only bolt on option that keeps everything working is the RS 133 hubs, but, this makes it wider and may cause you wheel fitment issues. the gt runs a different abs trigger pickup to the earlier clios (172) from memory they physically fit but the abs wont be happy
And both those options are not really available where I am anyways.
Will pick the new drums then.
Sometimes it’s just does not go right.
Yesterday went to garage with plans to get brakes back.
In fact, realized that I got the wrong brake shoes (somehow, there are few versions).
Tried to fix number plate lights, left one was not working. Now it works, but the right one does not.
Need a new plug, existing one is corroded to hell.
Tried to fix rear wiper, which works sometimes, even with replaced motor. Got nowhere, as I could not trace the issue,
even with all disassembled.
Right, we are back again.
Due to winter, priorities and other stuff, Twingo has been on lift since new year.
Just recently I got back to working on it. Made new rear brake hardlines (decided that old ones are a bit too crusty).
Got the rear right brake assembled back. Will also need to completely flush the brake fluid, just to be sure.
And looking forward to do a clutch. But there I have the question - how much of a pain in the backside it its?
Do I need to take the whole front subframe off to take the gearbox out?
Yes you have remove the front subframe. Be careful with the subframe bolts as they often seize in so spray penetrant into the hole where the captive nut sits.
I had all the battery tray bolts snap into the aluminium bracket which was a pain to sort out.
Undo the steering rack from the inside of the car and then drop the subframe with the rack. When I did mine, the rack was stuck on the joint inside the car so I unbolted it off the subframe and left it hanging.
Not really much to add as of now.
In late April finally mounted summer wheels on it.
195/50 R15 Kumho HS52 on some Borbet wheels. Need new hub caps, as one is missing entirely and 2 are missing stickers.
Otherwise, it’s my current daily, as Volvo is going though major oil leak fix.
I start to feel a need to fix a/c, but having 2 cars dismantled is not what I fancy right now.
Need to ask for help here.
After replacing the ac condenser, now it’s clear that there is a leak (large one at that) on the interior side of a/c.
Given the fact, that I might need to remove the evaporator altogether, it’s probably easier to remove the dash and get all the access.
Is there a guide somewhere, how to do this? Youtube, seems to offer only videos for gauge cluster.
@CreweTube any tips here?
Removing dash is pretty simple technically but a lot of bolts, mostly torx ones. I dont have a video dedicated to it on my channel (but have tons of other ones that loosely touch on it), such as:
Doesnt show the process but the aftermath, theres 1-2 torx bolts in the sides of the dash accessible when doors are open, numerous under the trays on top, and 4-6 in the centre bit. You may also need to remove the steering wheel/cowling to get it fully out.
My Twingo never had AC standard fitted so my most recent video on doing an AC Delete skips it all as I never had the interior parts
I managed to get the dash out quite quickly - about an hour or so. Was not so difficult after all.
Got to access the a/c part on the inside, but could not remove necessary part from heater housing to access the evaporator.
And bolts on the expansion valve goes in from the engine bay. It will be easier to take the whole heater housing out to sort it all.
But I could not find any part numbers for evaporator - seems that it does not exists as a separate part.
If someone has the number, I would be glad to get it.
Otherwise, I ordered whole heater unit with a/c in (from breakers, of course) and when it arrives, will try to combine
something from two. Replacement is for manual controls, so I will try to get the evaporator out of it and check for leaks.
If that one is good, then it is a replacement job. Otherwise, I will need to learn how to braze aluminum.
Well, this one took some effort.
Package arrived on Friday, surprisingly quickly.
So, in the evening I took the evaporator core out from it, mocked up pressure tester from bicycle tube
stretch with valve and blocked the kitchen sink. And - no bubbles. So far, promising.
Then it was another effort to get access to take out the old one. Especially, getting to the
expansion valve bolts from engine bay.
Somehow, took the old one out, put new one back in, together with new cabin filter. And new o rings,
where I had them. By midnight, it was connected enough, so I put in the remains from DIY refrigerant kit bottle
to see, if it holds. And no pressure drop!
Left the mess, got myself a gin and tonic and some sleep.
In the morning, quite rapidly assembled the dash back together. Of course, handful of bolts remained unused.
Booked a quick appointment in nearest service station and went there.
Pressure test held and got all the necessary refrigerant in.
All in all, around 110eur for both parts and refill.
I’d say, system could be a bit more efficient, but that is more down to it’s working logic,
not the cooling performance. Anyways, it’s miles better than no a/c at all.
Also, failed MOT earlier this month - right side ball joint has a play and left dipped beam was too low.
As ball joint has around 6k km (replaced it last year), I can blame either bad quality or terrible roads.
Probably both. For headlight - will see, what’s there. Anyway, those are minor problems.
So, some progress was made.
Replaced the bad ball joint and adjusted the left headlight. MOT passed.
Also, rattling noise is gone now - turns out, it was ball joint after all.
Did some deferred maintenance as well.
Replaced spark plugs and leads, adjusted the valves and replaced valve cover gaskets in the process.
Also, replaced all engine mounts. Mine still had stamped lower mount, installed the aluminum twisted one.
And, while trying to replace right axle seal, found out that right outer CV joint boot is torn and is spitting grease.
With second try, managed to get the one that fits. But as I was not able to get the joint separated from shaft, had to do it from the other end.
Hence, repacked the middle joint once more.
Otherwise, it had been a reliable daily driver, racking up miles quite rapidly (as volvo is still in service), averaging something around 6.8l/100km in long term.
Also, took a look - evaporator has problems with icing, but I’m not sure, how the climate control reads that temperature and operates it.
Diagrams does not show any signs of dedicated temperature sensor.
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Oh it most definitely is the correct place for this.
Welcome BTW!
10k km driven, time for oil change. New Elf 900 5w30 in, filter on, lets go.
For some time I have a broken PCV (?) pipe, that from time to time snaps off.
Just before that filter thingy.
Hence question - what is that? One way valve, or what?
Cause original part is quite expensive and I was thinking about replacing it with just a regular hose.
One way valve for crankcase re breath, age/heat harden and snap, cause irregular idle, I’ve glued and put heat shrink on them, bet you can get generic and replace, it’s the valve that goes brittle, pipe is tough stuff
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Watched the latest episode of project binky and that reminded myself, that twingo sounds like a vacuum cleaner when reaching some revs.
Does anyone has suggestions, what fits on the exhaust side, to make it a bit more sporty?
Last Monday threated the car to a new rear shocks. Kayaba ones, as with the fronts. Had a thought about Bilstein B8, but single B8 cost more than pair of Kayaba.
Maybe sometime in the future. But ride quality improved anyways, now it’s much more composed over all kinds of bumps.
Anyway, had an idea to switch this one to Corsa OPC, that came up for sale, for surprisingly cheap.
Know, that this is not the target forum, but maybe there are opinions about it?