A few questions... R11 E6J

[briera2]

Ok so nearly there on the energy engine in the R11 but a few questions about wiring and the carb.

First, could someone tell me what the third pipe connector is on the back of the carb? I've looked up the Haynes and a workshop manual but they don't show this?



Next is my alternator. I'm using the alternator from the C1J and for some reason it has two capacitors to ground. Does anyone know why?



Lastly and my biggest problem is the ignition. The E6J ignition module has three wires which are all striped green. One is yellow which (correct me if I'm wrong) should be 12V, black is ground and white is tach. On the R11 harness I have purple which I measured 0.6V and I presume is tach, brown which I measured 0V and must be ground and murky white which is measured at 12V. I get no spark when I have a plug connected straight to the main cable. I'm tired so I could be mixing the white and brown wires. I'll check tomorrow.

Also, I'm an idiot and forgot (and can't figure out) what order the plugs go into the distributor. No.1 is marked though.

 

[tob123]

the other pipe is float chamber vent/ breather, which goes in the air box housing.
on the alt, not sure, the interference / noise?

 

[briera2]

Cool, thanks. I'll check that out when it's bright. I haven't even put on the filter housing yet and that's probably why I forgot what it was. As for the alternator, that sounds good enough for me. Only the ignition now if anyone has any ideas?

 

[Chris H]

alt as mentioned noise suppressor.

And the breather too.

The ignition module. Theres 2 plugs that are used, the middle one on the module is for the crank sensor.

This is a direct plug in from the crank sensor and it should be the 2 wire type.

The other plug which is 3 pins. Now this on the 19's has the connectors at the bottom which I call the right way up, the clios etc had them mounted upside down.

So the left plug 3 pin on the module is where the earth, switched live and tacho feed are.

The middle pin is negative (permanent)

The right hand pin (next to the crank sensor plug) is your switched live and iirc its pink on them usually.

The left hand/outer pin is the tacho feed.

You can get them running with a direct wire to the module from the battery and shorting the starter with a screwdriver.

You need the engine cranking to get a spark.

The modules are notorious for dying.

The correct module has the vacuum advance unit on it.

 

[briera2]

Thanks Chris.
I'll have another go in the morning. I'm just fed up at this stage with it and I've killed the battery more than once. I have two flywheel sensors, two modules and even a spare coil from an efi module. One module and coil are from a volvo 440 1.8l I got in the scrap yard but it looks identical (Bendix with vacuum advance). Who knows, it could be broken and it isn't the first time I've bought junk from the scrap yard. The starter works on the key so I think I'll try your suggestion and wire the module straight to the battery. The way I was testing was by having one ignition lead unplugged and a spare spark plug in it rested on the windscreen so when I'm inside and tyring to start it I can see a spark (which has yet to happen!!!).

 

[Chris H]

does the rev needle give an initial jump when the ignition is turned on?

The modules are notorious for just dying.

They go like lightbulbs, working then not. I have even had the car idling then it cut out and the module had died.

Have you check the coil resistances as well?

 

[Chris H]

also is your spark plug a new one? I have fallen foul of a dead used plug before. I use an adjustable spark tester on old stuff (not C.O.P.) like this.

 

[briera2]

Well it turns out the original module had gone bad. I wired the volvo module to the battery and I could hear the spark (too bright to see). I realised in my frustration before that I never wired the volvo unit up properly. I had the 12V and tach swapped. Only thing now is I can't figure out what order to plug the cables into the distributor. Only an idiot wouldn't take a picture beforehand! Number one is marked and that's it. I know they go in ascending order from the gearbox on the engine itself.

As for the carb breather hose I can't see where it goes (I never even had the hose to begin with). The airbox plugs into the green connector (first picture) on top of the engine. At least this is how it was when I pulled apart the scrap 19.

 

[Chris H]

plug order is 1 then going anti clockwise 3 4 2

the breather pipe was just a pipe from the carb to under the passenger headlight

 

[briera2]

Well it ran however rough though. At least that's sorted. I couldn't run it for more than a few seconds as it has no exhaust and I don't think the neighbourhood would appreciate me revving it up. I'm sure it was misfiring but it was too tough to tell with the deafening sound. When I leave it in for the exhaust to be done (the remains of the old manifold I cut off is more or less rust welded after 28 years) I'll get them to adjust the carb etc. As for the breather, I'll find somewhere to secure a length of pipe when I'm feeling motivated.

Thanks again!

 

[Chris H]

the pipe just has to be dangled down to the road, so if the float sticks the fuel will drop to the ground not get sprayed over the manifold or let fumes into the cabin.

Did you strip the carb down to clean it?

Tappets adjusted?

o a compression test?

 

[briera2]

I didn't strip the carb down yet as I wanted to see the car run but now it looks like it's the culprit. I'll have a look when the exhaust is sorted on Monday or maybe just let the garage have a look. I've no experience with carbs but I gave it a good scrub with carb cleaner when I first got it. It was packed with gunk and grime. The engine itself is perfect though. When it was fuel injected and in my 1993 R19, it ran flawlessly and was surprisingly quiet so compression and tappets are fine. It didn't burn a drop of oil.

 

[briera2]

I was talking with my Dad and he had a few ideas. I didn't actually know at the time I ran the engine that it was actually backfiring. A big plume of vapour out of the carb when the engine stalled. I'm starting to think maybe I didn't do such a good job changing the timing belt. I was really careful to make sure everything was marked up and nothing moved when I changed it though. If it's off a few teeth would that cause this? At this stage I don't think I'll touch it and leave a garage to handle it. Don't want to make it any worse and I don't have a timing light.

 

[Chris H]

a garage you will just be throwing money away.

Check the belt again, its not hard even in your unusual fitment.

Bear in mind fuel will be ejected from the carb if it stalls or is turned off (to a lesser degree) because the engine will rotate backwards slightly when stopping due to whichever cylinder has the compression stroke.

Carb clean do it yourself, a garage will charge hundreds for an overhaul kit and most likely balls it up.

A quick carb clean technique is to rev it up to about 3 grand then with a big rag starve the engine of air, this creates a big vacuum in the carb and can clear a lot of crap out without having to actually strip it.

Carb off, pop the choke flap lever off then you can unscrew the top from the base, clean it all out. The float will have some debris in it most likely. Just clean it all put don't adjust anything it shouldn't need it.

 

[briera2]

Thanks again. I was a bit worried about the garage and the carb alright as I'd say most wouldn't have a clue what to do. When I changed the belt, the cam and crank lined up with their respective markings on the engine and I never moved anything so maybe it's time for new ignition leads? I realised today that I actually threw out my known working leads and I'm using the questionable ones from the scrap 19 I never saw run at all! I went out and bought the only set I could find in stock anywhere in Halfords and they look rubbish. The quality is questionable with bad moulding marks and bits of jagged rubber but I'll try them tomorrow or after the exhaust is done so the town doesn't hate me.

 

[briera2]

Halford's finest have solved the final problem. It fired up straight away!