adjustable shocks come standard !!

[Anonymous]

Just read on the french forum a message from Babrs, a reliable source I also know from Renault, who mentioned the standard shocks on the Vee seems to be adjustable!!

As far as I've found out up to now, you need to take them out to perform the job on the front ones, the rear ones could be done without taking them of.

I will definitively research this more, and have a lunchbreak with Babrs to have more info on this.

I think some people on here would like to know too.

It would mean that the Vee has the yellow konis, in combination with eibach springs!

 

[k1ano]

Good info Harry, keep us posted

Martin

 

[ColinG]

this is very interesting news..

adjustable in what way? just damping?

 

[Anonymous]

the clio 182 trophy does too. 0 - 40 clicks of sachs adjustable dampening. so savage on track clicked up to 35ish

 

[phillv6]

This is very interesting Harry now that would be great news [smilie=bom.gif] [smilie=bom.gif]

Phill

 

[Anonymous]

Well as promised, I've had a quick lunch with Babrs, and the shock are adjustable. Babrs viewed the original engineering specs, and they mention adjustable. At the time TWR and koni decided not to make this public because they didn't want the public to tamper around with them, since thay already had a big struggle with the balance of the car.

And indeed Babrs did try to stiffen up the rear ones a bit, closing it one turn instead of the standard 1/2 turn, an he wasn't too happy about the result. So try with care.

My advice on the schock settings would anyway be softer on the rear, and a bit stiffer on the front.

The settings only influence the rebound, so more of a rallydriver adjustment, then a trackdriver adjustment.

Babrs tried it on his RS1 with RS2 subframe.

For the modifications, you need to take out the shocks, fully compress them, and then you can adjust them, anticlockwise fully open.

 

[ColinG]

me thinks I shall leave well alone lol

car handles good enough for fast road use

 

[k1ano]

Excellent information Harry

I think a Wiki is in order on this one - with a warning


Martin

 

[Anonymous]

Yes it seems interesting until you realize the job involved.........

Taking off the wheels, removing upright, and torsionbar bolts, compressing the springs (I think), taking out the shocks, adjust them over the thumb, (even I am not sure about neccesary adjustments, apart from the one I mentioned) put the whole thing back together, and then the most important, realign the car totally.
If you want to experiment a bit, take a stampcard for reduction at the aligners. [smilie=doubt.gif]

 

[k1ano]

Sure Harry but you have provided the inside information which enables other to have a go now that they understand the effort involved.

Probably easier to get some top adjustable shocks though in the long run.

I expect most will NOT try this but you never know.

Martin

 

[Missing Link]

Old post i know but seemed relevant to post it here,

Does anybody know what the standard settings were ??

I've just picked up a full new set of Koni's and would ideally set them up before offering them up to the car.

Also the car will have been sitting on the same springs now for about 10 years now, where can i get new or better replacements...

Cheers lads.

 

[thunderstarter]

would that be the set of new Konis that were on EBay?

 

[Missing Link]

It would indeed......

 

[Eastlmark]

 

[pturner3]

I very recently rebuilt my suspension, and had the shocks serviced by a Koni rep.
I asked him about the settings and said 1 turn in on all four.

When I initially removed them, I checked the settings - Fronts were 1/2 turn in. Rears were 1 turn in.

I set them with 1 turn in on all four as recommended. I havent taken the car on track, but I'm really pleased with the feel of the car after I finished the rebuild. Much more stable now, especially at high speed. It should be noted that the car is very sensitive to the wheel alignment settings. I can confirm this becuase when I drove the car to the wheel alignment centre after finishing the work, I had only set up using rough measurements - it was scary!

Have had 4 wheel alignment done twice now, and it makes a huge difference.

Might also be worth getting your new ones serviced before fitting, sicne they've prob been sat around for a while. I'm no expert on shocks, but when I bought two new ones from RPD originally, they felt way too underdamped. The boxes they came in no doubt spent some time sat on the shelf in France. I wasnt happy to fit them and returned them. I could be wrong about them being faulty, but decided to go with a service on mine. Was only 160 quid, and that was with a paint.

Hope that helps

Cheers
Phil

 

[Missing Link]

Hi Phil, Good bit of info there. Was this on a Mk1 or your Mk2...?

You probably did, but did you prime your shocks before you fitted them, I know that they can develop air locks if left lying on their side for any length of time.

I'll probably send the old one's off for a refurb, Chances of ever getting a new set again could be very slim.

Also, what did you do about topmounts ? standard or up-rated.

Cheers sean

 

[Missing Link]

Repost.... DOH

 

[pturner3]

Hi Sean

Yes, this was for my Mk2. I did prime them before fitting - tried that with the ones that came from Renault but I wasnt happy.
I know that Renault say rear right shock absorber is no longer available! Guess if one ever gets bent or beyond economical repair, its comforting to know that KWs are available. I was tempted to go KW, but I just want to keep the car standard ideally.

I replaced the top mounts with standard ones..actually rear ones are made by LEMFÖRDER , as are many the wishbone ball joints and track rod ends. I got the rear top mounts supplied by a friend of mine, and I'm not 100%, but they may have been a laguna part. I'm pretty sure the rear track rod ends are laguna. Was tempted to go for solid front top mounts, but again, involves drilling into the bodywork and I wasnt too keen on that at the time...although I'm sure they will be an improvement.

I originally bought two front wishbones that were for 182 clio, but the balljoint bolts are smaller than the V6, so it wasnt going to be a case of swapping the ball joint over. Interesting, as posts I had read on here suggested that the wishbones were identical. They are pretty much identical, just the bolt hole diameter that differs. Ok, I could have drilled out the holes, but I didnt have all the workshop equipment available. In the end, I bought new bushes and made a jacking tool to press them in and out of the original wishbone. The only parts I didnt replace were the front wishbone ball joints because of that ludicrous price! Annoying that LEMFÖRDER can't supply them direct.

Car was transformed though after. I'm really happy with the suspension and handling now. For reference, my car had 27000miles on it when I bought it, and was unstable, even after full wheel alignment etc. Not now though!

If you send yours to Koni, look on the following link:

http://www.koni.uk.com/home/index.php?o ... Itemid=126

I used Paul Drake at Raceline Suspension because he was nearest. To be honest, I wouldn't use him again. Although a good price, he was very unreliable with replies to his phone, and I researched him on Google to find many other Koni users experiencing the same unreliability as myself.

Hope that helps!

Cheers

Phil

 

[Missing Link]

Thanks for the time buddy, It all helps.

I've always modded my cars, But for some reason, Like you i'm just keeping it standard.

I have AST solid mounts on my 172 track car, they are great and no drilling , BUT they are noisy and too harsh for road work.


I just took the wheels of for a refurb, Now i'm into brakes, suspension and bushes....... It's going to be an expensive winter :rofl: :rofl:

 

[pturner3]

No problem!


Last winter was the expensive one for me. I think I must have spent about 7 grand.. and list goes on!
Just renewing/overhauling/ polishing things to make it feel new again..

But you gotta love it!