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Oil Pump Shimming
- Thread starter Adey
- Start date
DaveL485
Staff member
Yeah. See your oil pump?
Find this bit, its a spring held in by a split pin. Take the split pin out CAREFULLY, drop a washer in on top of the spring (you only need a small shim, too big and pressure will rocket) then push the spring/shim down and re-insert the split pin.
Its that easy. You can see my "shim" (washer) in the pic above.
I will say again though, do not over-shim it or it'll blow the oil filter seal and piss oil everywhere, especially when cold and the oil is thick.
Find this bit, its a spring held in by a split pin. Take the split pin out CAREFULLY, drop a washer in on top of the spring (you only need a small shim, too big and pressure will rocket) then push the spring/shim down and re-insert the split pin.
Its that easy. You can see my "shim" (washer) in the pic above.
I will say again though, do not over-shim it or it'll blow the oil filter seal and piss oil everywhere, especially when cold and the oil is thick.
I have had lots of problems with the cam wearing its way through the block. I changed oil to Millers 10 - 60w after speaking to the rep when he came to work. I based this on the figures they had for film strenght which were more consistant and higher than alot of the other oils out there.
I am in the process of getting a block line bored to get the Group 2 / Turbo2 bearings fitted if some other people were interested i may get 3 or 4 blocks done and sell them on a exchange basis. But its not cheap I think with bearings and manchining your looking at £500 a block.
I also use the increased capicity oil pump from mecaparts which has been really good.
I am in the process of getting a block line bored to get the Group 2 / Turbo2 bearings fitted if some other people were interested i may get 3 or 4 blocks done and sell them on a exchange basis. But its not cheap I think with bearings and manchining your looking at £500 a block.
I also use the increased capicity oil pump from mecaparts which has been really good.
DaveL485
Staff member
I know someone who does outstanding line-bore work and his prices are ridiculous for quality of work. I'll put you in touch if you want. He skimmed my cam caps down and line bored all the cam bearings then honed them, fitted my double springs and valves, seats and lapped them in, skimmed the head and vapour blasted everything for £180.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b...D1-A0EE-CCEEACE3234A-386-000000327812D953.jpg
He also line bored and sleeved a 21Turbo heads cam runners (which are fully cast, and all five cam bearings are different sizes!) for a friend of mine and that was very reasonable too (i'll check cost if you're interested). Of course the advantage of this is that you can sleeve using something a lot more wear-resistant than the block, and hone it to retain oil too. Just a thought!
so you would suggest leaving as is for now?
I'm not sure really because I have also seen std N/A gordinis with badly worn blocks, but i have always driven my turbo hard as i use it for hillclimbing. I'd say if the new cam isn't more lift than an atmo (catcams web site has the std profiles on) then you should be pretty safe.
DaveL485
Staff member
The 21 head was line bored and sleeved with phosphor bronze bushes (See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphor_bronze)
Each bush was bespoke (as I said before all five runners are a different internal diameter, and solid cast, ie, no cam caps you thread the cam in from the front)
My buddy remembers the cost as in the low-to-mid £200's, so lets call it £250, 4-5 years ago.
I have to take my engine bits to him soon (I travel 60 miles from Coventry to Oxford to use this chap), if you send me some pics i'll see if he can quote you?
Each bush was bespoke (as I said before all five runners are a different internal diameter, and solid cast, ie, no cam caps you thread the cam in from the front)
My buddy remembers the cost as in the low-to-mid £200's, so lets call it £250, 4-5 years ago.
I have to take my engine bits to him soon (I travel 60 miles from Coventry to Oxford to use this chap), if you send me some pics i'll see if he can quote you?
That sounds like a good price, I'll get some photos for you. It will be boring out 3 bearings in the block to take plain bearing i will supply these.
I would be interested in what he would charge to make the bearing as well as boring the block. I live about 60miles south of Oxford so not too far for me to go.
I would be interested in what he would charge to make the bearing as well as boring the block. I live about 60miles south of Oxford so not too far for me to go.
DaveL485
Staff member
I would recommend having him make the bearing too. I'll be down there in the next week, so chuck me some pics I can use to explain to [email protected] 
DaveL485
Staff member
No but if you want to call him yourself the link is below to his website. I'd imagine pricing would be difficult without seeing it though.
http://www.gardiasengineservices.co.uk/
TNT Andy
Well-Known Member
I have 10/60 Mobil 1 in there, and generally running around and low pressure boosting sees no pressure drop at all.
However, once the oil is upto say 60 deg c, it's amazing how quickly the pressure drops off when the revs drop to near cutting out. This does not even register on the oe gauge.
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