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Ball joint splitters

TNT Andy

Well-Known Member
Just a quick one.

Who uses what and why is it best. I'm fed up of using the ...

i.ebayimg.com_t_ball_joint_splitter_seperator_classic_car_gara06db702a00b344e01174781aa6f6925c.jpg

type and ripping the rubbers to bits.

Anyone use this successfully or have good times with others?

Did the Mrs Cooper S wheel bearing the other day and ripped another lower ball joint.
 
I have a Clarke one that has a bolt you do up that presses an arm on the bolt of the ball joint if you get me? Got it from machine mart
 
The one that Adey has linked is the boyo. Ive had one for years, seems indestructible. Them wedge ones are shit, always rip the rubber on the joint.
 
Yep solid enough to bust out everything I've tried without splitting a boot yet, sometimes tricky to get in on some cars but turning the wheels usually creates enough clearance to give it a clout
 
Yes Andy, Get one of those ones like Ewok linked to.

As Dave eluded, try & keep the bolt on the top of the ball joint if poss to stop knackering the end of the thread if you want to re-use that ball joint later on.

Top tip is to do it up tightly on the ball joint, and then give the square end of it (the one next to the bolt) a good whack with the hammer and you should find that your ball joint stops being a ball ache. :)
 
Sibbers top tips for balljoint removal:

Leave the nut on top and bludgeon it with the heaviest hammer you can find, with a brass drift if you have one. Don't fanny about, give it hard, concise blows straight down on the top. You can also hit the stub axle arm a bit too on the outer edge (the shock can help release it), and if you think you're heading toward damaging the thread angle the steering so you can hit the body of the balljoint downwards (with your drift). Only recommended that if you are replacing the BJ though. Remember if you hit the nut too much you will need to replace it, and usually they are fine threads so not something you would normally find rolling around your toolbox or in Halfrauds.

If you can, heat the stub axle carrier arm. Metal expands under heat so DON'T heat the balljoint heat the fitting it sits in. A lot of the time it just drops out after heating properly.

Don't try and lever it out with a pry bar. You might bend the track rod arm or axle carrier arm if you pull hard enough. If you damage the threads replace it. If you damage the body, replace it.

If all else fails, take the axle carrier off and remove the BJ at the track rod arm. Take it to somewhere that can remove it :D
 
I used to always use the hammer method until i bent the arm on a hub. More careful since that incident lol. Changed my xantia balljoint, that took pure brute force to remove..super hard and rusted, the stilsons to undo from the hub.
 
Two hammer technique is the best .You need to hit the arm and balljoint at the same time ,obviously one above ,one below .Short sharp weighty shocks will budge it .Being an ex drummer I find that sort of co-ordination no bother but some of you may look a bit spazzy trying it ........
 
Two hammer technique is the best .You need to hit the arm and balljoint at the same time ,obviously one above ,one below .Short sharp weighty shocks will budge it .Being an ex drummer I find that sort of co-ordination no bother but some of you may look a bit spazzy trying it ........
Thats a recipe for a dented wing, dented hand or a dented face!
 
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