Home extractor fan wiring help

[Norwich Nick]

hello. I will be putting in a new fan for the bathroom as currently we don't have one. I've got the hole drilled and all the bits but no wiring yet. From memory I need 3 core (plus earth?) wired from the pendant with perm live, switched live and neutral.


Can I use this or can anyone link me up , only need a couple of meters

@TNT Andy ?

 

[roy h]

that will be fine just make sure that you also fit a fan isolation switch to the outside of the bathroom must be a fan one as it will isolate all the wires to the fan.

 

[DaveL485]

Check the wire is heavy enough for the fan motor draw too. Don't use thin lighting wiring for a higher wattage fan motor.

 

[Haz]

Most modern fans are wired up using the same cable as the lights, 1.5mm 3 core. It's not supposed to be on flex.
Power from bathroom lights, to rcd switch, to fan.
You are aware that it's illegal to add it into circuit without it being signed off by a nic approved electrician, although no one will question it when buying the house.

 

[Norwich Nick]

Cheers guys.
Will double check the rating, was in a little b&q so range wasn't great. Will probably go to a bigger one or electrical wholesale and get some. I'm sure last time I got some multi coloured stuff which was specifically for fans :bw:

If anybody asks my plumber mate did it :bj:

I think you guys will appreciate the wiring job I found on the shower feed, will get a picture next time I'm in the loft, it's nearly as good as the oven/hob supply

 

[Haz]

Anything for bathrooms should be low voltage. There is 4 core flex, as it's a simple way to figure out the wiring but spark's don't bother, cost saving.
No one will ask, well unless there's a fault and someone gets electrocuted or a fire starts. Slim chance with modern fuse boards.
Bad shower/cooker supplies are usually due to upgrades but not bothering replacing the cable, again, something that should be signed off.

 

[roy h]

Anything for bathrooms should be low voltage. There is 4 core flex, as it's a simple way to figure out the wiring but spark's don't bother, cost saving.
No one will ask, well unless there's a fault and someone gets electrocuted or a fire starts. Slim chance with modern fuse boards.
Bad shower/cooker supplies are usually due to upgrades but not bothering replacing the cable, again, something that should be signed off.

best one I found was a 9kw shower connected to the ringmain in the bedroom nextdoor to the bathroom.

 

[Norwich Nick]

I'm not even sure where the shower is actually feed from, I've only seen the cable running to it. That said I've got an idea which is why we've never used it since we bought the house.

This was the oven/hob

 

[roy h]

that's shocking. where was that little gem hidden

 

[Haz]

Both shower and cooker should have their own supplies and fuse from the board.
I've seen a few joins with blocks, at least they're up to the job otherwise they would have melted more than they have, only really an issue if both things they supply are on at the same time.
Hob will use 8mm twin/earth but the cooker is usually 13amp plug. What did they both supply? Is one the shower :ag:

 

[DaveL485]

My power shower was fed with a cable so underrated it was hot to the touch after a shower. Now thankfully ripped out and replaced with a dedicated line of cable the same diameter as my finger lol

 

[detailR]

You are aware that it's illegal to add it into circuit without it being signed off by a nic approved electrician, although no one will question it when buying the house.

A "competent person" can install and certificate the work.
Only the additional cable (although the whole circuit is easier) has to be tested and a minor works certificate issued.

You can fit it your self and have it tested.
If you're naughtyand/or not that fussed, it'd come up on a periodic test or at change of ownership if it's not tested.
I'd always say to have it tested for piece of mind.

 

[Norwich Nick]

That was behind the oven. Not the best job, wasn't sure how it was meant to be but even I know it wasn't right.

The shower doesn't have its own fuse :dm:

Was planning on pulling the cooker feed back and re routing it to feed shower, save a job playing with the fuse box and just stick a new label on :cj:

 

[Haz]

It should just be one cable, from the board, to a 40amp switch then to hob (or cooker if it's all in one). That looks like it's feeding 2 things?
If the shower isn't fused then is that the cable supplying it?
If you take all the fuses out, pop the front of the board you'll be able to see what connect where. Obviously be aware that pre fuses (buzz bars) will be live unless turned off at the main fuse!

 

[Norwich Nick]

Sorry guys thought I'd replied.
The pic above was of a single cable which was then split by choc blocks (not sure if that's what everyone calls them, no idea why I do either but think someone said it and it's stuck!) to power the hob and oven. It's now redundant as we have gas oven/hob, the cable is now terminated by twisting the ends together and taped up.

This is the shower feed, I was guessing light circuit but forgot there was a socket on the other side of the shower wall