5 GT Turbo New carburettor for Renault 5 Super GT Turbo

[Jpu121265]

Hi lads.

I am currently on with a GT Turbo that has sat for around 20 years, it's not in bad nick overall, he brought it to me because it ran like a dog (hardly surprising when you think how long it has sat!). Went to tune the carb up, even with the mixture screw wound all the way in it is running far too rich (confirmed with a colourtune), changed the mixture screw which made no difference.

I'm a dab hand with an SU on a Mini but must admit my experience with the Solex is limited.

Took the carb off to see what is going on, it's obviously very poorly. The water galleries in the throttle plate at the bottom are completely blocked, the accelerator pump was stuck on, photo attached.

It seems to be a Solex 32DIS, specifically a 71696 (marked on carb body).

So we were wondering about how to go about it, I know we could change the joints and seals but it's around €80 for a rebuild kit and it might not necessarily cure the problem. So we looked at new options, and I nearly fell off my chair, the cheapest 'new' one I can find is €500, and that is the old carb rebuilt!

Anyway, after a bit of searching, I found a DIS carb that looks very similar, in fact I have seen them marked up for Renault Super 5 also, these are reasonably well priced at around €150, the only difference that I can see is that the levers for the choke and throttle need swapping around and maybe a few hoses need changing for slightly longer ones. Link hopefully attached to one I am considering.

Carburateur Renault 4 GTL Type Solex 32 Dis | eBay

Les meilleures offres pour Carburateur Renault 4 GTL Type Solex 32 Dis sont sur eBay ✓ Comparez les prix et les spécificités des produits neufs et d'occasion ✓ Pleins d'articles en livraison gratuite!

www.ebay.fr

My question is really is there anything very specific about the 71696 'original' carb that I have to the 5 GT Turbo, or will a conventional Renault 5 carburettor work in its place? The chap only wants it for his wedding and I don't really.fancy telling him that either his carb is scrap and he has a set of joints he can't use or that he needs to put €500 into a recon one!

Thanks in advance, this is my first post here, I am sure there will be other posts as we get it back on the road.

 

[DaveL485]

I'd strip it, get it vapour blasted, stick a rebuild kit on it. R5 carbs are monster money now! (as you have discovered).

@Brigsy and @sparkie are the carb guru's so see what they say.

 

[sparkie]

The turbo carb has enricher circuits that open when the carb sees boost. That link you posted is for a normally aspirated carb and is a sure fire way of your man blowing his car up on his wedding day.
You need to purchase a carb rebuild kit £42, and sand blast the parts. Taking care to leave the mixture screw In when you blast the throttle base, so you dont funk the threads. Then spray all the galleries through with petrol in a squirt bottle.

 

[andybond]

My experience is that the water galleries are not needed on the Solex 32 DIS either. I ran without for a time

 

[Brigsy]

The ebay carb will not work as no enrichment, you need the correct 32dis.

You wont find a new carb for sale easily, and then your looking at £500+ all day long.

Id get that one rebuilt, and set it up with an afr gauge. Water jacket might clean up, if not bypass the water as it makes little difference in summer.

 

[clarky_gtt]

ask @sparkie nicely to build it for you.....but wait till he's done my 3 first

 

[sparkie]

ask @sparkie nicely to build it for you.....but wait till he's done my 3 first

Parts went in for plating today!

 

[Jpu121265]

Sorry for the delayed reply lads.

Thanks for that advice. I suppose it was optimistic on my part to imagine that a €140 carb is the same as a €500+ carb.

I have bought a rebuild kit so we'll see how that goes.

Thanks again.

Jack.

 

[Jpu121265]

Thanks all for the help, as usual, two steps forward, one step back.

Put the newly rebuilt carburettor back on, and it wouldn't start, checked and it had a healthy squirt from the accelerator jet down the carb (set the pump with a 5mm drill bit as per advice online). Looked it over and found that there was a spark at the coil lead but not at the plugs, dizzy cap carbon brush worn and the rotor arm was fairly black. Anyway cleaned them up and it started right up, turned the idle speed down a bit and turned the mixture screw a bit to the best idle and then thought it best to leave actual tuning until I have changed the ignition parts above.

Come back to it, won't start. Changed the cap and rotor, no difference. Reset idle mix screw to recommended 7 turns, no difference. Healthy spark at all plugs. Checked firing order, put a soft paintbrush down number 1 (closest to flywheel) and turned to TDC, No1 is right and rotor arm points to the radiator at TDC. Leads on the right way, 1342 clockwise. Float chamber in the carb is full. Good squirt from the accelerator pump when pumping throttle. Tried some fresh fuel direct down the carb mouth and no different.

If you don't use choke, and leave at idle, it tries to start. If you shut the choke flap it's less keen to start. If you touch the accelerator while starting it dies/won't splutter at all.

So I'm mulling it all over in my head now while charging the battery, the only thing I did notice is the plug (which is new) when removed from No1 seems a bit dry to me, but I only glanced it, so I'm wondering if now it wouldn't be a good idea to take the rocker cover off, check the valves are all opening and readjust them. But would be keen to hear any thoughts as it's quite annoying to have it running happily earlier and now it just doesn't want to know!

 

[Jpu121265]

Well, more success today, the plugs are quite oily and wet, in spite of being new. So I left them out to air up a bit and it started after around 15 seconds of cranking, and spluttered into life, where it ran quite happily. A slight flat spot when you open the throttle wide but idles happily at 900rpm. More digging required, will see if it wants to start tomorrow.

 

[Jpu121265]

What I hope will be my last post in a while, in the nicest possible way!

Went to it today and it started lovely, then died after about 15 seconds. Lifted the elbow on the carb again and no fuel from the accelerator jet, assumed empty in the float chamber. Took the fuel feed pipe off and it was around 5 seconds of cranking and then there was an abundance of fuel.

Reconnected and after around 10 secs of cranking all perfect. So thanks all above for your help and advice.

From what I've read online (here), there is a crank position sensor that 'activates' the pump, I wonder if there is a slight issue there, but for the time being it is able to start and run like a good un.

Thanks again.

 

[mrdini]

What I hope will be my last post in a while, in the nicest possible way!

Went to it today and it started lovely, then died after about 15 seconds. Lifted the elbow on the carb again and no fuel from the accelerator jet, assumed empty in the float chamber. Took the fuel feed pipe off and it was around 5 seconds of cranking and then there was an abundance of fuel.

Reconnected and after around 10 secs of cranking all perfect. So thanks all above for your help and advice.

From what I've read online (here), there is a crank position sensor that 'activates' the pump, I wonder if there is a slight issue there, but for the time being it is able to start and run like a good un.

Thanks again.

Any further starting /idling issues remove the idle jet and blast clean with air / carb cleaner before re fitting , idle jet comes apart 2 parts clean thoroughly, when carbs are rebuilt this usually needs cleaned and re fit a couple of times before idles well