Duncan Grier
Well-Known Member
That is cheap, interested in the quality if you don't mind updating us all
Some paces do get very silly in their margins
DG
Some paces do get very silly in their margins
DG
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19 Project Turbo Shed - sponsored by Bosch PWS850-125
Duncan Grier
Well-Known Member
Ok they do balance, heat treat and powdercoat
Still cheap enough to take the hit worst comes to worst
Still cheap enough to take the hit worst comes to worst
Duncan Grier
Well-Known Member
Quality is A1 and do a lot of motorsport supply.
Could be more than you need
DG
Could be more than you need
DG
Neal R19
Well-Known Member
Couple more little jobs done this weekend.
First up the throttle pedal. The 19 just has a very simple mechanical pedal to pull a cable
photo from the foot well of my 16V... exactly the same
The 225 of course has drive-by-wire with a throttle pot and a funny linkage arrangement. God (or the French) only knows why.
So one option was to mount the 225 pot somewhere remote and use the 19 cable to operate it, the other option was to fit the pedal directly to the pot and mount it right there by your foot. I chose the latter so some bodgery was required to get that working.
Rummaged around in the scrap bin and found the remains of the original 19 pedal box. Attacked it and the megane pedal with the grinder for a bit and welded them together.
This then gets slaved onto a couple of the servo studs. I got the potentiometer pivot as close as possible to the position of the original 19 pedal's pivot.
Then of course I needed an actual pedal. Chopped up the one I got with the RX4 pedal box and boshed that on too.
Left everything just tacked in case I need to tweak the pedal position later.
It could use a bit more bracing side to side so next time I have the pedal box out (which needs the engine to come out) I'll make a little bracket on the pedal box to do that.
Then as another little fill in job I thought I'd sort out the steering rack to go back on. Boots were shot.
Cut em off and cleaned it up as best I could ('could' as in 'could be bothered')
No detectable play in either of the track rods so that's nice.
The worked in a load of grease and slapped on some nice new boots.
Good to go
First up the throttle pedal. The 19 just has a very simple mechanical pedal to pull a cable
photo from the foot well of my 16V... exactly the same
The 225 of course has drive-by-wire with a throttle pot and a funny linkage arrangement. God (or the French) only knows why.
So one option was to mount the 225 pot somewhere remote and use the 19 cable to operate it, the other option was to fit the pedal directly to the pot and mount it right there by your foot. I chose the latter so some bodgery was required to get that working.
Rummaged around in the scrap bin and found the remains of the original 19 pedal box. Attacked it and the megane pedal with the grinder for a bit and welded them together.
This then gets slaved onto a couple of the servo studs. I got the potentiometer pivot as close as possible to the position of the original 19 pedal's pivot.
Then of course I needed an actual pedal. Chopped up the one I got with the RX4 pedal box and boshed that on too.
Left everything just tacked in case I need to tweak the pedal position later.
It could use a bit more bracing side to side so next time I have the pedal box out (which needs the engine to come out) I'll make a little bracket on the pedal box to do that.
Then as another little fill in job I thought I'd sort out the steering rack to go back on. Boots were shot.
Cut em off and cleaned it up as best I could ('could' as in 'could be bothered')
No detectable play in either of the track rods so that's nice.
The worked in a load of grease and slapped on some nice new boots.
Good to go
Last edited:
DaveL485
Staff member
For cleaning rack joints and stuff like that out, I use a high pressure (~100psi) air line attached to a parrafin spray bottle like the one below, full of brake cleaner. It cleans shit off like you would not believe! Wear goggles though as it stings your eyes! Also, VERY FLAMMABLE so keep away from...well...everything!
Clarke Paraffin Spray Gun - 26C - Machine Mart - Machine Mart
Clarke Paraffin Spray Gun - 26C - Machine Mart - Machine Mart
DaveL485
Staff member
Ah! Thats a small flaw in the plan then!Nice. I don't have a compressor though
Neal R19
Well-Known Member
Nothing much happening recently as I've been on holiday. Came back two weeks ago and now can't be bothered to do anything that involves going outside.
I have been trying to get the fuel system sorted though.
Since this 19 had a carbed engine, it had no electric fuel pump. The tank is also different to fuel injected 19s, not even capable of taking a fuel pump with the housing from a fuel injected 19. The one hole in the top is for the fuel level sender.
carby tank:
So I found a good second hand tank from a 16V which has the extra hole for a fuel pump. It also has a bowl/baffles inside which the non-FI tank doesn't have.
injecty tank:
The meg 225 like virtually all modern cars has a plastic tank and there’s just one hole for a single unit which houses the fuel pump, fuel filter, a swirl pot, fuel level sender and 3.5bar pressure regulator all integrated in one unit.
Typically, this unit is too big to fit through the hole in the 19’s tank (that would be too easy) so more modding required to fit a non-return fuel system to this tank. The megane setup still has a regulator and therefore a return. It’s just that the regulator is inside sender inside the tank, so the ‘returned’ fuel never actually leaves the tank. But it’s non-return in that there’s only one line to the fuel rail.
So I busted the megane sender apart to get the actual fuel pump out. Quite a bit smaller than the 19 16V pump (on the right)
The megane pump is the same form factor as a 'standard' Walbro GSS342 style pump, so a couple of quid on ebay bought a fitting kit with accessories that fit the megane pump. Using bits from this kit and some pieces of plastic cut from the remains of the megane sender casing, I got the megane pump in the 19 16V pump cradle and got the filter sock fitted.
Changed the wiring over to suit the megane pump
Next I needed to regulate the fuel to 3.5bar as per the megane setup. So tee in a 3.5bar fuel pressure regulator into the feed line somewhere between the fuel pump and the fuel rail. So either put the regulator in the engine bay and use a return line back to the tank, or put the reg inside the tank - converting to a ‘non return’ system. Since I’m running the OE management which depends on 3.5bar static fuel pressure, I can’t run a rising rate regulator so there’s not much point putting the regulator in the engine bay and returning. So I decided to keep things tidy and put it in the tank. This also means I don't need to run another fuel line under the car. The carby setup has one for feed and one for vent. So I can continue to use these for the same purpose. If I put the regulator in the engine bay, I'd need a third line to act as fuel return back to the tank.
The reg built into the megane sender is a standard ‘button’ style reg and you can buy little standalone housings with 8mm hose tails on for this purpose, but they’re £80 odd. For a bit of turned ally bar! Bollocks to that.
Considered machining one up myself but these regs are also found on the fuel rail on cars with a return fuel system. So a light bulb went on, I hopped on ebay and started trawling around looking at fuel rails. Found one from a 1.6L VW something-or-other that looked like it had a suitable configuration for what I wanted to do and bought it for £7 odd.
Then cut off the end holding the fuel regulator and welded the open end up. This now functions as a standalone pressure regulator.
Tee'd this unit into the pipe between the pump and the tank exit (yes, I used proper submersible fuel hose) and it should be good to go. Hose clamps to be added and zip ties to be replaced with jubilees.
So that should drop straight back into the 19 16V tank and deliver a static 3.5bar regulated supply straight out the top, like the megane 225 tank did.
I have been trying to get the fuel system sorted though.
Since this 19 had a carbed engine, it had no electric fuel pump. The tank is also different to fuel injected 19s, not even capable of taking a fuel pump with the housing from a fuel injected 19. The one hole in the top is for the fuel level sender.
carby tank:
So I found a good second hand tank from a 16V which has the extra hole for a fuel pump. It also has a bowl/baffles inside which the non-FI tank doesn't have.
injecty tank:
The meg 225 like virtually all modern cars has a plastic tank and there’s just one hole for a single unit which houses the fuel pump, fuel filter, a swirl pot, fuel level sender and 3.5bar pressure regulator all integrated in one unit.
Typically, this unit is too big to fit through the hole in the 19’s tank (that would be too easy) so more modding required to fit a non-return fuel system to this tank. The megane setup still has a regulator and therefore a return. It’s just that the regulator is inside sender inside the tank, so the ‘returned’ fuel never actually leaves the tank. But it’s non-return in that there’s only one line to the fuel rail.
So I busted the megane sender apart to get the actual fuel pump out. Quite a bit smaller than the 19 16V pump (on the right)
The megane pump is the same form factor as a 'standard' Walbro GSS342 style pump, so a couple of quid on ebay bought a fitting kit with accessories that fit the megane pump. Using bits from this kit and some pieces of plastic cut from the remains of the megane sender casing, I got the megane pump in the 19 16V pump cradle and got the filter sock fitted.
Changed the wiring over to suit the megane pump
Next I needed to regulate the fuel to 3.5bar as per the megane setup. So tee in a 3.5bar fuel pressure regulator into the feed line somewhere between the fuel pump and the fuel rail. So either put the regulator in the engine bay and use a return line back to the tank, or put the reg inside the tank - converting to a ‘non return’ system. Since I’m running the OE management which depends on 3.5bar static fuel pressure, I can’t run a rising rate regulator so there’s not much point putting the regulator in the engine bay and returning. So I decided to keep things tidy and put it in the tank. This also means I don't need to run another fuel line under the car. The carby setup has one for feed and one for vent. So I can continue to use these for the same purpose. If I put the regulator in the engine bay, I'd need a third line to act as fuel return back to the tank.
The reg built into the megane sender is a standard ‘button’ style reg and you can buy little standalone housings with 8mm hose tails on for this purpose, but they’re £80 odd. For a bit of turned ally bar! Bollocks to that.
Considered machining one up myself but these regs are also found on the fuel rail on cars with a return fuel system. So a light bulb went on, I hopped on ebay and started trawling around looking at fuel rails. Found one from a 1.6L VW something-or-other that looked like it had a suitable configuration for what I wanted to do and bought it for £7 odd.
Then cut off the end holding the fuel regulator and welded the open end up. This now functions as a standalone pressure regulator.
Tee'd this unit into the pipe between the pump and the tank exit (yes, I used proper submersible fuel hose) and it should be good to go. Hose clamps to be added and zip ties to be replaced with jubilees.
So that should drop straight back into the 19 16V tank and deliver a static 3.5bar regulated supply straight out the top, like the megane 225 tank did.
Last edited:
DaveL485
Staff member
Check its rating as the carb stuff may be low pressure, carbs only run enough pressure to fill the float chamber, too much and it forces the float needle open and floods the choke. Like, half a bar or less. Certainly nowhere near 3.5 bar.
This is awesome work, very ingenious. Id have just lobbed a couple of 044's in with a swirl pot and a reg in the boot.
Neal R19
Well-Known Member
Yeah, the pipe that runs from the back to the front under the car is hard plastic, I'm pretty sure it's the same as on my 16V. The rubber bits that connected that to the tank and carb I'll obviously replace regardless as they're 25 years old!
Neal R19
Well-Known Member
That's probably what I'd have done if I wasn't a cheapskate :ag:
Besides, this project is sort of engine mod bangernomics; splashing out on anything that could instead be done with a pikey version is kind of against the ethos of the thing.
Neal R19
Well-Known Member
Happy New Year everyone!
Been plugging away at few things in the background recently. First I decided that if I was going to spunk 100s of pounds on proper driveshafts then I wanted to be damn sure they were the right length and that meant making my interim jobbies fit to drive with. So that meant they needed properly splicing together.
Dug out a bit of pipe from the scrap bin that looked OK. Gas pipe or handrail? Who knows! However it had a good 3mm or so thick wall and the ID was a pretty close match to the scenic dci shafts OD.
Used the wire wheel to flay off all the paint then parted off a couple of 100mm long lengths and bored the inside clean on the lathe, mainly to remove the weld seam.
Then measured and split my butt-welded shafts before machining those too to fit snugly inside the joiner pieces. Frigging hard steel!
If it's worth doing you might as well do it right (or semi-right) so to try to maximise the fatigue strength of these shafts I created a wavy end to them to increase the weld length by 3x or more, and spread the joint along the pieces of shaft a bit.
Then over the Christmas period I visited my mate Ed again to fire his metal gluing machine at them. Heated up to blue with a gas torch and then welded them while held in a little lathe with tailstock, using the cutting tool just as a visual gauge to straightness.
All good.
Will give them a lick of paint just so they dont go too rusty and shitty looking too quickly, then sling them together and trial fit.
Will they stand up to full on abuse? Who knows, maybe, maybe not. Will they allow the car to be driven around a bit and MOTed? For sure.
Been plugging away at few things in the background recently. First I decided that if I was going to spunk 100s of pounds on proper driveshafts then I wanted to be damn sure they were the right length and that meant making my interim jobbies fit to drive with. So that meant they needed properly splicing together.
Dug out a bit of pipe from the scrap bin that looked OK. Gas pipe or handrail? Who knows! However it had a good 3mm or so thick wall and the ID was a pretty close match to the scenic dci shafts OD.
Used the wire wheel to flay off all the paint then parted off a couple of 100mm long lengths and bored the inside clean on the lathe, mainly to remove the weld seam.
Then measured and split my butt-welded shafts before machining those too to fit snugly inside the joiner pieces. Frigging hard steel!
If it's worth doing you might as well do it right (or semi-right) so to try to maximise the fatigue strength of these shafts I created a wavy end to them to increase the weld length by 3x or more, and spread the joint along the pieces of shaft a bit.
Then over the Christmas period I visited my mate Ed again to fire his metal gluing machine at them. Heated up to blue with a gas torch and then welded them while held in a little lathe with tailstock, using the cutting tool just as a visual gauge to straightness.
All good.
Will give them a lick of paint just so they dont go too rusty and shitty looking too quickly, then sling them together and trial fit.
Will they stand up to full on abuse? Who knows, maybe, maybe not. Will they allow the car to be driven around a bit and MOTed? For sure.
Last edited:
Duncan Grier
Well-Known Member
Good progress!!!
I have found with the right man spec weld and decent sleeving has lost nothing to v option / drilling hole and welding etc over the years.
This way also is a lesser issue on balancing. Had mixed results in terms of breakages the heat needed for a decent weld does weaken the shaft but what you have looks good
If nothing else get the bar fully measured if spot on for if required to get a special machined
DG
I have found with the right man spec weld and decent sleeving has lost nothing to v option / drilling hole and welding etc over the years.
This way also is a lesser issue on balancing. Had mixed results in terms of breakages the heat needed for a decent weld does weaken the shaft but what you have looks good
If nothing else get the bar fully measured if spot on for if required to get a special machined
DG
Sparkysparks
Well-Known Member
Subbed for major awesomeness!
Neal R19
Well-Known Member
Bit more done today.
Gave the middle bits of the shafts a bit of silver hammerite and reassembled with all the original joints and gaiters since they seemed to be in decent condition.
Put them on the car to check everything is the right length etc
With the hub nut not done up the CV can be pushed in a little bit with the the suspension at all angles so hopefully that means it's good to go.
Also fitted the 280mm brakes from the scenic - exactly the same as clio 172/182, but the hose exits at a different angle.
And from the front with the car on its wheels:
Driveline is pretty straight so hopefully should all work ok
Because the original 13" alloys won't fit over the 280mm brakes I fitted a set of 15" Twingo alloys...
Those look way too smart to be left on there, but I have other plans...
The car has been growing a nice selection of vegetation
Gave the middle bits of the shafts a bit of silver hammerite and reassembled with all the original joints and gaiters since they seemed to be in decent condition.
Put them on the car to check everything is the right length etc
With the hub nut not done up the CV can be pushed in a little bit with the the suspension at all angles so hopefully that means it's good to go.
Also fitted the 280mm brakes from the scenic - exactly the same as clio 172/182, but the hose exits at a different angle.
And from the front with the car on its wheels:
Driveline is pretty straight so hopefully should all work ok
Because the original 13" alloys won't fit over the 280mm brakes I fitted a set of 15" Twingo alloys...
Those look way too smart to be left on there, but I have other plans...
The car has been growing a nice selection of vegetation
Last edited:
