front alignment phase2

[Anonymous]

It's just a small thing, but I experimented a bit with the front allignment, since I was quite p#ssed off by the fact that the front tires have excessive wear on the inside.

So after a 10000miles test I found that a negative toe of -30 minutes should be +30 minutes.
It really changes the wear much more regular, still a bit more on the inside but not excessive.

I couldn't find any negative effects from the mods, just that the backend steps out a bit more with an advance warning.
But this ain't a problem for me, I kinda like it.
I must add, that I also have a rear torsionbar, and stiffened front bushings.

Up to now 150000km on the speedo :shock:

 

[Anonymous]

30min!!! thats alot!

 

[Peter255]

Mk2 should have:

Front Caster plus 6 degrees +/- 30 minutes
Front Camber minus 45 minutes +/- 30 minutes
Pivot 13 degrees +/- 30 minutes - not adjustable.
Front Toe Minus 30 minutes +/- 15 minutes (Toe out!)

Rear Camber Minus 1 degree 30 minutes +/- 20 minutes - adjustable?
Rear Toe Plus 45 minutes +/- 15 minutes. (Toe in)

For Toe adjustment 1 turn = 1 degree. (6mm)

Peter

 

[Anonymous]

front and rear camber is adjustable

 

[Anonymous]

I know about the camber adjustments, but didn't want to touch them to begin with. For track use I would even want to increase the front with about 2 degrees, and the rear 1 degree to start with. This on the other hand would again increase inside wear of the tires.

I also know the standard settings for the V6, I also know a bit the development trajectory of the car, so I'm not too concerned modifiing the factory settings, to fit my personal flavor.

I just donate the info, I just experienced positive effects from the -30' to +30'.
So it's not just 30' it's 1 degree in total. :shock:

In theory, the mods would make the car a bit more sensitive on highspeed direction changes, and a bit more responsive to steering into the corners. I didn't notice any change in the highspeed sensitivity, I tried up to max speed.
Just the bit more snappy on turning in, which easy leads to stepping out of the back a bit. But in my case this is more controlled by the rear torsion bar.

Another thing that anoys me at the moment, is the pivot point of the front lower triangle. Since it's standard clio stuff they used, and lowered the car, the pivotpoint is placed too low.
When the front suspension moves up, the lower triangles pivot gives negative camber adjustments, where you just want to have positive camber change to improve cornering grip.
I see some possibilities too improve it, but it requires some welding to the subframe. A nice winterjob.

 

[k1ano]

Tagged postwith my id so i can find it easily martin

 

[John V6]

Do those settings suit your driving then Peter ?

 

[Peter255]

Do those settings suit your driving then Peter ?

Yeah they seem good.

Peter

 

[k1ano]

Demon Tweeks used these settings on Jainy's car today - they are similar to the data sheets they have and I believe made a noticeable difference to her car - correct Jainy ?

Martin

 

[John V6]

The only reason I ask, is that you have to be very carefull of alignment settings, one is if they suit ones driving, and secondly what the car is used for.

I had different settings for road, track and rallying.

You always had to be carefull that they were correct for the driver / application.

Wrote off one with the wrong settings. My fault and no one elses.

 

[k1ano]

Good points John ... Feedback from owners, which can ultimately go into a Wiki, build a good picture of options when having this work done.

With so much adjustment potential I bet it is easy to make a right pigs ear of the handling or equally transform it into something much more enjoyable to each owner - as you have suggested.

I also liked Harry's recent post about his experiments with rear toe - useful stuff too ...

Martin