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help! Trophy won't run

boccarp

New Member
I got a wicked nice Trophy but she won't run. Checked spark..perfect, checked compression 248-250 all cylinders (perfect), Had all injectors cleaned and flowed (perfect)..Wierd thing front 3 cylinder spark plugs are wet back 3 are dry as a bone. So what's next? Crank sensor? ECU? :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
 
First of all, check you have fuel in it!! ;) There is no easy way of knowing how much is in the car.

Is it turning? Is it just reluctant to start? Or is it stalling?

Sometimes the butterfly valves on the throttle stick, particularly when its not run in a while. Check they are opening?


Which car have you got? Is it the one recently sold via BAT? I seem to recall that had an running issue which is why the owner in Japan sold it.
 
Take it you have checked fuel to rails and pressure? Crankshaft sensor for any damage, broken wires and correct clearance? Stating obvious but if injectors and coils okay this tells me one bank is fuelling but no spark and the opposite on the other side, has the loom got mixed up or damaged? Check ECU pins are clean straight and corrosion free, engine earth?
 
where is the cam sensor located? I have now cleaned and flowed the injectors (perfect), Perfect impression, perfect spark, replaced crank sensor, it has wicked spark in all6 ports, new plugs, fresh vp100 fuel. Noid light shows the injectors only firing one pulse then nothing even if you continue to crank. Ok ecu problem?
 
Can you explain a little more about the problem?

It cranks ok but won’t fire? This is a Trophy car, right?

I know the the throttle bodies can go “out of sync”. It has happened on mine (twice before!). Car will crank but never fire. There is a simple but well hidden reset process to “realign” the throttle bodies.

This process involves making a jumper wire and shorting 2 pins on the control unit.

Let me know if this might be your issue and I will look at my notes and let you know the details and which pins.
 
wow...the out of sync is thing is a new gremlin I have not heard of before. Please let me know how to do it. I'll try anything now. I'm just about ready to scrap the ecu and wire in a full Haltech 2500 Pro
 
cranks but won't fire. Plenty of spark at each coil. fuel is in the rail, injectors are getting only one pulse of fuel when you crank...then no more. out of sync throttle bodies sounds like the issue at this point. Can't find the crank angle sensor...didn't check it..but I have perfect spark.
 
Don’t junk the ECU just yet.

If your car cranks but doesn’t fire and there is fuel air and spark this could well be the issue.

I need to go check my notes but you need to make a 3 to 4 inch jumper wire.

I’ll come back to you.
 
Right, I’ve checked…..

You need:
1) to locate the VDO port of the ancillary control unit. (Originally mounted on the bulkhead where the passenger seat would be - also had DAS, ACQUIS and COMM ports but you need the VDO one)

2) make a small jumper wire

3) switch ignition on

4) short pins B and F to each other on the VDO port for 5-10 seconds

5) remove the wire and you should hear the butterfly valves on the throttle bodies run through an initiation sequence. (If you don’t hear this. Switch ignition off and start again at step 3).

6) switch off ignition

7) wait 5-10 seconds

8) follow normal start up procedure.

Hope this works for you. I had exactly the same issue and it took me a long time to work out what had happened and how to fix.

Let me know if this works.
 
ok...get it running.rear 3 cylinders are firing correctly. front three cylinders are firing late. The timing is off. Found out the prior owner broke a fan belt and then the car started running shitty. They replaced the belt but the car never ran properly again. Took off the belt covers and found broken belt material stuffed in the front exhaust cam gear. I believe it jumped a tooth. Unfortunately to replace the belt and time it correctly the motor has to get dropped out. Unless you guys know of a way to do the belts and time it correctly with the power plant in the car. It's just so tight!
 
Have you checked compressions on all 6 cylinders? As there is belt debris lying around they may well have synchronised the cam timing when new belt was fitted but not removed and inspected the heads for damage, ie bent valves. You should be able to put in locking pins without removing the engine to confirm everything is aligned, likewise it is possible to change the belt but not the easiest!
 
pulled the motor. found a bunch of fan belt materials stuffed against the cam belt. Looks like the belt jumped a couple teeth. Doing a leak down now on all the cylinders just to make sure I don't have any bent valves. Got new Gates kit with the belts/water pump/pulleys ready to go in. Note...motor comes out in about 30 minutes. Real easy.
 
30 minutes is rather quick! But indeed not to much to it. Hassling with the engine in the car not worth it IMO. :salut:
 
boccarp":1e9i24i5 said:
pulled the motor. found a bunch of fan belt materials stuffed against the cam belt. Looks like the belt jumped a couple teeth. Doing a leak down now on all the cylinders just to make sure I don't have any bent valves. Got new Gates kit with the belts/water pump/pulleys ready to go in. Note...motor comes out in about 30 minutes. Real easy.
Got a pair of trophy heads, bare, but with cam carrier caps, if you need them :approve:
 
rustedandrotten":2tlcby5e said:
boccarp":2tlcby5e said:
pulled the motor. found a bunch of fan belt materials stuffed against the cam belt. Looks like the belt jumped a couple teeth. Doing a leak down now on all the cylinders just to make sure I don't have any bent valves. Got new Gates kit with the belts/water pump/pulleys ready to go in. Note...motor comes out in about 30 minutes. Real easy.
Got a pair of trophy heads, bare, but with cam carrier caps, if you need them :approve:


Do you know if the cam gears are the same for intake and exhaust?
 
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