KW Variant 3 Coilovers

[Lankan]

Given that there are a few of you who are running KW V3's on your Vees, would be interested in your feedback.

I understand that there are two kits bearing model numbers that are suitable for the Clio V6 - KW35290020 and KW35290009.

KW35290020: 10-30mm on the front, and 10-30mm on the rear
KW35290009: 20-40mm on the front, and 5-20mm on the rear

Which of the above is suitable for the Phase 2?

Are there any other differences between the two?

 

[looch]

10-30mm are the ones I'm running mate. Mine are set all the way up at present which is 10mm lower than OEM. I may lower them in summer but for now it's just about speed bump passable. I did have them dropped 30mm during fitting to see what it was like but without spacers at the time it looked daft.

 

[Lankan]

10-30mm are the ones I'm running mate. Mine are set all the way up at present which is 10mm lower than OEM. I may lower them in summer but for now it's just about speed bump passable. I did have them dropped 30mm during fitting to see what it was like but without spacers at the time it looked daft.

Thanks Looch.

What made you choose KW35290020 as opposed to KW35290009, or is it the case that the former is the only one suitable for the Phase 2?

 

[Lankan]

Phase 2 on KW V3's running a slalom course: LINK and LINK

Appears to stay quite flat, but looks like it has a smidge of understeer in the wet on entry after hard braking.

 

[hualpa_jo]

According to the catalogue:
35290009: Phase 1
35290020: Phase 2
With just the lowering rates you stated above. Why they use different measures is a miracle to me. The springs as well as the dampers should be exactly the same, at least I was told that. The difference is that the Ph2 option features mounting points for ARB droplinks front and rear although only the front ones are used in the standard setup. The Ph1 ARB is connected to the lower wishbone directly therefore the Ph1 coilovers don't have those mounting points.

 

[Lankan]

According to the catalogue:
35290009: Phase 1
35290020: Phase 2
With just the lowering rates you stated above. Why they use different measures is a miracle to me. The springs as well as the dampers should be exactly the same, at least I was told that. The difference is that the Ph2 option features mounting points for ARB droplinks front and rear although only the front ones are used in the standard setup. The Ph1 ARB is connected to the lower wishbone directly therefore the Ph1 coilovers don't have those mounting points.

Thank you Jonas. Exactly the type of information I was looking for.

The lowering rates stated above were the only points in the product descriptions that I could find that makes them different. So effectively the only real difference is the mounting points for the rear ARB. If so, then why on earth would the sellers not state that in the description?

I wonder whether this is the reason BC Coilovers are only stated as being suitable for the Phase 1?

 

[ColinG]

Do you think it's worth ringing a company such as larkspeed to see if we ordered like 5 sets there would be any room for discount?

Last time I phoned to enquire for 1 set they said no as £1466 is already a lot lower than KW's RRP.. But might be worth asking for a group buy

 

[Lankan]

Do you think it's worth ringing a company such as larkspeed to see if we ordered like 5 sets there would be any room for discount?

Last time I phoned to enquire for 1 set they said no as £1466 is already a lot lower than KW's RRP.. But might be worth asking for a group buy

Certainly worth a try. Will get on to it once I have all the info to hand - currently in the info gathering stage as this is going to be for spring 2014.

 

[hualpa_jo]

The lowering rates stated above were the only points in the product descriptions that I could find that makes them different. So effectively the only real difference is the mounting points for the rear ARB. If so, then why on earth would the sellers not state that in the description?

I wonder whether this is the reason BC Coilovers are only stated as being suitable for the Phase 1?

Their product description isn't very informative anyway I doubt they care about mentioning such design details. I just checked the parts approval document for Germany which is the same document for both models so springs and dampers are the same. I don't have my own documents at hand so I could tell you whether there is a difference in terms of legality here in Switzerland.

Fact is though that ph2 coilovers fit a ph1 but not the other way round.

 

[Lankan]

Fact is though that ph2 coilovers fit a ph1 but not the other way round.

Now that I understand the differences between the two that's good enough for me - KW35290020 it is then.

 

[looch]

Wait til you read the set up instructions lol

It's very much a DIY until you get it right for your driving

 

[ravydavy]

Can anyone tell me how much of an improvement these give? Considering a set.

Renault havent got and oem struts left according to my local dealer so might as well put them on early!

 

[Lankan]

Wait til you read the set up instructions lol

It's very much a DIY until you get it right for your driving

Indeed, but don't intend doing the work myself, but rather will let an expert take care of the installation, and then have the whole thing corner weighted and set up to my liking. Obviously this may take sometime and a few iterations, but will get there in the end.

The handling as per a fast road set up is more important to me than the 'look'...................

 

[shinji]

Sorry to hi-jack the thread but I'm also planning going down the coilover route.

I plan to replace the std front top mounts with new ones during the coilover installation and I am wondering which bits I need to order for Phase 1 V6? I know there is a top mount kit from RPD but you don't need all the bits if going down the coilover route.

Here is the exploded diagram:


[smilie=thanks.gif]

 

[weirdfish]

I had the KW V3 coilovers on a Z3MCoupe I used to own, along with H&R ARB's they transformed the cars handling, but they do take a bit of time to dial in the correct settings for your driving style, but well worth being patient and getting it right.
The best way I found was to pick a stretch of road that is known to you, and contains a mixture of flat/twisties/humps, so as you can get the car to behave in all the different ways that it would normally, then you just keep driving this stretch of road until you get the settings to your liking, don't forget, no 2 people drive exactly the same, so settings will be different for each individual.
The main aim is to make sure that you keep as much rubber on the road at all times. Believe me, it's fun doing it, and it does help if there is more than one person driving the road, as the other one can see from the outside how the car is actually behaving, and can always point the driver in the direction of what needs doing, ( if that makes sense ).
Stay safe though. :race:

 

[looch]

Great advice Steve, said it MUCH better than me :approve:

The adjusting and clicks can take time, but its a fun process