny when i get them back.

 

[Guest]

Dont Use too much paste, keep it away from the valve stems otherwise you'll need new guides quickly! Basically when grinding them in youll hear The abrasion material "grinding" as such when it goes you need a little more, when the seat looks even start on the Fine paste, you should end up with a matte finish seat which is even all the way around with no pitting,
It Takes a Fair while to do all 16 valves, so dont think its a half hour job, if it is your going too quickly! However Valves that are used are not as bad as new ones to grind in!
Make sure you wash away all the Paste before you refit the valves and springs etc in final assembly

 

[Guest]

Cheers, will do.

 

[Alta Vista [Bot]]

and then test them all too..

 

[Guest]

With diesel i'm guessing?

Matteh, where did you get your spring compressor from?

Need to get one but some of them don't go 'deep' enough in the top of the head to meet the top of the valve/spring thing

 

[Guest]

I used paraffin, but I understand diesel works the same way...

I got my spring compressor from a motorfactors... just look for a 16v one as they're normally a bit deeper

 

[Guest]

i have one from halfords, the cheap ones wont do, this one is the one i have,

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165469

works fine.

 

[Guest]

Nice, i'll go grab one of those.

 

[Guest]

I've got a set of brand new tappets I'm getting rid of if you're interested :wink: