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Ball joint splitters
- Thread starter TNT Andy
- Start date
TNT Andy
Well-Known Member
cheers Adey - is that one non destructive?
DaveL485
Staff member
I've never had cause to use one. If this doesn't work (put the old nut on the top to prevent thread damage):
Use this little beast:
http://welduk.com/product/mini-portapack-110-oxy-turbo-kit-131090-02
^^Also cooks ants nests VERY effectively.
Use this little beast:
http://welduk.com/product/mini-portapack-110-oxy-turbo-kit-131090-02
^^Also cooks ants nests VERY effectively.
DaveL485
Staff member
Yes Andy, Get one of those ones like Ewok linked to.
As Dave eluded, try & keep the bolt on the top of the ball joint if poss to stop knackering the end of the thread if you want to re-use that ball joint later on.
Top tip is to do it up tightly on the ball joint, and then give the square end of it (the one next to the bolt) a good whack with the hammer and you should find that your ball joint stops being a ball ache.
As Dave eluded, try & keep the bolt on the top of the ball joint if poss to stop knackering the end of the thread if you want to re-use that ball joint later on.
Top tip is to do it up tightly on the ball joint, and then give the square end of it (the one next to the bolt) a good whack with the hammer and you should find that your ball joint stops being a ball ache.
DaveL485
Staff member
Sibbers top tips for balljoint removal:
Leave the nut on top and bludgeon it with the heaviest hammer you can find, with a brass drift if you have one. Don't fanny about, give it hard, concise blows straight down on the top. You can also hit the stub axle arm a bit too on the outer edge (the shock can help release it), and if you think you're heading toward damaging the thread angle the steering so you can hit the body of the balljoint downwards (with your drift). Only recommended that if you are replacing the BJ though. Remember if you hit the nut too much you will need to replace it, and usually they are fine threads so not something you would normally find rolling around your toolbox or in Halfrauds.
If you can, heat the stub axle carrier arm. Metal expands under heat so DON'T heat the balljoint heat the fitting it sits in. A lot of the time it just drops out after heating properly.
Don't try and lever it out with a pry bar. You might bend the track rod arm or axle carrier arm if you pull hard enough. If you damage the threads replace it. If you damage the body, replace it.
If all else fails, take the axle carrier off and remove the BJ at the track rod arm. Take it to somewhere that can remove it
Leave the nut on top and bludgeon it with the heaviest hammer you can find, with a brass drift if you have one. Don't fanny about, give it hard, concise blows straight down on the top. You can also hit the stub axle arm a bit too on the outer edge (the shock can help release it), and if you think you're heading toward damaging the thread angle the steering so you can hit the body of the balljoint downwards (with your drift). Only recommended that if you are replacing the BJ though. Remember if you hit the nut too much you will need to replace it, and usually they are fine threads so not something you would normally find rolling around your toolbox or in Halfrauds.
If you can, heat the stub axle carrier arm. Metal expands under heat so DON'T heat the balljoint heat the fitting it sits in. A lot of the time it just drops out after heating properly.
Don't try and lever it out with a pry bar. You might bend the track rod arm or axle carrier arm if you pull hard enough. If you damage the threads replace it. If you damage the body, replace it.
If all else fails, take the axle carrier off and remove the BJ at the track rod arm. Take it to somewhere that can remove it
ratmangta
Well-Known Member
Two hammer technique is the best .You need to hit the arm and balljoint at the same time ,obviously one above ,one below .Short sharp weighty shocks will budge it .Being an ex drummer I find that sort of co-ordination no bother but some of you may look a bit spazzy trying it ........
DaveL485
Staff member
Thats a recipe for a dented wing, dented hand or a dented face!
James Porter
New Member
i have a little splitter that always works.... doesnt damage threads and doesnt damage the rubber...
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