This guide was originally written by ( @thorpey182 )
Just replaced mine at the weekend. I've never done them before and couldn't find a guide so I thought I'd knock a quick one up.
Tools:
13mm & 14mm spanners
13mm socket
36mm socket
Flat blade screwdriver
Caliper rewind tool
Copper grease
Anti-squeal grease (or copper grease)
Torque wrench
Once the car is in gear, has the hand brake off, is jacked up and stable and the wheel is removed, undo the 2 bolts (circled in red) with a 13mm spanner and use a 14mm spanner to hold the 2 nuts (circled in green). This will separate the caliper from the carrier.
Move the caliper out of the way to reveal this
Next, remove the 2 bolts (circled in red) with a 13mm socket. Mine were well and truly stuck so I had to use a blow-lamp for a couple of minutes on each one to free them up.
Now the carrier is free you can remove the old pads and clean it up ready for the new pads.
Next pop the cap off using a flat blade screwdriver to reveal the hub nut
Remove the nut using the 36mm socket and a long extension bar as it's tight, then slide the old disc assembly off the axle.
At this point refit the carrier and caliper so it’s solid so you can rewind the piston back inside the caliper. After that remove the caliper and carrier again.
Pop a slight smear of grease on the axle, degrease your new discs using brake cleaner and a clean rag, then simply slide the new disc onto the axle. Put the nut back on and tighten to 175-180NM and refit the cover cap.
Once that's on, refit the carrier and the new pads and put a smear of anti-squeal/copper grease on the backs of the pads to stop any brake squeal
Then refit the caliper over the carrier and pads making sure everything is nice and tight.
Clean the mating face of your wheel and put some copper grease on to make sure the wheel doesn’t stick to the hub over time, and refit the wheel.
Once back on the ground and the wheel bolts are torqued to 130NM, hop in and depress the brake pedal smoothly and release the pedal a few times to ensure the pistons adjust themselves, and then job done.
Should take around an hour per side, depending on stubborn nuts/bolts etc.
Just replaced mine at the weekend. I've never done them before and couldn't find a guide so I thought I'd knock a quick one up.
Tools:
13mm & 14mm spanners
13mm socket
36mm socket
Flat blade screwdriver
Caliper rewind tool
Copper grease
Anti-squeal grease (or copper grease)
Torque wrench
Once the car is in gear, has the hand brake off, is jacked up and stable and the wheel is removed, undo the 2 bolts (circled in red) with a 13mm spanner and use a 14mm spanner to hold the 2 nuts (circled in green). This will separate the caliper from the carrier.
Move the caliper out of the way to reveal this
Next, remove the 2 bolts (circled in red) with a 13mm socket. Mine were well and truly stuck so I had to use a blow-lamp for a couple of minutes on each one to free them up.
Now the carrier is free you can remove the old pads and clean it up ready for the new pads.
Next pop the cap off using a flat blade screwdriver to reveal the hub nut
Remove the nut using the 36mm socket and a long extension bar as it's tight, then slide the old disc assembly off the axle.
At this point refit the carrier and caliper so it’s solid so you can rewind the piston back inside the caliper. After that remove the caliper and carrier again.
Pop a slight smear of grease on the axle, degrease your new discs using brake cleaner and a clean rag, then simply slide the new disc onto the axle. Put the nut back on and tighten to 175-180NM and refit the cover cap.
Once that's on, refit the carrier and the new pads and put a smear of anti-squeal/copper grease on the backs of the pads to stop any brake squeal
Then refit the caliper over the carrier and pads making sure everything is nice and tight.
Clean the mating face of your wheel and put some copper grease on to make sure the wheel doesn’t stick to the hub over time, and refit the wheel.
Once back on the ground and the wheel bolts are torqued to 130NM, hop in and depress the brake pedal smoothly and release the pedal a few times to ensure the pistons adjust themselves, and then job done.
Should take around an hour per side, depending on stubborn nuts/bolts etc.
