Can do, just helps keep the cost down. This one took two days longer to strip than expect due to seized and rusty bolts!
If you want to fully strip and use a sled/trolley to transport then let me know.
Haz, what brand of Zinc primer do you use?
I might have some front subframe bolts. Aftermarket but work perfectly fine. @la21t had some off of me. I’ll check stock.
Non in particular, whatever weld through aerosol the paintshop sends. I tend to just use it on small bits when wanting to crack on. I prefer etch as it bites into the metal rather than sitting on top.
Good stuff, I may have spares but would prefer new.
Any luck with the rear arm bolts?
Making a little more progress around the car. A small repair piece for the os floor
Fitted
Sandblasted
Etched and a repair to the chassis leg
Along with etching other prices
Flipped over and with a few tweaks the jacking point main section fitted
There’s still a few scabby bits, between skins, like the exhaust hanger
Removed
Cleaned up for etching
New plate
Hangers cleaned up and blasted
Attached
Weld through primer to reverse
And re fitted
Rusty ns inner sill to tackle
What’s left of the Ns boot floor prepped
Pieces cut
During fitting
Blasted
Aswell as the inside and etched
Outer fitted, more work required
Cleaning up more areas around the boot floor
Etched to protect
More blasting and etching to other areas, os boot floor
Ns footwell previous repair
And the front subframe mounting points
More templates and pieces
Fitted
Etched
A few more scabs found in the boot
But thought I best tackle the os rear mounting point. Blasted up for a fresh start
And a quick blast of the ns
Etched up
As the ns
Underside looking pretty clean now
First os rear mount plate fitted
Cleaned up and next prepped
Fitted and folded
Etched between layers
Including the inside
A few more pieces made and etched
A bit of bending
Mostly fitted
Front capping with awful welds!
Etched between layers again
Cleaned up and final layers fitted
And etched again
As was the arb, cleaned and blasted while watching paint dry!
Although it’s getting covered in gravitex, you can still make out contours, so some fibreglass paste to the ns floor repair
With some filler
And of course the os rear mount
And the wheel arch
Cleaned up and finished with primer
And the floor too
Cleaning up and etching more into the rear wheel arch areas
More scabs, triple skin. All 3 peeled back, blasted and weld through primered. Hammered back, the 3 welded together
With and infill piece added
Blasting to the ns inner sill outer
And a little more etching
Getting there!
Honestly if this was mine it would be coke cans by now.
Well. One or two coke cans cos there was only enough decent metal left for that many!
That can be arranged 
Agreed, it should have, it’s only had 26 pieces to fix it so far! Looking back at the earlier pics I’d forgotten how rusty it was.
epic work
This has been left to the side for quite a while so I’ve pulled my finger out again. Unfortunately certain bits hadn’t been finished so rust had returned on a few areas so once again back to derusting.
Due to the lulls the plan is to clean up what was left good and tackle a few other areas in an attempt to get things sealed off and closer to paining incase there’s another lull!
Main good areas cleaned up and recoated
Gravitex to all good areas
And once cured some sealer applied to all the good joints, along with extra in the problematic areas
Finishing a bit more on the nsr boot corner
Cleaning up and repairs to door
Moving into the nsr rear door shut, upper sill and arch, and some boot floor pieces
Keeping to the ns, continued onto the rear subframe mount
More plates
A repeat of the other side
Trying to get more of the floor complete, next was the front sill corner
Followed on with the jacking point section
This side requires a little extra to make pretty but just getting the bulk done
A little extra to be done in the bay
Extra smoothing of the floor
Blending of os boot floor corner
To be continued. .
Amazing Welding Mate!
You must really like doing this . I have no idea how you are so patient !
My cap doffed. If the 21 TOC was still around I would put you forward for a knighthood.
This welder is very hit/miss on looking nice, good job there’s always filler on top!
Erm, I suppose so once I get into it. There can be lots of boring prepwork and thinking beforehand but the final result can be rewarding. By far the worst I’ve worked on!
Will make mine seem like a walk in the park.
Probably.
Cracking stuff mate, keep going, it has to run out of rust eventually lol
Come on Dave - you’ve owned old Renaults for long enough. If you think it’s run out of rust you just haven’t looked in the right places! It will also be making more as quickly as it can:)
Hopefully! There was lots hiding under the sealer. About 45 plates so far.
More again this week while on a roll, continuing with the ns inner sill, chopping and more plates
Finally on with the outer at long last!
Joining the floor back to the sill
More filler work
As good as it it’s getting for now and primered
On side complete, ish. Made a start on the other side. Not wanting to chop too much out as it didn’t warrant the extra work so mainly plated for strength
Slowly working into the rear arch and quarter while the muck can still exit the sill
Started fillering but ran out, must have missed some pics of the ns boot corner welding
An early nsr arch repair finished off
And a bit of sealer on the steering rack mount
Awaiting supplies . .
Pretty sure if you replace any more of the chassis it’s going to get a Q-plate LOL
QU4D R0T ?
55 plates fitted, another 10 or so to go then i should be able to move onto the main bodywork.
Haz you are a wizard with the welder!!!
Any more updates on this?