Engine Removal Anyone done it?

[thunderstarter]

Yes I know it sounds drastic, but I'm planning ahead with the Cambelt change that's needed next year, I'm thinking about dropping the engine myself then paying a Renault Master Tech (who I know) to come out and do the actual belt change. (ie the scary bit!

I'm also going to do the clutch whilst the engine is out.

So has anyone removed their engine and how difficult is it?

ta
Dan

 

[Brett]

Its not that bad at all. No different to a normal fwd car. If your doing it with out a ramp then you need to get the rear as high as possible. Its worth baring in mind that the engine loom, gear linkage, clutch line and waterworks are best removed before this point. Its for no other reason than just being easier to do before the car is in the air. To get the car in the air safely your typical small Halfords axlestands just won't do. They need to be placed INFRONT of the subframe. I used a 10 tonne trolley jack aswell which helps with getting the car to full height.
The first thing to remove once up nice and high will obviously be the subframe. This is dead easy and only takes 10 minutes or so. Once that is removed, the bottom of the engine is fully exposed and much easier to work on. You will also need to take the rear bumper off at this stage too. not 100% needed if you have a ramp but much easier and safer on the wallet. The exhaust silencer can then be removed but don't bother with the collector pipe as it all drops with the pig iron your about to move. Pop the drivesafts out and get ready to catch the gearbox fluid from the diff. This will now leave you all the wiring and lines connected to the front of the motor.
This is pretty much the most fiddly part of removal. I particularly struggle with the alternator to starter wiring purely because its a bit tight for my clumbsy hands. You'll be pretty much there now and only the gearbox and engine mount holds it all in. At this point you will have two options. 1, either slide an engine crane through the back and lower it down (I'm not a fan of this way) or 2, place your trusty trolley jack under the sump and lower. Worth noting that a small bit of plywood placed between the jack and sump saves and risk of damage to the sump.

My biggest bit of advise would be don't do it on your own. A mate can usually spot something thats easily been missed or snagged. It also seconds as a safety net for yourself. Its hard to believe how heavy these engines are all built up until your trying to move one.

 

[Fred]

i'll happily hire out my engine trolley to members (its actually the Renault special tool for the V6 clio) but the car needs to be on a 2 post lift

 

[Brett]

Hmmmm I want those ITB's!!

 

[Fred]

get your wallet out then!

 

[thunderstarter]

thanks for the replies guys! I can feel a 'how to guide' coming on!

Cheers for the offer of hire of the engine trolley too, although if im doing this at home I think I'll have to use the trolley jack method.

 

[blakey]

I'm doing mine next time. Wanted to do it at the first change but at that time have no were to do the job.

I am looking at one of these for my garage anyway. Will be a god send for jobs like this.

Any how to guide will be fantastic

 

[taipan]

get your wallet out then!

How big does the wallet have to be out of interest?

 

[thunderstarter]

I'm doing mine next time. Wanted to do it at the first change but at that time have no were to do the job.

I am looking at one of these for my garage anyway. Will be a god send for jobs like this.

Any how to guide will be fantastic

Blakey, that looks a fantastic lift, ideal for home garage use. what is it and where can you get one from?

 

[blakey]

I have been looking at lifts for a while that one is sold by strongman tools. They are made in china and are sold be a few firms in different colours etc. also has the CE mark (need to check that it is an English CE and not Chinese)

£2,245
Lifts to a height of 1 meter
3 ton lift
ratchet locking system to stop any accidents

http://www.strongmantools.co.uk/mid%20r ... 0lift.html

Need to do some reaserch before buying but seem ok.

[youtube]31dmPbR4pp8[/youtube]

 

[blakey]

Group buy Dan? [cmilie=iconcheers.gif]

 

[thunderstarter]

Group buy Dan? [cmilie=iconcheers.gif]

Haha! Id love to get one of these but I suppose the biggest question is, does it allow enough clearance at the back of the car to drop the engine and gearbox?

The other slight problem is the cost, I know something like this aint gonna be cheap but thats the cost of 2 cambelt changes alone, so I have to ask myself the question, will I use it enough to justify the price. I know you can do oil changes etc a lot easier.

Something to consider anyhow.

Cheers
Dan

 

[Brett]

You need 680mm minimum to slide the engine out with the inlet removed fella. Question answered lol

 

[Spike]

i'll happily hire out my engine trolley to members (its actually the Renault special tool for the V6 clio) but the car needs to be on a 2 post lift

BIT LATE, but just looking at this i think its really good of fred to offer this piece of equipment to the forum members, well done!
As for changing the belt with the engine out, i have a set of pins for lining up the gears. you literally pop the pins in place then take the old off and pop the new on, seemingly idiot proof, i am sure someone could prove me wrong. i will also lend these out if someone needs them and if they collect them i will show where they go on a spare eng i have in the garage.

 

[Steve-V6-D61]

YEP

D61 update again

12 hours on the car today and good progress, inc engine back in.
I was asked how I was going to get it back in at home, here's how, by the way I was on my own doing this, I gave it some thought,I first got out the engine hoist and lifted up engine and put on a 6 wheeled low level crawler , blocked up the engine level (I never use it for going under the car though) then remove the hosit

Next get a 6 foot lenght of 4 X 4 timber and place it under the car were the tank is, blocked up so not to put weight on the tank, then the tricky bit you need to use this to fit the car high enough the get the crawler and the engine under the car. Scary.

Next postion the crawler so the engine in the correct postion, then lower the car over the engine. Once the rear hatch is at the same height as the engine hoist put the car back on to the axle stands.

I hand already fitted a chain and racket strap to the engine block that held it level, do this check before you try to fit the engine.
I then pushed the hoist though the rear hatch and attached it to the chain and pulled up the engine to the right height and bolted up the engine mounts.

Lot of setting up work before hand made it a fairly easy job. The rest was reassembly of the pipes and cables etc.

 

[blakey]

Impressive doing it without a 2 post lift, planning ahead to make sure the correct clearance is available

 

[thunderstarter]

Awesome Steve.... this is probably somehow I will be doing it!