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Engine dont fire up

What voltage did you get at the other side of the relay ? If you had lets say 12volts going in and only 10 volts coming out then there is a loss of 2v across the relay contacts. ( A drop of anything above 0.3 volts is bad )

It could be burnt or pitted contacts in the relay, If your confident enough you can bridge out the relay and feed the pump directly, If the pump fires you'll know the relay is at fault.
 
Does the throttle initialise when the key is turned - as I have mentioned a couple of times ? The fuel pump will engage when the key is turned to raise fuel pressure and won't fully re-engage until the engine cranks and starts - so this is what you are seeing ?

Martin
 
James: thanks for the info!

k1ano: the throttle makes the same noises it did when the enginge worked, kind of high pitched noise and a little tapping or how to discribe it....

The fuel pump dont engage at all, no noise and no reading on the cables BUT I had reading in the connectors in the relay seating. around 10V or similar when turning the key, from 1 to 2 seconds and then down again to about 2V.

I REALLY am no engine technitian but this sounds to me like the relay dont forward this signal? Broken or something else?

Missing Link: Im not confident nor have the knowledge of how to do this :) Is it easy and what kind of tools are needed?

Regards,
Per
 
You should be able to bypass the relay easily enough (thus detemining if it's faulty) by bridging the high current circuit - if you can read the wiring schematic which is usually printed on relays - I don't have one to hand so can't explain which pins it is, but someone perhaps can ...

Sound like you are getting somewhere ...

Martin
 
Per, If you not sure then maybe it's time to hand it over to a local Autospark, If your not 100% you could back feed or short something out.

A relay in it's simplest form is nothing more than a remote switch, It will be earthed on one side and fed a voltage ( Sometimes the other way round ) by the engine ECU to close the contacts and allow battery voltage to pass through it to the pump.

All you really need is a piece of wire, You need to bridge the permanently live feed on the relay block to the output pin on the same relay block that then goes to the pump ( Usually the two thickest wires)

If i could find a wiring schematic then i could narrow it down for you.

I use a tool called a power-probe. It allows me to feed a device with either a positive or negative feed.

Again, If your not sure don't just guess, it could be an expensive mistake.......

If it's just a standard 4/5 pin relay...... Swap it with another on the car to test.
 
Problem solved!

It was related to the fuel pump but that wasnt the problem. Some kind of safety system had kicked in, like when you crash the car and the fuel cuts of. This had happened and what I got help with was just pushin a button, thats all there was to it! Like resetting the fuel pump.

I dont know if your UK cars have this button but my LHD car has. It looks like this:

image.jpg


Seems to be OEM.

Thanks for all the help with everything, now I can drive the car all summer! :approve:

Regards,
Per
 
:rofl: Had you been in the front and knocked it ?

Old Sierras used to suffer this when the owners changed a wheel and threw the spare back in only for it not to start.

Keep your eye on it, Inertia switches need a fair knock to trip, If yours is going weak it could shut down going over a pot hole.

Glad you got it sorted.
 
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