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Heheheh, My 2009 Laguna Coupé Already A Classic Here!!

It's Official - Waterless / Rinseless Washing _IS_ Safe!
Hello Folks,

Following on from my ADS clay cloth experiences, Alfred (in Singapore) decided
to despatch the "Octagon Formula" black box to me as a gift. Being that I'm
a total noob and completely out of my depth when it comes to such coatings,
and as I've discussed here previously, something that I'm reserving for days
when polishing and especially waxing become too difficult, I made some
arrangements to go and see Matt (stangalang) in Oldham.

I might be an old fogey, but I don't shun modern potions, I welcome them!
So this trip would be to try and gather as much information as I could, so
that I'm equipped to describe the process and its effects.

That visit happened last weekend and I've written a full report of the day in
a separate thread. While in general I've written about the ADS process in that
thread, what I want to do here is to reassure people that departing from the
sacred cow of the two-bucket method can be perfectly safe!

Actually, I was quite taken aback by some of the compliments, especially
from Steven (m2srt - a contributor in this thread). The fact that the car is
never garaged by me drew quite a gasp from him! Generally speaking, the
feedback I got was that other detailers had seen cars less than a year old
with more swirls than mine has after nearly 5 years.

Seeing the Octagon Formula (it's eight processes concatenated into 3 tiny
bottles, hence the name) being applied to my car was quite an eye-opener.
From what I've read, most of these specialised coatings need a fair bit of
very intense preparation before you can apply them. The ADS coatings are
still nowhere near as simple as applying a coat or two of wax, but they
don't seem to demand almost clinical application conditions either.

If you're not working in an enclosed environment, then the weather won't be
too favourable until well into the Spring of next year. So, I'm planning to do
a more detailed write-up about this nearer the time, when it'll be a bit more
relevant.

Probably the best news of the day was that once the coatings have done
their bonding and hardening thing, you can then apply a wax. You don't
have to, but if you miss the therapeutic effects of stroking cherished metal
and plastic, you can use any wax you like! Howzzzatt?? :thumb:

My thanks once again to Matt and everyone for a thoroughly enjoyable day. :thumb:

Regards,
Steve
 
Review of 2013 Experiences
Hello Folks,

Introduction
Well, all too soon, it's that time of year when I get round to writing a resumé
of the previous year's work, and the changes to my routines along the way.
It has been a busy year with some very interesting cars encountered, one
of them quite unexpected! However, this year has also seen a massive leap
in available technology, which helps a person with gammy hands no end!

A Very Rare Breed
Probably the biggest joy was being invited to "advise about detailing" by the
owner of a car that celebrates its 50th birthday in 2014. Enigmatically
described as "my GT" by the owner, it turned out to be a rather beautifully
kept 1964 Gordon Keeble.

The biggest joy came from watching him clay his car, accompanied by the
occasional remark about how enjoyable the process was, and how smooth
the paint was becoming. From feedback received, the end result of our efforts
was much appreciated by show visitors :thumb:

s5.postimg.org_ozs043q5z_gk07.webp
This is the Gordon Keeble wearing its final wax coating.
In case you missed it, full detail thread is here...

Then Another Rare Barge
There was more satisfaction gained later in the year when I finally convinced
a friend of mine that giving his "granny" a good detail would be worthwhile.
The car in question being a 2.8 Ghia X of the species, in all its 1985 finery!

From this...
s5.postimg.org_wkoyomrzr_gnada01.webp

To this...
s5.postimg.org_ffbyh53cn_gnada24.webp

In case you missed this one too, full detail thread is here...

There were a few products that I'd not tried before, but probably the most
effective was the wheel cleaner. Despite being quite a vicious form of cleaner,
definitely observe the label warnings(!), the A-Chem Alloy Brite did for the
many years build-up of baked-on brake dust, and the dreadul tyre coating.
The owner had never seen those turbine pattern wheels look so clean!

So, What's New This Year?
Well, to do that, I guess I need to revisit what was in vogue in my armoury
last year and see what the changes have been.
Lowiepete said:
Revisiting The Core Products List
Of course, with 3 Finish Kare products in my existing core list, and finding
that Alex from Serious Performance was a distributor of FK, there was room
to explore their range further. I'm guessing there'll be little surprise that I've
added 3 more of their products (all new to my experience) to the list...
  • Cleaner / Shampoo - ONR for bodywork, HFE for wheels / FK#146 Finish Restorer for glass and clay
  • Polish - gTechniq P1
  • Pre-Wax Cleaner - OPS / SP Paint Cleaner
  • QD - FK#425 / SP Show Detailer
  • Sealant - FK#1000p / Hybrid of SP Sealant and Wet Glaze 2
  • Paste Wax - Harlys / FK#2685 Pink Wax
  • Liquid Wax - SP Spray Wax / OCW / CG Blacklight
  • Tyres / Trim - FK#350 / FK#108AS
  • Glass - gTechniq G3
Additions to the list are shown in green. It's quite surprising to me that there
are 7 in total.

There is one major addition, and one equally major removal, with the latter it's
not just products, but a complete detailing stage! For me this is probably the
most significant step that has been made in years.

Obviously, the entering of ONR into my regime was a complete game changer,
simply because it allowed me to continue with this hobby. However, despite
my early and severe reservations, the ADS clay cloth just takes everything
to a level that I could only have dreamed about this time last year.

Being able to cut out the pre-wax cleaning stage isn't a small step! Although
it always produced good results, so I never skimped on it and the products
were excellent, the toll on my hands made it a step that my hands didn't
much appreciate. On a big car, like the granny, I certainly paid for it in
discomfort later!

So to this year's Core Products List...
  • Cleaner / Shampoo - ONR for bodywork, HFE for wheels
  • Polish - [strike]gTechniq P1[/strike] Liquid Shine Zero Swirl
  • [strike]Pre-Wax Cleaner - OPS / SP Paint Cleaner[/strike]
  • Clay - Redundant too, replaced by ADS Clay Cloth
  • QD - SP Show Detailer
  • Sealant - FK#1000p / Hybrid of SP Sealant and Wet Glaze 2 / FK #2180 sealant
  • Paste Wax - Harlys / FK#2685 Pink Wax / ADS Obsidian Wax
  • Liquid Wax - Serious Performance Spray Wax / CG Blacklight
  • Tyres / Trim - FK#350 / FK#108AS
  • Glass - [strike]gTechniq G3[/strike] ADS ArtDeGlass
As ever, additions are highlighted in green.

About Those List Additions...
The Liquid Shine Zero Swirl polish, available from Alex at Serious Performance,
was another good find. Nowhere near as expensive as the P1, it works well by
my hand and by Stevesuds' machine. He reported back that it could be
worked for much longer without the pad drying out and there was less sling.

I'll come back to the clay cloth, so the next addition was the FK #2180
sealant. For anyone who doesn't get on with a paste wax, this product is
another jewel that's in danger of falling under the radar. The instructions on
the side of the bottle read like the script of a detailer's dream, and it will
produce results to match!

Through most of the year, my staple waxes have proved their worth. The
Pink Wax looked amazing on the Gordon Keeble, although some panels
ended up with Bouncer's strawberry+cream wax. However, there is a new
kid on the block. For the the ADS ArtDeKotsos Obsidian Wax, I sat down
and wrote an Extended Review and Guide. What other wax ever featured
on DW has had that kind of accolade afforded to it?

Why a specific guide? Well, the secret to this wax is in how thinly you can
apply it. Unlike most paste waxes, it's actually very soft and it's way too easy
to overload your pad. At a recent East Anglian meet, we had a go at waxing
Alexjb's mini - both car and owner ended up much brighter :)

The final change came with applying some ArtDeGlass. To begin with I wasn't
very impressed. However, that probably came down to how I had applied it.
These fancy potions from Singapore do need very clean substrates too!

This coating is still under close observation, and I'm still in two minds over
whether or not the beads are just too tiny. Oh, if you like tiny beads, then
the entire ADS range will fulfil any fantasy you may have in that direction!

You'll probably have noticed that I've dropped a few products from my
staples list. Nothing must be read into that beyond the fact that I'm trying
or have explored new products. The FK #146 for example, I had run out of
and Alex had no stock when I came to re-order.

As for the G3, I could very well go back to that after the ArtDeGlass, such
is my split decision over the very tiny beads. All the products that were
previously listed haven't suddenly become useless, far from it, and I'll still
happily recommend them in replies where they are relevant!

The ADS Clay Cloth
I've already written several column inches about this product from a general
user's point of view. What about my approach to it as a disabled guy? When
the invite came from Matt, I did wonder what it was that he was seeing in
how it could make detailing more accessible.

Let's get past the cost hurdle first. The idea of paying out 40 quid for a
rubberised microfibre cloth seems at first sight like extortion. Certainly, once
I had looked at the ADS price list and realised its cost, I was not much looking
forward to receiving this cloth, even on loan! Why has my head been turned?
Because I now see this as the biggest step forward in car detailing that there
has been for a very long time!

s5.postimg.org_d21x6kdvb_clothrvw12a.webp
Here's my evidence. The wing has had one coat of BWW, but on the bonnet is 9
year old paint that has not been machined, but is as it was after the clay cloth
clean. I even sent Matt @ ADS an email asking if my eyes were deceiving me.


When you consider that the only thing you need to be able to do is to very
lightly push or pull the cloth from side to side at whatever pace you fancy,
with absolutely no additional pressure, how simple can it be? Not only that,
the finish that you get on the paint is enough to totally eradicate one of
the most difficult stages of any detail. That changes it from a very expensive
cloth to an indispensible tool!

If the choice for you falls between an expensive wax and this tool, it's very
obvious which direction I'll point you toward. Oh, and don't be beguiled by
pale imitations. When it comes to tools, would you compromise the finish
that you're proud of by going cheap?

Was 2013 All Good News?
I hesitate, but there were products that I didn't welcome with much
enthusiasm. Quite why OPT needed to introduce ONR Wash and Wax I
find really baffling. I guess it's marketing men having their way. Waterless
wash products and rinseless wash products don't need the addition of
wax! Especially when the technique requires a final buffing wipe. That's
purely my opinion, driven by the fact that without the wax additive they
can be so much more versatile, and very much safer too!

I was quite impressed with the way that the Duragloss #931 did its
cleaning, but that evaporated because of its final wipe requirement.
If I have to get the ONR Wash & Shine out in order to carry that out,
then I might as well use it for the whole washing process. Whatever
you do, don't be going at that final wipe with a _dry_ microfibre cloth!

The Most Surreal Moments of 2013?
That accolade goes to when I applied Bouncer's Valentine Wax to both
my own car and to the granny. People were stopped in their tracks by
that wonderful strawberries and cream smell. Delicious!

Saving the Best Until Last
You know when you go out your way to give someone a treat, like a
real treat that they won't forget in a hurry, have you ever wondered
what it is like to be on the receiving end of such kindness? Early in
November I got to find out!

To say that I left a trip I made to Oldham with a bit of a lump in my
throat simply qualifies me as the master of describing understatement.
I had already been taken aback by the generosity of ADS Alfred, who
sent me the very first Octagon Formula box to arrive in the UK. Mark
you that this was ahead of his UK and EU distributor, Matt (stangalang)!

Was Matt phased by this? Not a bit of it. As I was clearly out of my
depth in understanding these coatings, he was very happy to not only
explain them, but also to apply them to my Coupé. This meant making
a 220 mile journey, but boy was I rewarded!

Not only was Matt there, I got a "reception committee" that made me
feel so welcome, I ended up quite overwhelmed. I'm normally the right
gobby one, all full of himself; not on this trip out! It was a long day and
I then had an 80 mile journey up to Cumbria for my overnight stay.

The next morning, after 3 degrees of frost, I found this on my car...

adsbeads3.webp

See if you can pick out the area above from this picture...
s5.postimg.org_erfz0oawn_adsbeads4.webp

You can read about what transpired on that day, though I do admit,
I was well and truly out of my depth! It's very rare I go quiet!

Conclusions & Thanks
Last year I was agonising about the frequency of my detailing clean back
sessions; whether to stick with two, or just cut back to one. All of that
was based upon using products and potions that have followed a similar
path for a very long while. Certainly, the biggest change for me when I
joined DW back in March 2009 was being introduced to ONR.

While previous years have seen small changes, 2013 probably heralds the
biggest change ever in my own detailing. I almost feel like I'm a turncoat,
with me previously eschewing the new fangled coatings in favour of the
time-honoured wax, simply because I thoroughly enjoy the therapy of
waxing the lovely lines of my car.

All of that is about to change! Hitherto, I've avoided that route because
it did seem to outlaw the waxing. Nano coatings and wax are not happy
bedfellows. However, these coatings from the ADS stable are a complete
exception to this rule.

I can still feel how roundly I was admonished for wondering if they would
make wax redundant. Not only that, the way that they repel water just
has to be seen to be believed. The water behaviour behind an ONR mitt
showed that this is the way forward. Though you can, if you wish, still
apply a wax and yes, any wax you like, over the top. How good is that?

So, my biggest thanks go to Alfred and Matt, along with several others
who frequent the ADS section here. It's always a pleasure to put faces
to names, and it'll be good to renew acquaintances once again in 2014.
I'll be coming a bit better prepared for that visit...

On the subject of meeting people face to face, I do hope that we can
overcome the strange insularity that we find in East Anglia. The latest,
very successful detailing meet really proved how valuable a real world
experience can be. So, thanks to Mark, Peter and Alex for your efforts!

In closing, I hope that my many writing forays have given people as
much pleasure as I've had in composing them. I'm looking forward to
20-14 with great anticipation! My best wishes for a peaceful Yuletide
and a prosperous New Year!

Regards,
Steve
 
Last edited:
First Detail of 2014
Hello Folks,

Well, we don't get wet winters in E. Anglia, at least not until this last one.
As for the amount of salt they've applied to the roads, I'm sure someone's on
a big fat bonus there was so much! So, making the best of some clement
weather today, and in preparation for the car's 5th birthday service and MOT
this week, I gave it a thorough wash. I've got to say that it wasn't like any
post-winter wash I've done hitherto.

I used my usual CG Hose Free Eco for the wheels and arches, and some of
ADS / Ital Auto shampoo for the rest of the car. Both of these mixed in a
bucket with fairly copious amounts of water, by my standards anyway. This
to ensure the salt was fully dealt with. Instead of rinsing, I sprayed a liberal
amount of ONR into the shampoo residue and used my usual drying method
with a dampened MF cloth.

I didn't need to stand back to admire my work. What was pretty obvious was
how the ONR spray was being rejected by the coating, making the final wipe
process an absolute breeze. Considering just how few times I've been out to
clean the car this year, I'm just thrilled. I should be startled, but the growing
reputation of ADS products now tends to render this emotion redundant.

Here's some photos which considering the lighting conditions, are better than
I expected...

s5.postimg.org_9vy45pstz_r14008coupe.webp

s5.postimg.org_j50afu1pz_r14009coupe.webp

I suppose this is now the almost obligatory reflection shot...

s5.postimg.org_8fmlnkpx3_r14010coupe.webp

s5.postimg.org_9zwzj34mv_r14011coupe.webp

s5.postimg.org_y2dtdyl9z_r14012coupe.webp

Another of the regular shots I've taken of this car...

s5.postimg.org_5bgznwfg7_r14013coupe.webp

I know, I know, where's the beading shot? You know, this car has had enough
of getting wet lately... :)


Regards,
Steve
 
Hello Folks,

Well, I've finally got round to it, showing my ugly mug on camera playing with
the ADS Clay Cloth. The sound from the cloth's initial contact is not as good
as I'd hoped for, but I do show another sound comparison at the end.



Enjoy...

Link to Extended Review & FAQ

Regards,
Steve
 
Last edited:
My Bucketless Wash MethodUsing Optimum No Rinse (ONR)
Hello Folks,

{Post updated March 2013}

Most of the content of this thread I've copied from my regular posts on the
Disabled Detailing thread. This describes how I use Optimum No Rinse (ONR)
as a bucketless wash. For me, carrying buckets of water around inevitably
ends up with me spilling some, so finding alternative methods of cleaning here
has been a revelation.

The technique that I've described below can be slightly adapted as a method
of using ONR as a drying aid. Using _dry_ MF towels on paint that you can't
be certain is clean is probably the quickest way of inducing swirls. You can
actually watch the ONR evaporate, safe in the knowledge that you won't
get any water-spots.

Don't let the "disabled" bit put you off! The "savvy" people interpret this as
being a "labour-saving alternative". Also, if limited access to water, or carrying
buckets a fair distance puts you off from car cleaning, there is now no reason
to not have a gleaming car. All I've done is to adopt 21stC products like MF
cloths and ONR, and I'm not looking back. The car I drive is also pretty rare!

s5.postimg.org_ess96i1x3_r1307coupe.webp

This is Tia's Taxi on its 4th birthday after nearly 4 years worth of ONR in the
cleaning regime. Still no machine has been near it..! Please ignore the dirty
wheels, they were cleaned the next day with CG Hose-Free Eco instead.

s5.postimg.org_vphbyx9h3_r1306coupe.webp
I should emphasise that my starting point has been a fully protected car!
At any point in time the paint is wearing a good wax coating.

Whilst many people are using ONR as a replacement shampoo in a bucket, I
can say that it's safe to go to the next stage, and obviate the suds bucket
altogether. For me that's no longer an option anyway and I'm fully happy to
trust the wonders of ONR.

The key with ONR is to allow the product time to do its work. First,
you spray a fine mist of the product (ONR in a fairly high concentration, say
between 32 and 40 parts water to 1), and leave it to dwell for a while. Start
with 30 seconds or more. At that strength you'll probably be surprised at the
very slow rate of evaporation, even on warm panels.

The way to test if it's ready to wipe is to give another ONR squirt at the dirt
a little while after the initial spraying. If you see dirt movement, it's ready.
On heavier soiling, you can of course give it a second spraying before wiping.

As I've said, I now trust ONR enough to use it as a totally bucketless wash.
Here's my method for the car bodywork... (not the wheels!)

Important!
Please be aware that you should only use this method when you are
absolutely sure there is no road salt present.


Before wiping, spray an MF cloth about 6 times per side, then fold it into 4.
This cloth folding part is absolutely vital! (See how an expert views this) Then
spray the panel to be wiped with a fine mist of ONR and allow it to dwell.

If your cloth is already folded, do remember to ONR prime the side that will
do the wiping so that it's lightly dampened. At no point is a dry MF cloth
applied to the paint during this washing process!

Before you start, decide whether you'll wipe from left to right, or as I'm
showing from right to left. You should always lift the cloth between wipes.
Place the cloth, with the folded side as the leading edge at your starting
point. This keeps the folding integral when you wipe. Grab that leading
edge twixt thumb and forefinger to drag the cloth.

s5.postimg.org_e4zfu47jr_coup110.webp
The cloth in position

Lightly drag the cloth over the panel, quickly observing what you have picked
up after every pass. I should emphasise that at no point is there ever any
rubbing involved!

s5.postimg.org_iplm91r93_coup111.webp
The cloth turned over after the first pass

Lift the cloth off the paint and return close to your previous starting point. Do
_not_ wipe back and forth! Doing so will not only blur the points where you
decide to turn the cloth over, but you'll also find keeping the folds together
quite a difficult task.

For the next pass, slightly adjust how you hold the cloth by grabbing say
another half inch of it, again observe what's been collected. You'll see that
you'll have another leading edge of dirt. With practice, you can also keep
hold of the cloth for the second and subsequent passes and just rotate
your hand slightly. This method is all about your wrist action, so you know
that the previous leading edge is always held clear of the paint. You should
certainly get 3 passes with one side.

s5.postimg.org_cfuxzsh87_coup112.webp[/url]
The cloth after the 2nd pass. Bearing mind what I've said above, I'd
now turn the cloth over and avoid the 3rd pass
.

With each pass, use your own judgement about when to turn the cloth to a
clean side. For each subsequent pass you could just rotate the cloth so you
have a different leading edge on that drag, although I'd only now do this
when using ONR as a QD.

On light soiling you may not need to turn the cloth over to a clean side until
you go to the next panel, so you'll safely do 8 panels with just one cloth.
I class the bonnet and roof as 2 panels each.

s5.postimg.org_vyzj95fzr_coup113.webp
The cloth after completing the roof. The top left corner shows
where I've completed 3 passes, using my hand-rotation method


However, there is no challenge here on using just one cloth! If the soiling on
the cloth is heavy, don't forget you can always use multiple MF cloths - with
ONR you can never have enough of them.

On vertical surfaces, it's better to work in straight downward strokes, holding
the fold at the top. If there's more than light soiling, a second spraying just
before the first wipe is preferable. Tackling this safely is a matter of practice,
so take your time!

You will need to ensure that you don't place any more pressure on the paint
than if you were cleaning the roof or bonnet, so on the first few goes, look
for the less soiled areas to clean first. There will be no need to dry, the
polymers left behind either add their own protection or a ready base for a QD
like OID or FK#425.

All of the above is entirely a judgement call based upon what you see on the
cloth. Once you get used to it, judging a cloth rotation or flip-over will be
the work of moments. Yes, when you first tackle this, it'll be very scary!
Remember though that "Tia's Taxi" is no cheap runabout, and the paint
on this Renault is surprisingly soft...

If you do get light swirls, they won't be _any_ more serious than those that
are inevitable with any other washing method. Lightness of touch will ensure
that you won't get swirls or marring, just let the product and the cloth do
their work and it won't disappoint.

It won't be long before you'll be wondering how you ever managed without
ONR. It's no understatement that for me, it has been a revelation!

Regards,
Steve
 
Review: A Finish Kare Combo for the Deepest Shine
Hello Folks,

What Is It?

Finish Kare #2180 Ultra Poly Wipe Sealant - Anti Static +
Finish Kare #2685 Carnauba Polymer Paste Wax

s5.postimg.org_q9zf6h35j_r12coupe50.webp

What Does It Bring To The Table?

Finish Kare #2180 Ultra Poly Wipe Sealant & Conditioner is a sealant for
use on all finishes, A blend of anti corrosive, detergent resistant
polydimethylsiloxane co-polymers, which provide the finish with a high glossed
protective film that gives intensive wear and great resistance to heat and
water.

2180 removes surface accumulation and oxidation while penetrating and
sealing the pores of the paint, giving great depth and trueness of color. This
along with high melt resins offers prolonged surface protection and resistance
to the elements, UV, oxidation and detergents for months of maintenance
free appearance driving pleasure.

Excellent for use on paint, fiber glass, gel coat, glass and chrome surfaces.

Serious Performance Price: £12.95
Size: 15oz / 444ml.


Finish Kare #2685 Carnauba Polymer Paste Wax uses an advanced
process blended from #1 Brazilian Carnauba Wax and durable poly resins. The
result is a soft easy on easy off paste wax which delivers an ultra deep, ultra
wet, ultra glossy custom show car finish.

Excellent for use on all automotive and aircraft finishes.

Serious Performance Price: £17.95
Size: A HUGE 15 oz tin.

SP Note: For extra effect base coat with 2180 Ultra Seal. Multiple applications of
2685 will result in increased depth, slickness, wetness and will conceal stubborn
fine scratches and spider webbing.


What Am I Testing It On?

My Renault Laguna and on spoiler of a Honda Civic Type R

What Do I Think Of It?

When we think of sealing wheels for the winter, probably the Forum favourite
will be Finish Kare #1000p. So are there any similar price alternatives that
can give that kind of protection on the body paint but also provide some
depth? The finish from the #1000p is very glassy and doesn't suit everyone's
taste, however, the protection is legendary!

The #2180 Ultra Seal is a mayonnaise style potion with all the drawbacks of
getting even and regular amounts onto the applicator. Having got past that,
the bottle instructions read like the storyline of a detailer's dream...

Apply the product and work it in well into the finish... I used a soft
foam sponge that had been dampened with some ONR. This extended the
"working" period somewhat but not by much. My impression being that without
it the product would have dried too soon. On the Type R spoiler, I used no
more than 2 tiny spots on the applicator, so the bottle will last and last.

Buffing-off was a breeze; there was no rubbing either done or needed. On the
black Civic it brought the multi-colour flake to life, though to my eyes the
finish was a tad flat and very glassy. The effect was almost the same on the
Renault. In both cases it was almost exactly the same finish as I'd expect
from the wheel-wax.

The #2685 Polymer Paste Wax, I believe often referred to here as the pink
wax, comes in a huge great tin, and like its wheel wax counterpart will just
last and last. As with all FK products, less is more, so a very light swipe
across the surface with a dampened applicator will easily pick up enough wax
for a panel. When applying, there's no need to work it in, just light and brisk
strokes across the area will apply all that you need.

Visibly, this is not an easy wax to read for judging the moment to start your
buffing-off, it definitely needs the swipe test! When you come to buff-off,
there may be an initial loss of the sparkle gained from the sealant, but this
is more than compensated for by the depth and paint wetness.

With my silver flake, it's a finish I much prefer to the outright bling of sealants
on their own. On the Type R, there was only one word to describe that depth
of shine - classy! It just reinforces all the reasons behind buying a black car!
In a short visit there wasn't enough time to apply a 2nd coat, though to be
honest I'm not sure that on a dark colour it would have brought out much more.

On the Renault, I did put a second coat on the bonnet and roof and I was
amazed at the depth. There was some muting of the flake pop, but not to
any degree that would deter me from using this combination again.

Pros
For both products...
  • Value for money - 29p per car sealant / 40p per car the wax
  • Ease of Use - both in applying and buffing-off
  • The shine - An X factor in quality feel and results

Cons
An old chestnut with me, the dispensing of the #2180 sealant. One of the
quality hallmarks of FK is in its packaging, particularly its spray bottles. It
would be good if they could solve how mayonnaise style products are
dispensed.

Conclusions
Anyone who's followed my missives in the Disabled Detailing thread will know
how much I try to swim against the tide when it comes to the finish I want
to achieve on my metallic mud colour. It seems that the swings and
roundabouts always come to the same stopping point. If you want depth,
then don't neglect the carnauba. This is despite my trying many types of LSP.

At this point I've no idea on the level of protection that I've applied with this
combo, but simply going on FK's reputation in this field, I'm fairly confident
that it will be as good as their wheel wax with A.N. Other's carnauba wax on
top which has been a long-time favourite. I've held that combination as a
mantra for as long as I've used the FK products and rarely wavered.

Report just received:
The beading on the spoiler of the civic is monumental by the way.

Some pictures of the Laguna wearing this combo on the roof, bonnet and
down driver's side. Although you'll probably not tell the difference there's
another wax applied with spit'n'polish technique on boot lid and down the
passenger side.

s5.postimg.org_hqpojkqif_stamfd1201.webp

s5.postimg.org_usbd9fewn_stamfd1202.webp

s5.postimg.org_f1qafsvnb_stamfd1203.webp

Both products are available from:
Clean Your Car
or Serious Performance.

My thanks to Alex at Serious Performance for his help and recommendations.

Regards,
Steve
 
Review: Finish Kare #146 Anti-Static Finish Restorer
What is it?


Finish Kare #146 Finish Restorer Poly Wipe Spray Detailer - Anti Static
A multi-purpose product - cleaner, clay lube, QD, waterless wash

What Does it Bring to the Table?
Finish Kare #146 Finish Restorer Poly Wipe Spray Detailer is the perfect
spray detailer where the removal of light surface accumulation is needed.
Blended from highly reflective premium polymer resins, anti-corrosive agents,
UV inhibitors, mild cleaners and patented anti-static agents, #146 gently
removes smudges, light soil, oxidation, hard water spots, bug splatter and
other light contaminants while creating a winning high gloss finish with lasting
protection, and reduced dust attraction.


s5.postimg.org_lnnmzv587_fk146as.webp
The product bottle, showing how much was used to clean all the paintwork,
except the wheels, on my Laguna Coupe.


What Am I Testing It On?
Well protected Renault paint.

What Do I Think of it?
It's another product from the Finish Kare stable that's versatile in use, which
off-sets its initial costs very well. Attempting to describe this product and to
categorise it I think would become a matter of perception. Alex at Serious
Performance mainly promotes it as a clay lube. Indeed, it was as part of one
of Alex's clay and lube deals that I've purchased #146.

Over the past few days my car has been collecting a fair bit of dust, not at
all helped by the brisk Easterly breeze now blowing. So, this was an ideal time
to put this product to the test. Normally, in these circumstances I'd be out
there using ONR and my bucketless wash technique, but on this occasion I
simply substituted the #146.

To all intents and purposes I was testing it as a waterless wash. The results
were very impressive. One thing about FK products, they always come with
a quality spray head, so applying the product evenly was a breeze. Initially,
I tended to crop-spray the area to be cleaned, especially the horizontal
surfaces. When it came to wiping, there was a bit of a surprise in store.

Whilst I have limited motor function I'm also far more aware of drag. With my
usual bucketless wash wiping I'm expecting some drag from the MF cloth as
I slowly rotate it with my wrist as I'm progressing along the roof for instance.
(If you're unaware of this technique, it's fully explained in this thread)
With #146 the lack of drag was significantly noticeable. Its cleaning capacity
certainly wasn't lacking either!

s5.postimg.org_dd8ayt7av_r12coupe33.webp
Trying to get a decent picture of the cloth in the breeze was a bit difficult.
This picture doesn't do justice to the product's cleaning ability, sorry.


I also tried a second application in one area and quickly came to the conclusion
that I wasn't achieving any further cleaning or other benefit from it. Several Qds
will kind of "layer" by a second application; the surface slickness improves a tad.
This doesn't happen with #146!

Pros
Ease of use comes straight in as my number one reaction. A versatile product
that does its job well and, unlike other waterless washes I've used, it doesn't
dry white in awkward places. Where it will score highly is in its anti-static
properties, the bain of well protected paint surfaces. It wasn't shy at tackling
the remnants of bug splatter either.

Cons
Not so much of a con, but worthy of comment; there's no inherent reminder
of care in use of this product and its slickness as you wipe could easily give
you a false sense of security. In turn you could start to get a bit careless
and mar your paint. I would also highly recommend that users read and
observe the instructions on the bottle. Allowing the product to dry before
wiping it could cause problems.

Cost is a bit of a factor, but then I'm spoiled by cheapness of ONR. In its
sector, certainly amongst other waterless wash products and clay lubes, it
is good value for money, simply from its effectiveness.

Conclusions
One common question asked here is what to take to a show to help prepare
your car when you get there. There's no question that having found #146 it
will always have a place in my "show prep kit". As a QD it's very much at the
cleaning end of the spectrum, so it doesn't displace the popular FK#425 QD
at all. For anyone who may not trust products like ONR as a QD, then #146
should fit the bill perfectly.

s5.postimg.org_qnrkel8hj_r12coupe34.webp
Sun in a difficult place to get a decent picture, but then my car in a clean
condition is no stranger here :)


At some time over the weekend I'm hoping to do a bit of claying, so I'll be
putting #146 through its paces in that capacity and report back.

Finish Kare #146 Finish Restorer is available from Serious Performance at
£11.95 for a 32oz bottle. My thanks to Alex for his help and advice as always.

Regards,
Steve
 
Review: Polishing & Finishing Waffle Hand Applicators from Serious Performance
What Is It?

A pack of 2 pads, one for polishing and another for waxing, each with a
crinkly waffle base. The white polishing pad on initial feel seems very firm.
However, pre-soaking it in warm water will soon relinquish its firmness
and display properties very much like memory foam. By contrast, the
black pad is very soft and ideal for thinly applying waxes and sealants.

Both pads have sliced notches in them making them extremely easy to hold.
These pads bring us a level of simplicity of design that gives any user all the
control they would need over a pad, with no risk of it flying out of their hand.

The pads in their packaging...
s5.postimg.org_ijc3nv31z_spwaffle.webp

Please note: This first post reviews the firm white pad only!
See Post #4 of this thread for my comments on the black pad.

What Does it Bring to the Table?

The Serious Performance Polishing & Finishing Waffle Hand Applicators are
specially designed to increase effectiveness of compound and wax application
by hand. One pack contains 1 x Compound Waffle Pad (WHITE) and 1 x Wax
Waffle Pad (BLACK) The Pads Waffle design:

  • Reduces effort and application time.
  • Provides an even finish.
  • Minimises compound wastage, giving you a professional finish faster.
The pads are also sliced, making them easier to grip and protecting the surface
from finger marks.

Using the Compound Waffle Pad:

  • Lightly dampen the Waffle surface (preferably with warm water first)
  • Apply with a simple back and forth motion
  • Use an even pressure and change direction regularly for even finish.
  • After application remove residue and buff with a soft dry cloth.
Using the Wax Waffle Pad:
  • Apply wax with a circular motion.
  • Use an even pressure, overlapping the circles for an even finish.
  • Allow to haze up before buffing with a soft dry cloth.

What Am I Testing it On?

Initially, a stainless steel sink that's quite badly swirled. I will revisit this on
paint at a later date...

What Do I Think of It?

The pad itself has a waffle or "crinkly bottom" which helps focus the pressure
and to spread the friction heat over a wider area. The foam is very firm, but
behaves almost exactly like memory foam, so you don't need to constantly
keep firm pressure at the point of contact. This makes it much easier to use
than a pad with a flat base.

Up until recently I've been fairly ambivalent about applicator pads. For the
most part they have all suffered from the same problem, keeping a good hold
of them. For those unaware of my previous postings, I have very limited motor
function in my hands, so this aspect is pretty important.

For anyone, keeping good control over a pad is essential, just to get the
desired results. I've already alluded to this in an unofficial review on another
very easy to use pad from Serious Performance that I've posted into the
Disabled Detailing thread - see Post #152

The slits cut into the sides of this pad, unlike a certain energy drink, give you
real "wings" with which to grip the pad. It provides such a firm hold that it'll
be quite impossible to accidentally loosen your grip. The confidence that this
gives has completely changed my previous ambivalence. I can now concentrate
on the work's progress rather than on struggling to keep hold.

When I first felt this pad, my heart sank a little because it is very firm! Visions
of marring on soft Renault paint immediately sprang to mind. However, this
test revealed that it works really well. The bain of my life is the stainless steel
drainer on my kitchen sink and in the absence of some good detailing weather
at the time, it seemed like a good test candidate.

The drainer will mar with the greatest of ease, so I had a go at the swirls with
this pad and some gTechniq P1. I wasn't intending to do this as a review, but
I was so impressed, I thought I'd have a 2nd go. The pictures attached were
taken during this 2nd session. Not even with using Duraglit wadding can I get
this kind of cleaning reaction! As Yoda might say: "Impressed, I am!"

s5.postimg.org_adqbr6at3_drainer1.webp
Note the colour of the pad and how much crud it has absorbed.

s5.postimg.org_5cixpt3cn_drainer2.webp

s5.postimg.org_6g321rnzr_drainer3.webp

Not all the swirls are gone, but visitors are always impressed with how it shines.

The pad's behaviour under pressure is just like memory foam, so you can in fact
relax your hold, even when doing some enthusiastic rubbing.

Cleaning the Pad

The pad is made of very dense foam, so it easily absorbs material from the
surface it's being used upon. Rinsing out and cleaning is best performed under
a stream of water from the hot tap. Cold water tends to make the foam "freeze"
into its crushed form whilst squeezing. See my note under Cons below.

Pros

  • The simplicity of design and the control it gives.
  • The way that it'll help make hand polishing so much easier and a tad more
    effective, assuming a good quality polish is used. It'll never match the results
    of a machine, but it'll have its uses even if you've got a machine.
Cons
Not so much of a con, but nevertheless worthy of mention. In the first picture
I drew attention to what the pad had picked up. Getting this out is going to
need more than just a quick rinse in a bucket and certainly not in cold water!
I was quite startled at just how much yucky stuff was coming out of the pad.

When I did this review, I was unaware that these came in a sealed pack of
two, with one white and one black pad. Sadly, this puts a cost factor into
the equation because, in my view, the white pads will get the heavier use. I
would imagine that with polishes other than the gTechniq P1, the black pad
will come into its own. It will probably need someone with more experience of
polishes, and indeed, better motor function than I to make that assessment.

Notwithstanding the cost factor, my suggested remedy would be to have
several of these pads and then take them together to a sink for rinsing out,
using hot water. With just a single pad in use, the frequent running back and
forth will soon wear thin. This to the point where delaying the rinsing out
could result in you marring your paint!

Conclusions

Until now, most of my hand polishing efforts have been with a tri-foam pad.
Yes, the results were pretty good; the problem being that my hands soon
tired with trying to keep secure hold of it. This pad removes all that concern
and is an absolute joy to hold. Polishing by hand is never easy, but the results
I got with the combination of this pad and polish have pleasantly surprised me.

There's no question that using this pad with a good quality polish will help the
cause of hand polishing no end. It's never going to challenge results available
with a machine, but it won't disappoint either! I'm really looking forward to the
Spring when I can put it to good use. Who would have thought that such a
simple design would make all that difference?

My sincere thanks to Alex at Serious Performance. Until I received my DW
Xmas Draw parcel I had not equated the split design with such ease of use.
Can you tell how delighted I am, yet? :)

Part 2...


The first post was written back in February when the weather wasn't really
conducive for serious detailing. So, on a recent trip to Cumbria when
two cars became the subjects of my attention, I've finally been able to put
these pads through their paces.

The second car is a silver Merc C class which is the farm work-horse. I've
previously detailed this car and now that I've managed to educate those
involved with its cleaning, it no longer gets the TFR treatment. On my last
visit in September, the car was given a coat of CG Blacklight, topped with a
coat of FK #1000p, with just the FK applied to the wheels.

I didn't take any before pictures, but this picture gives a pretty good idea
of its interim neglect...

s5.postimg.org_owtby7vhz_merc1202a.webp

On my arrival at the beginning of May, the car, though quite filthy, still
looked like it had some protection on it. A quick jet wash with plain water
confirmed this. I didn't have time for any polishing on this visit, so it would
only receive a pre-wax cleaning treatment. Even so, I was quite surprised
at what came off the car's horizontal surfaces, testing the pads with the
application of three different cleaners. The picture below shows the results
on the white pads with their respective PWC product bottles behind...

s5.postimg.org_53p2yeuk7_sppadstest1.webp

I've already sent this picture to Alex at SP who now agrees that supplying
multiples of the white pads separately may be a good idea. For reference,
the P21S pad did the bonnet, and the other two products shared a clean-up
of the car's roof. I promise you, the car had been thoroughly washed first!

As the picture clearly shows, these pads really worked well! This was my first
go with the Serious Performance cleaner and despite its smelling like Brasso
metal polish I was pretty impressed! The picture may give an impression that
loads of pressure was used; this was by no means the case. Evidence of this
can be seen with the white-bits on the right. Like the stainless-steel sink
drainer, I was quite startled at what was coming off!

There's no question, when removing ingrained dirt like this, that the pads will
need a good cleaning out before any further use is made of them. This will only
be achieved by squeezing them out under a supply of warm to hot running water.
When you first feel these pads, you get faint trepidation of the possibility of
micro-marring, they are so firm.

It's what happens when they meet fairly warm water that changes everything.
It's a bit like clay in that respect. Indeed, unless you have ambient and surface
temperatures close to 60degF / 15degC minimum I wouldn't recommend using
these pads! Applying waxes and sealants isn't ideal at below these temperatures
anyway, so it's no great shakes.

Considering that no polish was used and the surface was only given a quick go
with pre-wax cleaners, the finish I achieved was very satisfying, especially
when you consider that no machine was involved and that I have limited motor
function. Seven months over a Cumbrian winter had certainly left their mark,
but it was no match for these pads!


P.S. For strict accuracy, the P21S bottle actually contains a hybrid mix of that
product and the Raceglaze PWC - both combined into one bottle for a space
saving exercise...


Now To The Black Pads
Because the weather the next day wasn't warm enough to apply a paste
wax, I decided that I'd apply a coat of CG Butter Wet Wax followed by a
coat of CG Black Light. There's one huge drawback with these "mayonnaise"
coatings in that it's quite a feat to get an even _thin_ coat onto the paint.
This is not helped by the fact that no two bottle-squeezes produce equal
amounts on the pad. In quite short order, you'll find yourself struggling in
your attempts to apply that elusive thin coating.

So, anything that helps this task get achieved has to be a bonus. These soft
pads are just the ticket. Prior to initially applying the wax product to the pad
I directed the ONR pump nozzle into a couple of the dips to give the pad a
prime, squeezing out any excess liquid. I then applied a semi-circle of BWW
about an inch from the centre and folded the pad in on itself.

I then began applying wax to the paint, initially in a circular motion, finishing
in straight lines. When it came to waxing after replenishing the pad I found
that I could regulate the amount I was applying to the surface simply by the
amount of pressure applied to the pad. It's quite probable that I got a good
50% plus extra area coverage from each pad loading.

The slits in the sides made holding the pad a complete breeze. It's quite
amazing just how much confidence this simple idea gives you, especially when
you encounter mouldings and door handles.

If anyone asks about wax combinations on silver, a coat of BWW + another
of Black Light speaks for itself...

s5.postimg.org_yxy67j8l3_merc1201.webp
Who would have thought of how this 8yr old car gets neglected?


With getting a much more even coat of wax, it goes without saying that all
the buffing-off was much quicker and easier too!

Conclusions
At the risk of repeating myself, receiving these pads in my 12 Days of Xmas
hamper has really opened my eyes! Hitherto, a pad was a pad was a pad, so
what? Well, make no mistake, these pads earn their keep! I'm hoping that
Alex can resolve the issue surrounding how these are marketed.

I'm really glad that I subsequently purchased a few of these packs, even if
the surplus black pads got given away as freebies at a recent E. Anglian meet.
Bearing in mind that these reviews come from a guy with gammy hands, just
imagine what can be achieved by anyone with full motor function. I have no
hesitation in heartily recommending them!


These pads are available from Serious Performance: priced at £5.95 per pack

Regards,
Steve
 
Review: Eco Touch Waterless Wash Kit

Hello Folks,
It seems that views on waterless washing are as polarised as ever, with anyone
who dares to raise this as a serious washing alternative having their remarks
treated either with disdain or as somehow being part of the lunatic fringe.
Indeed a great deal of unfounded mis-information is proffered as fact to bring
disrepute to this type of cleaning.

What Am I Using It On?
A Renault Laguna Coupe with very soft paint. Half the car is wearing Harlys Wax,
applied with the spit'n'polish technique, and the other half an FK#2180 /2685
combo as reviewed here last week.

What do I Think Of It?
When I first opened the package my first impression was one of respect. Clearly,
with this product the manufacturers are serious about projecting a quality
image! Not only is the microfibre cloth of good quality, the nozzle on the spray
bottle looks like some thought went into its design.

After a good shake, the next surprise is just how fine the spray is and just how
controllable your aim can be. One major drawback with some waterless products is
how they can dry white, mostly because of their kaolin clay content. None is
present in Eco Touch. Not only that, there's no mention of carnauba wax either.
So, the liquid that you spray is almost clear.

Preparation
My departure for this review is that I'm also going to include a short tutorial
on using waterless washes to best effect. Now, with this heading, it sounds like
this could be an involved procedure; perish the thought, it'll be the work of
moments. All you need are a couple of clean microfibre cloths, preferably short
pile, you run them under the tap and wring them out.

Your starting point
s5.postimg.org_9dace1vlj_r12coupe53.webp

The next stage is to fold your cloth into four. This is important, as is keeping
the integrity of those folds whilst you wipe. Next, spray the area that you're
going to clean with the product. Allow this a little time to dwell. If you spray
and immediately wipe, you could be working against yourself, just by making
a simple job a tad more difficult.

Area sprayed and dampened cloth in position
s5.postimg.org_jomp6pnav_r12coupe54.webp

Wiping will also be carefully done, mostly in straight lines. With the folded
side of your cloth as its leading edge, grab that edge twixt your thumb and
forefinger. Then lightly drag the cloth across the paint in one fluid movement.
You should not be using any pressure over and above the weight of the cloth!

With the Eco Touch I was pleasantly surprised, not only by how it behaved, but
by how "finished" the wiped area looked. I was able to do three swipes across
half the roof before picking up the dry microfibre to do some buffing off. This
photo shows the cloth after the first wipe and the next after the three wipes.

After the first wipe
s5.postimg.org_rxykl4h13_r12coupe55.webp

It's All In The Wrist Action
At the end of the first wipe you'll notice that there's a leading edge of dirt.
It isn't that pronounced in the photograph because of the lightness of my touch.
When the cloth is free like that, you'll get several leading edges rather than
just one! Really, for your second and subsequent passes you do need to present
a clean leading edge if you can.

This part of the wiping can be controlled by either of two methods. You can
either grab more of the cloth for the next pass, or simply keep hold and just
rotate your wrist a little so that a clean leading edge is being presented.

The cloth after cleaning half of the roof
s5.postimg.org_tfomafb5j_r12coupe56.webp

So, How Does Waterless Work?
OK, so now I'm going to do some real myth busting here! Most of the dust that's
found on the surface of a car is only abrasive when dry! Indeed, most of it will
fully dissolve in water. The exceptions to this are sand, stone, cement and salt.
What the waterless product does is to bring out the best in another technology,
the microfibre cloth.

So, an understanding of how that works is where most of the secrets lie. You'll
probably have seen the images of the Korean Army on the march with their goose-
stepping. That's probably the closest way of understanding how the MF works. As
you drag the cloth across the surface, you'll have millions and millions of tiny
strands doing their goose-step, and, as they encounter dust, they gather it.

However, that's only half of the story. For a MF cloth to work as intended, it
does need to be dampened. Generally, all that's needed is water. However, what
the waterless product also brings are ingredients to make the water wetter, and
polymers to encapsulate the dirt. Dragging the cloth through the sprayed cleaner
creates a momentary bow wave within which some magic takes place.

The dirt is whirled around temporarily, helping those elements that can to
dissolve, at which point the polymers envelope it. Any further contact twixt dirt
and paint is lubricated. The dirt then gets absorbed into the cloth. If the cloth
was not presented already damp, you would short-circuit this rather vital stage
in the process. So, your leading edge of dirt that's revealed is nothing more
than a glorified tide mark on the cloth.

At this point what I'm cleaning is dust from the dry atmosphere that's stuck to
the surface by late evening and early morning dews, then baked hard during the
day by an unremitting sun. In its dry state, it could do some damage! So, how
good is the cleaning? This next picture shows a full resolution 50/50 of the roof,
bearing in mind that specks in the clean part are flake-pop.
s5.postimg.org_4ty3sjdpz_r12coupe57.webp

When it came to buffing-off, I was pleased to feel the instant slickness of the
surface. What I hadn't expected was that the buffing off would be so easy! Not
only that, I hadn't expected the finish to be so glassy; sadly that's not to my
personal taste.

Waterless and Swirls
This next picture I think speaks for itself. If anyone tells you that waterless
is nothing but a short-cut to swirl heaven, here's the proof that it isn't! In
fact I took several pictures and this is the one which was the worst in terms
of showing swirls. Yeah, you've gotta look hard..!
s5.postimg.org_45p99lf07_r12coupe58.webp

This car is nearly four years old, and throughout its entire life it has only been
washed either with waterless or less-water products! Now, lets burst another
myth. This one will seem counter-intuitive. Deep pile MF cloths should only be
used _dry_ for buffing-off protective coatings. They should never be used for
waterless washing because they can hold sharps at an angle which could scratch
and if used for drying, say with the 2BM, they should be lightly dampened first!

The cloth after cleaning the roof and bonnet
s5.postimg.org_tksdk3ign_r12coupe59.webp

Keeping the folds integral, in both cloths, provides you with 8 clean sides as well
as providing a cushioning effect. Any pressure, bearing in mind your lightness of
touch, will be distributed through a wider area, with no risk of concentrating any
mishaps. Also, there's nothing to limit you to using more than one cloth!

On vertical surfaces, it is better to wipe downward, holding the cloth at the
top edge. Avoiding any pressure over and above the weight of the cloth will
take some practice. You also won't get any kind of even leading edge of dirt.
If there's extra dirt, say on panels behind the wheels, it may be beneficial to
give it a second spraying.

What the Eco Touch Didn't Touch
s5.postimg.org_dipudpirb_r12coupe60.webp

This was probably the biggest disappointment during the session. There were a
number of these marks on the car and although fairly softened, they were being
left behind. I would have expected these to be dissolved by the dwell time I
had given the product. In view of this, I'm not sure how well it would cope with
tree sap.

Eco Touch and Glass
Waterless cleaners are growing in popularity as being a first product choice for
cleaning car glass. How it wins over dedicated glass cleaners is that you very
quickly get a smear-free finish. Not only do you get clean glass, you get a
protective coating too.

This next photograph is another full-resolution 50/50 picture of the rear window
being cleaned. I was impressed with how easy this was to clean although it was
not a "one cloth" operation, unlike other waterless products I've used. However,
I did take a chance with doing the windscreen because the surface left behind
didn't feel like it had any coating at all. This could be big a mistake on my part!
s5.postimg.org_6tjaxoxfb_r12coupe61.webp

The Finish
In common with other waterless products the Eco Touch made cleaning the car a
quick and easy job. Overall, the whole experience was one where I had complete
confidence in the product and its ability to provide a quality of finish. One
aspect that I've not previously encountered was the glassiness of the shine.
There's no carnauba in this product, so the shine comes entirely from polymers
within the formula, as seen in this picture.
s5.postimg.org_5napl5jqv_r12coupe62.webp

As for washing wheels, especially alloys, I'd still use a hose-free wash in a
bucket. This is just a personal thing because I have severe reservations about
wiping brake dust off wheels into microfibre cloths and putting those into a
washing machine. The wheels were not touched for this review.

Conclusion
I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Eco Touch Waterless Wash! Certainly, as Stuart
mentioned, cost is a factor. However, if you intend to regularly use this, then
there is the opportunity to buy it in bulk and substantially reduce unit cost,
though at roughly £12 a litre it still isn't cheap! If you do buy in bulk, I would
recommend that it be dispensed from a pump sprayer with a decent adjustable
spray head.

As for all-year round use, I'd hesitate. Certainly with road salt, especially
that which is dispensed with molasses, I'm not sure that the product has enough
strength to work safely. If waterless is the only option I'd tend toward using
a less water wash product if only to ensure that all the salt gets dissolved
safely.

Manufacturers of waterless washes are clearly still investing heavily in R&D
and that shows in this product's quality. For some people the finish might be a
tad too glassy. It can be applied to any surface and its biggest strength is
that it doesn't dry white. If there's overspray, it doesn't detract from the
finish.

Twenty Minutes Later
s5.postimg.org_6lvo16mgn_r12coupe63.webp

With only the horizontal surfaces having anything of consequence on them, I
was able to do the whole car in less than 20 minutes. For anyone who likes a
bit of bling, this product won't disappoint!

Regards,
Steve
 
Finish Kare #350 Super Polymer Tyre Dressing

What is it?
Finish Kare Part #350 Super Polymer Body Shop Safe Tire (sic) Dressing

What Does it Bring to the Table?

Finish Kare #350 Super Polymer Body Safe Tire Dressing is a thick water
based polymer enhanced dressing perfect for use on tyres and exterior or
interior trim.

Finish Kare #350 Super Polymer Body Safe Tire Dressing gives a deep, glossy
sheen. It's wash resistant for better durability and will work on any type of
plastics or even rubber tyres or trim.

FK #350 is very easy to apply and use, simply apply with a sponge or brush,
allow to dry for approx 10 minutes and then wipe any excess off with a cloth.
Tyres may require a second application upon first use but will look fantastic
when finished!

Size:31 oz / 916 ml.


What Am I Testing it On?
Bridgestone Potenza tyre, after rain has stopped play, I'll also have a go
on a Falken tyre. Will report later on this.

What Do You Think of it?
In a word, impressive!

Anyone who's followed my missives in the Disabled Detailing thread will know
how much I rate the FK #108AS product, not just on tyres but on all the
black plastics, rubber trim, and even my lovely cream leather seats! There I
was, scanning the Serious Performance web site looking to replenish my stock
when something else caught my eye. FK#350 tyre dressing.

A quick search on here revealed no more than a couple of posts, and an
appeal for info in the Tyres section revealed no response. Curiouser and
curiouser...

So, I fired off an enquiry to Alex at SP and back came this response...
Serious Performance said:
Hey Steve!
Really nice super thick version of 108 but has gone under the radar somewhat...
Nice product though... And a 32oz bottle will last you forever!
I guess that was me hooked :)

From this point I'll let the pictures do the talking...

s5.postimg.org_anz9k6gqf_r12coupe07.webp
The tyre at the start. This had been treated with just one coat of FK#108AS
nearly 3 weeks ago and has had 2 washes in the interim.

s5.postimg.org_wlr5086d3_r12coupe08.webp
The tyre is still fairly hydrophobic

s5.postimg.org_dkmakgmk7_r12coupe09.webp
The washed and dried tyre ready for the FK #350

s5.postimg.org_e4wq9eqev_r12coupe10.webp
A lightly dampened SP tyre pad , primed with FK #350

s5.postimg.org_512wmpe7r_r12coupe11.webp
Immediately after application of FK #350

s5.postimg.org_6vfr4g187_r12coupe12.webp
After just one coat, in context.

s5.postimg.org_4gnvk0kzb_r12coupe13.webp
About 20 minutes after application. Tyre _not_ buffed!


Compared to the very runny FK #108, this product is very gloopy and it's
clear that Alex was right - the 32oz bottle will last me ages!

I'm not one for shiny tyres, but in a week or three I'll be trying this out on
a car where the owner likes shiny tyres. I'll report on this in due course.

Pros
Well, first up the fantastic value for money! Considering that this is exactly
the same price as a 32oz bottle of FK #108, need I say more? I really do
wonder why it has fallen below the radar!

One thing I don't like about tyre dressings are those that make the tyre look
like it has been dressed. I much prefer a tyre that looks sharp, natural and
obviously clean. Both of these FK products produce the latter, very satisfying
effect.

One common thing that we all moan about with tyre dressings is longevity
of look, mostly because it can be a mucky process. Applying either of these
dressings is really a breeze! There's no muck, no stickiness and very little
chance of sling, oh, and the #350 is cheap! After a few regular #108AS
applications the coating will give around a month of use before needing to
be topped-up. I doubt that this product will be any different. Indeed it may
last longer. I'll report on this in due course.

Obviously, with the product being water based, it may well need a greater
application frequency if it gets wet more often. As always its a string-length
question. The "pro" point I'm getting to is that all this makes longevity much
less important. A quick top-up is just that, quick!

Cons
This product is very gloopy, so there is a possibility that it won't clean as
well as the FK #108AS - this is pure supposition at this stage; I'll report
further on this. With the anti static properties of #108, that's what the "AS"
stands for, I doubt that it will usurp it on things like my dashboard plastic.

Conclusions
Right from the beginning I've been a tremendous fan of FK #108AS, mostly
for its sheer versatility, so this product has to have things going for it for it to
impress. Being so much more concentrated, and the fact that it's water based,
makes the #350 a very attractive purchase! The only usage consideration
twixt the two is whether or not the anti-static properties are important.
Maybe only on dashboard covers, eh?

I shall now be testing the FK #350 further on all the other surfaces where I
presently use the FK #108AS - I'll report back on these, and also on the
longevity on my tyres.

FK #350 Applied to a Falken Tyre
Here are the pictures of FK #350 Tire Dressing on a Falken tyre...


s5.postimg.org_t8nhr925z_r12coupe14.webp
The tyre awaiting cleaning...

s5.postimg.org_82townrcn_r12coupe15.webp
Just as hydrophobic.

s5.postimg.org_bex1n2pfb_r12coupe16.webp
Tyre washed and dried. Even after 3 weeks, this isn't bad for the FK #108AS,
indeed, I'd not normally feel the need to add more dressing at this point.

s5.postimg.org_gwkldrebb_r12coupe17.webp
Tyre immediately after being dressed.

s5.postimg.org_4gnvk0kzb_r12coupe13.webp
Comparison with the Bridgestone tyre.

s5.postimg.org_6canv69tj_r12coupe18.webp
Dressed tyre, in context


If I'm showing the car, I normally like to dress my tyres on the day before the
show. The reason for this being that in common with other high polymer
products, it looks so much better the next day. Certainly, the finish is by no
means shabby at this point, but I'll probably prefer it tomorrow. Weather
permitting, I'll take more pictures.

20 Hours After Application
Here are the two tyres just 20 hours after application of the FK#350

s5.postimg.org_qky1gw94n_r12coupe19.webp
The Bridgestone

s5.postimg.org_ne8judv07_r12coupe20.webp
The Falken


Now, you can probably see why I apply this the day before the show, rather
than at the show.

An Important Caveat!
I know that I've said that I prefer a natural look to a tyre, rather than one
that looks like it has been purposely dressed. From my pictures, you _may_
get the impression that I'm not being honest with this. The reason being
that several weeks ago I tried another make of dressing which _did_ leave
this "Look at me, I've been dressed" finish, and there may still be some residue
of that. With rain interrupting play today, I've not had a chance to really
scrub the tyres clean.

At just £10.95 for a 32oz bottle, there is no question of value for money!
My bottle was supplied by Alex from Serious Performance. My thanks to him for
his help once again.

Regards,
Steve
 
Hello Folks,

A fine Saturday afternoon and the car gets a good valet. Wheels washed with
Chemical Guys Hose Free Eco (HFE) - 2 capfuls into about 6 litres of water.
Wheels washed with a noodle mitt and just left to dry. No rinsing.

Remainder of the paint cleaned with my bucketless ONR technique. There was
still some Sahara dust residue, but that didn't present any problems. The paint
was then treated to coat of ADS Obsidian Wax. After a very much wetter winter
than we're used to here in East Anglia, I was surprised at just how smooth the
paint was. I had been tempted to use the clay-cloth, but that can be delayed for
a while yet. I'll probably use it in late summer.

Anyway, some low sun pictures...

s5.postimg.org_6tjhjubef_r14014coupe.webp

s5.postimg.org_aefd32fxz_r14015coupe.webp

s5.postimg.org_78urcuxbr_r14016coupe.webp

s5.postimg.org_7dyimj4mv_r14017coupe.webp

s5.postimg.org_r4qqseed3_r14018coupe.webp

This picture shows how well the tyre coating has lasted. This despite the very wet
winter. Yes, it now needs topping-up, but I was surprised at how hydrophobic the
tyre was when I washed it. The last coating was applied in November!
s5.postimg.org_zcsode69j_r14019coupe.webp

These last two pictures taken when the sun had disappeared for a few moments...

s5.postimg.org_jda0tua7r_r14020coupe.webp

s5.postimg.org_606vr85dj_r14021coupe.webp


Tyres and arches now treated with FK #350...

s5.postimg.org_ctbu18lkn_r14022coupe.webp

s5.postimg.org_d4tae020n_r14023coupe.webp

The rubber always looks much better the next day, once the polymers have
had a chance to plate-out a little. The tyres are maintained with FK #108,
which is a thinner version of the #350.

Regards,
Steve
 

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Last edited:
Hello Folks,

I've been doing some more testing. Last November I had my car treated
to the ArtDeShine Octagon Formula by Matt Rowe, the UK distributor. I'm
not keen on coatings where you cannot apply wax afterward, it takes away
the therapeutic effects of waxing. So, I've been using ADS Obsidian on the
bonnet and roof of my car.

Anyway, back to today's testing. The photos below show the reaction to
ONR being sprayed on to the surface. Anyone familiar with ONR will know
that its polymers and surfactants are meant to overcome any surface tension
on the paint. So here's the sequence...

Dirty surface (light dust)...

s5.postimg.org_etxvjehbr_r14027coupe.webp

Sprayed with ONR...

s5.postimg.org_c8savvrxz_r14028coupe.webp

ONR sprayed once more onto cleaned paint which is wearing ADK Obsidian
applied over 4 months ago...

s5.postimg.org_qhrxdy6gn_r14029coupe.webp

Fresh coat of ADS Obsidian applied...

s5.postimg.org_l2j7czewn_r14030coupe.webp

...and final spray of ONR. Remember, this is ONR diluted @ 32:1, not plain water!

s5.postimg.org_h16pl2bzr_r14031coupe.webp

Here's a quick comparison twixt the bonnet with a fresh coat of Obsidian and
the front wing still wearing ADS Octagon Formula that's had several ONR
washes and maybe 4 wipes over with NGPS (diluted at 5:1) since being
treated last November...

s5.postimg.org_5nfkw4c3b_r14033coupe.webp

Regards,
Steve
 
26 October 2014

Hello Folks,

This post is a bit late, being as I took these photos at the 2014 Stamford Show.
This was the last show of the season and also the last before the car went
in for its booked damp-sanding process...

r14039acoupe.webp

r14040acoupe.webp

r14041acoupe.webp

r14042acoupe.webp

r14043acoupe.webp

The car is wearing the ADS Octagon Formula with coats of ADK Obsidian
applied to the bonnet and roof only. At this point, the coatings have been
on the car for over 10 months and show no sign of diminishing in shine or
protection. Tyres were treated with FK #350 the previous day.

I have still loads more photos to post up, especially of other cars tackled...

Regards,
Steve
 
29 October 2014

streaky;4710455 said:
Your car looks shiny enough now, goodness knows whether your proposed wetsand could make it better.
Well, thanks for the kind words, but the damp-sanding wasn't really aimed at
removing any swirling or paint damage. Rather it was to get rid of some of the
worst of the orange-peel and improve the paint's general reflectivity.

The previous post was to keep things in chronological order, as here's what
happened as I arrived at the Obsidian Detailing studio...

On arrival in Oldham the guys were still back-logged with a black car sporting
some rather hard paint. So, quite unexpectedly, I'm asked by Matt if I'd like to
get on with the preliminary clean and decon process on my car, so as to lose
as little time as possible.

You might think this a bit strange, the customer doing his own decon stage.
However, I did at the outset ask if I could be involved. I'm not one for just
sitting around watching others work, fascinating as it might be, for all of 5
minutes flat. However, all of a sudden, this is real and calls for a proper job!
Nothing, but nothing was to be missed on this occasion.

Of course, I just love wielding the ADS clay cloth, so I didn't need any second
bidding, however, it did also mean paying very close attention to every square
inch of that paint, especially in the most vulnerable areas. It just happens
these are usually the most difficult areas for me to reach. No pressure then...

So, here's the car upon arrival into the yard after a 100 mile trip from off the
farm and down the M6 at an ungodly hour...

r14050coupe.webp

r14051coupe.webp

r14052coupe.webp

Close inspection found this bit of reactive metal embedded into the roof...
(sorry for the poor pic)

r14053coupe.webp

...and then the afters. Compared to the paint I've seen on other cars as they
enter a detailing studio, I'm by no means embarrassed by these. Especially
as the car is nearly 6 years old, has never before been machine polished,
and, mostly has only ever been washed using waterless / less water methods :doublesho

r14054coupe.webp

r14055coupe.webp

That's Steven aka m2srt looking on. He turned up in the rather fruity sounding
green Ford in the next picture...

r14056coupe.webp

r14057coupe.webp

r14058coupe.webp

I'm slowly catching up. Resizing photos takes me a long while, so please bear
with me.

Regards,
Steve
 
25 November 2014

Hello Folks,

Well, I guess to keep things chronological, here's some pictures of the car
after its first ONR wash post its damp-sanding. This was a whole 10 days
later as I was under strict instructions of "no chemicals for 7 days, at least!"

The car is wearing the TAC System "Sparkle" coating, which has also been
applied to the external plastics. At long last, the black trim around the chrome
exhaust tips looks the part :thumb:

r14060coupe.webp

r14061coupe.webp

r14059coupe.webp

r14063coupe.webp

r14062coupe.webp

Regards,
Steve
 
21 December 2014

Hello Folks,

Introduction

Goodness me, it's that time of the year already, when I look over the past
year's antics. Seems that I've ignored this section for a while, but that's
probably inevitable, being that the Coupé has been wearing coatings for over
12 months now.

For 2015 I think that I'll be featuring my latest test mule in this thread, a 2009
Renault Megane Coupé. I'm now hardly using anything new on my car, not even
any wax for a while yet, so I'm glad I have another vehicle to work on.

The R5GTT has gone back to the workshop, where it's slowly being taken apart
for respray and engine overhaul. In detailing terms, there probably won't be
much to report until April 2015. I think it's going to look superb though!

Some Cars Revisited

Last year I had the pleasure of helping a guy bring his Gordon Keeble up to
a standard he was pleased with. This year I re-visited, where we worked on
his wife's Mercedes 2 seater with a clay-cloth and gave that a coat of ADS
ADK Obsidian. No photos, but both husband and wife pleased with the result.

We also gave the Gordon Keeble a quick coat of ADK and a few weeks later
in an email from the owner came the accusation that I had teflon-coated it :)
From the awards and invitations the car was picking up in its 50th year, you can
probably imagine his triumphant delight!

The Ford Granada was also re-visited, with the clay cloth doing its bit to
clear up the strange patterns on the bonnet. That car also got the ADK
treatment, with FK #1000p sealing those turbine wheels.

A New Test Mule

With the Coupé having received its ADS Octagon Formula in November 2013, I
have been reluctant to put much over it, mostly because it doesn't need it.
So, with new next-door neighbours, came a black Renault Megane Coupé, which
to my eyes deserved a bit more love than it was getting. Imagine my delight
when my offer to look after it was accepted!

This was on the clear understanding that I would be testing various products on
it. One of the first of these was .50Cal's Cover Up, a filler glaze. How about
that for serendipity? In places the Megane's paint looked like it had been Brillo
scrubbed, so it would be ideal, being that removing the swirls by machine was
out of the question.

You might notice that the SP Paint Cleaner has been re-instated in the lists
below. It was this car and its badly oxidised paint which forced that issue.
Nevertheless, it was the first product of choice in circumstances where the clay
cloth doesn't quite cut back to clean paint. That's not a frequent occurrence!

The Core Products List

Of course, compiling this term report means updating my core products list.
There isn't too much change from last year, but with some of the new potions
coming on stream, it could change quite drastically in the future.

Let's start with last year's list...

Lowiepete;4357573 said:
The 2013 Core Products List...
  • Cleaner / Shampoo - ONR for bodywork, HFE for wheels
  • Polish - [strike]gTechniq P1[/strike] Liquid Shine Zero Swirl
  • [strike]Pre-Wax Cleaner - OPS / SP Paint Cleaner[/strike]
  • Clay - Redundant too, replaced by ADS Clay Cloth
  • QD - SP Show Detailer
  • Sealant - FK#1000p / Hybrid of SP Sealant and Wet Glaze 2 / FK #2180 sealant
  • Paste Wax - Harlys / FK#2685 Pink Wax / ADS Obsidian Wax
  • Liquid Wax - Serious Performance Spray Wax / CG Blacklight
  • Tyres / Trim - FK#350 / FK#108AS
  • Glass - [strike]gTechniq G3[/strike] ADS ArtDeGlass

...and now to the 2014 list
  • Cleaner / Shampoo - ONR for bodywork, HFE for wheels
  • Polish - Liquid Shine Zero Swirl
  • Pre-Wax Cleaner - Serious Performance Paint Cleaner
  • Clay - replaced by ADS Clay Cloth
  • Glaze - .50Cal Cover Up
  • QD - SP Show Detailer (now in Version 3) / ADS Nano Gloss Paint Sealant
  • Sealant - FK#1000p / FK #2180 sealant
  • Paste Wax - Harlys / FK#2685 Pink Wax / ADS Obsidian Wax
  • Liquid Wax - Serious Performance Spray Wax / CG Blacklight
  • Tyres / Trim - FK#350 / FK#108AS
  • Glass - ADS ArtDeGlass
As ever, additions are highlighted in green.

The Product Highlights of 2014

The first of these has to be the "Cover Up" glaze, although it does have one
slight draw-back: it's not kind to your skin. As a man who quite enjoys a close
connection with paint, wearing protective gloves is still a bit alien. It is worth it
though, the product works and it seems that it'll take all-comers in terms of
LSP covering. Unlike other products in its class, it has little or no protective
qualities of its own.

As for waterless wash products, Stuart (Spoony) sent me some from the 3D
Products range. Apparently a very big American firm, with a reputation to match.
The cleaner worked very well, to the point where I didn't break out the ONR
after just a couple of panels, like I usually do. Waterless washes need to lose
their dollar/pound parity in the UK before they can be considered economical
though. That isn't the fault of the importer. Wet products are heavy and costly
to transport, though I think that claim is a tad over-egged.

Probably the biggest battle this year has been between 3 QD products. The
first of these as a bit of a revelation was the ADS Nano Gloss (NGPS). This has
been an incremental version. V1, which I was introduced to late in 2013, had
a funky green colour and nondescript smell. Version 2 is changed to a more
sober blue but with the addition of a pleasant, slightly clinical smell.

The idea of watering NGPS down to do various tasks not only makes it extremely
versatile, it wins in the value for money stakes too. Quite apart from its superb
finish with notable slickness, it also wins with how easy it is to use, though less
is more! You dilute it for any cleaning purposes, and use it stronger for boosting
protection. How about that for simplicity?

Next came an old favourite, the Serious Performance Show Detailer. Come hell
or high-water, nothing will force this product out of my armoury. This year came
the release of Version 3, with a marked change of colour and claims of a small
increase in longevity. Who cares about the latter, it's such a joy to use. If we
talk about the slickness stakes, there is little to choose between it and NGPS.

Now, we come to a new kid on the block. There's always a danger of experiencing
much of a muchness with QD products, though with this newcomer, it looks very
promising indeed! There's some bold cleaning claims, and possibly even bolder
protection claims on the bottle of Power Maxed QD. Like with the manufacturer's
claims for the waterless wash above, I'm not swayed by such hype, I'm looking
for action!

I wasn't disappointed, mostly because my testing was done _before_ I had read
any blurb. That was an interesting exercise, and it certainly tested my mettle as
a reviewer. It comes last in the value for money stakes, and in terms of its
spray head. There's no doubting it's a top quality cleaner, but I fear I wasted
a lot of product, needlessly. This is going to be addressed which will make it a
contender, especially for shows.

With both the NGPS and Power Maxed QD there's a trend emerging, where some
QD products could eventually make the physical act of waxing an anachromism.
I absolutely hate that idea, but you cannot stop the march of progress! When
QDs claim to withstand subsequent washing, what's afoot? Is this to be believed,
or should we brush it aside as another part of marketing hype?

If it is to be believed, it makes winter protection a breeze. I'll be testing the
Power Maxed product further, mostly to see what happens when I try a proper
wax top-up over it. I'll also attempt to test longevity, but I'm still pondering
over how to achieve that. It's good job I have a local test-mule :thumb:

The Year's Real Highlight

Of course the biggest step change for me in 2014 was taking my car back to that
man in Oldham. The purpose being for him and his mate to wield machines against
its paint for the first time ever, after nearly six years of ownership. I speak, of
course, of Matt & Lee (stangalang & goodfella36) from Obsidian Detailing, who
literally slaved over that car in a partial wet-sand treatment.

The original objective was to remove or flatten the orange-peel and then
re-apply the ADS Octagon kit. Passion aside, time didn't allow for the latter, so
the car received an alternative coating in the form of the TACSystem Sparkle.
Boy oh boy, the finish achieved by these fellahs just has to be seen in the metal!

I get compliments that I don't deserve and people wonder out loud just how it is
that it looks so clean! Needless to say, I'm utterly thrilled by the result and I
cannot thank Matt and Lee enough. I just hope that I can do them justice by
looking after it properly. It has become a point of honour to do so!

So, The Future?

Well, the highlight of 2015 to look forward to will be completion of the R5GTT
restoration in March. Again, how lucky am I in finding the shell to be so sound?
There's an air of excitement at the workshop which is infectious. I'm certain that
it's too much for a chap of a certain age, but what the heck!

2015 will be the car's 25th birthday and I'm planning a detailing themed party
to celebrate. The car will emerge wearing the ADS Octagon Formula on the
outside and with some tasteful highlights to the interior. If you're within reach
of Lowestoft on Saturday 25 April 2015, then I hope you'll come.

With Season's Greetings,
Steve
 
28 May 2015

Hello Folks,

9 months on from its damp-sanding, here's the Laguna Coupé? back on the
farm in Cumbria. Following a winter exposed to the elements, it's had an ADS
Blue Lotion treatment to the horizontal surfaces, with a quick coating of H2O-S.

Having got a bit dusty due to some dirty roads, you get used to that in the
Eden Valley, it was given a bucketless wash followed by Version 3 of NGPS.

All I've got to hope is that the guys from Obsidian Detailing? (stangalang and
Goodfella36) approve of my ongoing maintenance. The car drew some quite
unexpected, but very welcome attention at the Fastlane Car Show? earlier
this month...

r15004coupe.webp

r15005coupe.webp

r15006coupe.webp

r15007coupe.webp

r15008coupe.webp

r15009coupe.webp

r15010coupe.webp

r15011coupe.webp

r15012coupe.webp

r15013coupe.webp

r15014coupe.webp

r15015coupe.webp

r15016coupe.webp

Regards,
Steve
 
11 November 2015 - Spot the Difference...

Hello Folks,

Ever since I had the wheels refurbished on my car, I've been toying with this
idea - the seeds were sown by Matt at Obsidian Detailing, so, from this...

r15006coupe.webp

...to this...

r15043coupe.webp

r15044coupe.webp

r15045coupe.webp

To begin with I wasn't struck on the idea, mostly because I don't want to
do anything with the car that isn't reasonably reversible at some point. If I,
or a future owner, want to return it to OE, then painting the grille area with
primer and topcoat would make this almost impossible. Step in Plastidip and
all such a change back needs is a bit of probably fiddly peeling.

Also, I wasn't sure that I'd like the effect because it does make a bold
change , however, having seen a picture of another car with it done, I've
done the deed. I'm dead pleased with just how much cleaner the lines are
with less to distract the eye. :thumb:

Regards,
Steve
 
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