This guide is courtesy of @roy h
Adding EFI to your 5 yourself
When I decided to EFI my 5 my first plan was to see what the minimum cost would be to carry out the conversion. And to see how easy it is to do and is it possible to make your own inlet manifold.
First thing I looked at is pros and cons
Pro’s
Better fuel economy
No more carb freeze
No carb
Cold starts
Warm starts
Cons
Cost (around £1200 installed yourself to £1600+ to have all the work done for you 2013 prices)
A couple of custom brackets needed
Custom manifold
No more gurgle.
Now the choice of equipment.
After reading all the post on the boards of what people are using and the results I settled on a adaptroinc ECU due to the support provided by EFI parts. and a Michael Tierney manifold. This was to be set up to be a wasted spark set up. After getting the ecu it became clear I needed some extra wiring to connect all the parts up.
I did look at the skoda manifold but after getting it to fit on the head it became clear a custom downpipe and turbo elbow would be needed so any cost saving I was after then went out of the window.
As I had got a 420d I could make use of the standard Renault flywheel. The ECU will work with just the one trigger but due to the 2 reset points we found out the coil pack had to work twice as often. The easy cure for this was to set up a second sensor on the existing rotor arm for the dizzy as a reset point. Even though there was a bit of extra work This then opened up the way to set up the ecu for sequential injection.
The adaptronic software can be download from there website for use. This will need to be downloaded and set up prior to connecting to the ecu.
I had only used one fuel pump in place of the standard one. But you may add a second fuel pump relay and wiring to install a 2nd pump and swirl tank for track use.
Shopping list
ECU
Manifold
Fuel pipe
fuel pressure reg
t pieces for fuel lines
injectors bosh red 440's
coil pack
relay
fuse holder 4 way
wire. 2mm 4mm 6mm
uprated fuel pump
water temp switch
plugs for injectors ect
2 suitable brackets for fuel pressure reg and coil pack
AFR gauge with data output if you do not have one
No need for map sensor as it is in the 420d adaptronic ecu
Vacuum pipe
Bleed valve
Clips for pipework
Fuel pipe clamps
Rubber grommets
Hall effect sensor from rs part 2355706 (second sensor for reset.)
Connector plugs for the coil pack, tps, second sensor ,idle control valve, injectors.
Heat srink tube.
A old car wire loom will come in handy for extra wires needed
2.5 jack plug for ecu
Installing.
I have chosen to mount the ecu in the glove box for the reason’s its easy to get to and close to the fuse board and close to the bulkhead for getting wires into the engine bay.
It will help installation if upon getting the ecu group the wires into groups as below wire colour and pin number on plug for the ECU.
Group 1. power and fuel pump connection’s
Red/white pin1A, red pin 1b, black 2a and 2b, orange/black pin1f,
Aux 4 brown/white pin 2x
Group 2 injection and coil pack wires
Blue/black pin 2u, pink pin 2y, blue/orange pin 2y orange/white pin2v,
black/brown pin 1g, black/red pin 1h you will also need to run a 12v supply for the injectors and a 12v supply and a ground for the coil pack.
(if using a idle control valve on aux 1 brown on pin2w. and a12v supply)
Group 3 trigger and sensor wires
Black/green pin 2c and 2d small black 4 core cable, green pin 2m, and red/blue pin 2k
Yellow/black pin 2q you will also need to run a 12v supply and a ground for the dizzy mounted sensor.
Group 4 digital inputs and svss
All unused wires can have the ends sealed up and coiled up for future use
Group 5 aux outputs
All unused wires can have the ends sealed up and coiled up for future use
As you install test each circuit as you go along to make sure there are no short circuits this will help with the testing and first set up.
Starting on the wiring.
4 way fuse box is as follows.
Fuse 1 5 amp ecu power
Fuse 2 20 amp injectors and coil pack
Fuse 3 10 amp .2nd sensor and if fitted idle control valve.
Fuse 4 30 amp fuel pump supply and ignition switch to ecu
Group 1 wires
Locate the existing fuel pump relay and remove. On the existing fuel pump relay block take a live from the thick red wire to fuse 1 and 4 on the 4 way fuse block. install a 5 amp fuse in fuse 1. This will need 2 wires from the fuse. One will then connect the red/white wire on pin 1a to this. the second is for the supply to the new fuel pump relay.
heavy duty wire is to be used between the existing relay block to fuse 4 as this is for the fuel pump supply.
Then you connect the red wire on pin1b to fuse 2 which is connected to the yellow wire on the existing fuel pump relay block. you will also have to run a wire to fuse 3
now remove the old aie unit and leave the connectors sealed up. Now you can connect ignition output 3s wire orange and black on pin1f to the small brown or pink wire on the 3rd pin on the existing fuel pump relay block. So this will now drive the original rev counter.
the black wires on pin 2a and 2b can be connected to the black earth on the existing fuel pump relay block. I also ran a extra earth from the battery. The earths from the coil pack and second sensor will also connect to here.
Now connect a wire to the relay block from the 4th fuse. A 30 amp fuse should now be fitted into 4 fuse. connect the fuse to the relay power terminal (87) take another wire from the power output of the relay (30) to the fat white wire. This sets up the new supply for the fuel pump. Now connect aux 4 brown /white wire on pin 2x to the relay switch wire (85) the second feed from fuse one now connects to the relay supply (86)
remember heavy duty cable for the fuel pump supply is needed.
Now for some stripping out and more installing.
Remove the carb, inlet manifold, percfan, existing fuel pressure reg, ect.also remove the turbo so you can access the blanking plate on the side of the engine.
Remove the blanking plate as this is where you will mount the water temp sensor for the ecu.
Now install the new fuel lines from the ends of the existing solid pipe work up into the engine bay. as the ends of the existing pipes are not bevelled in any way push the pipe on as far as you can and use double clips to hold in place as they are taking a lot more pressure than they were before.
Fit a new manifold gasket and then fit you’re new EFI manifold and throttle body. You can alos connect the throttle cable at this point. The manifold I had had water cooling fitted like the original so this was all reconnected. If the one you are using does not have this you will need to connect the pipes together.
Leave the throttle body off for now. And install the injectors / fuel rail’s and fuel pressure reg Connect all the fuel /vacuum pipes as the drawing below
Install the uprated fuel pump and pipe up but do not connect the supply at the pump until testing has been done.
Before you remove the dizzy mark where plug lead on is and place the arm at TDC. This is now ready for you to remove and attach the 2nd trigger sensor. More on that later.
More wiring groups 2 and 3
Now drill a hols in the bulk head high up in the area next to the battery. Take care while drilling through as there are other things behind here that you do not want to damage. Put a rubber grommet in the hole and bring wire groups 2 and 3 into here there is no need to drill a second hole as the hole to be used is already in place just needs a new rubber grommet in it. now feed the 2 groups through
Here into the engine bay. You will also need to run the vacuum tube for the ECU through here as well.
Injectors.
Take the 12v feed from fuse 2 for the injectors to each injector and a wire to the coil pack. Now each injector need to have is connection made to the ECU. So
injector one connects to the blue black wire (flywheel end)
injector two connects to the pink wire
injector three connects to the blue/orange wire
injector four connects to the orange white wire.
Coil pack
12v feed from fuse 2 connects to pin 3 on the coil pack plug.
Ignition output 1 the black/brown wire connects to pin pin 1 of the coil pack
Ignition output 2 the black/red wire connects to pin pin 3 of the coil pack
The ground wire connects to pin 4 of the coil pack.
Connect the coil pack after testing
Sensors
Tdc sensor
The small black 4 core cable needs to have the connections as follows.
The white wire of the 4 core cable is the ground and needs to connect to the red wire of the existing TDC sensor wiring.
The black wire of the 4 core cable is the live and needs to connect to the white wire of the existing
Second sensor wiring.
The green wire of the 4 core cable is to be connected to the output from the sensor mounted on the old dizzy arm.
Tps connections.
Now take the sensor feed wire red/blue to the feed of the tps
Connect the sensor ground the black/green wire to the ground of the tps
The output from the tps is connected to the green.
Water temp sensor
This connects to the sensor ground wire black/green
and the yellow/black wire
Second sensor.
Take the 12v feed from fuse 3 to the sensor live.
Take the ground to the ground of the sensor.
Now connect the outpur of the sensor to the green wire in the small 4 core cable.
This part is probably the most awkward thing to do. Now take the removed rotor arm.
And mark 90 degrees before TDC (tdc mark should already be on the casing)
you will need to mark on the rotor arm the side of the filled in bit.
Now you will need to grind out the filled in part of the arm and weld a metal tooth into this. Once the tooth is set up the sensor can be mounted.
See pics below.
Idle control valve (if fitting)
The brown fire from aux 1 and the 12v feed from fuse 3
Afr gauge fitting
I already had fitted a AEM afr gauge. So I just had to connect the wire to the serial in on the front of the ecu. For this you will need a 2.5 jack plug. If you do not have a afr gauge make sure you buy one that has a serial out and is supported by adaptronic. The sensor bung will also need to be installed into your exhaust system.
Turbo actuator pipework.
As EFI will let you tune up the car more you will need to be able to adjust your boost levels to suit when you have the car mapped. The easy way for me was to remove the over boost switch and put a pipe adaptor in its place. Then take a pipe to the actuator with a t-piece in it. From the t-piece take a pipe to a bleed valve.
This setup keeps the actuator setup away from the map sensor pipework making it easier to turn up the boost when having the car mapped and dose not affect the map sensor readings.
You do not want to bleed air or take a boost gauge feed from the map sensor pipework
Wiring for group 1.
Now we are ready to test the components out and set up. This will also finish up the connections to the fuel pump and plugging in of the coil pack.
Adding EFI to your 5 yourself
When I decided to EFI my 5 my first plan was to see what the minimum cost would be to carry out the conversion. And to see how easy it is to do and is it possible to make your own inlet manifold.
First thing I looked at is pros and cons
Pro’s
Better fuel economy
No more carb freeze
No carb
Cold starts
Warm starts
Cons
Cost (around £1200 installed yourself to £1600+ to have all the work done for you 2013 prices)
A couple of custom brackets needed
Custom manifold
No more gurgle.
Now the choice of equipment.
After reading all the post on the boards of what people are using and the results I settled on a adaptroinc ECU due to the support provided by EFI parts. and a Michael Tierney manifold. This was to be set up to be a wasted spark set up. After getting the ecu it became clear I needed some extra wiring to connect all the parts up.
I did look at the skoda manifold but after getting it to fit on the head it became clear a custom downpipe and turbo elbow would be needed so any cost saving I was after then went out of the window.
As I had got a 420d I could make use of the standard Renault flywheel. The ECU will work with just the one trigger but due to the 2 reset points we found out the coil pack had to work twice as often. The easy cure for this was to set up a second sensor on the existing rotor arm for the dizzy as a reset point. Even though there was a bit of extra work This then opened up the way to set up the ecu for sequential injection.
The adaptronic software can be download from there website for use. This will need to be downloaded and set up prior to connecting to the ecu.
I had only used one fuel pump in place of the standard one. But you may add a second fuel pump relay and wiring to install a 2nd pump and swirl tank for track use.
Shopping list
ECU
Manifold
Fuel pipe
fuel pressure reg
t pieces for fuel lines
injectors bosh red 440's
coil pack
relay
fuse holder 4 way
wire. 2mm 4mm 6mm
uprated fuel pump
water temp switch
plugs for injectors ect
2 suitable brackets for fuel pressure reg and coil pack
AFR gauge with data output if you do not have one
No need for map sensor as it is in the 420d adaptronic ecu
Vacuum pipe
Bleed valve
Clips for pipework
Fuel pipe clamps
Rubber grommets
Hall effect sensor from rs part 2355706 (second sensor for reset.)
Connector plugs for the coil pack, tps, second sensor ,idle control valve, injectors.
Heat srink tube.
A old car wire loom will come in handy for extra wires needed
2.5 jack plug for ecu
Installing.
I have chosen to mount the ecu in the glove box for the reason’s its easy to get to and close to the fuse board and close to the bulkhead for getting wires into the engine bay.
It will help installation if upon getting the ecu group the wires into groups as below wire colour and pin number on plug for the ECU.
Group 1. power and fuel pump connection’s
Red/white pin1A, red pin 1b, black 2a and 2b, orange/black pin1f,
Aux 4 brown/white pin 2x
Group 2 injection and coil pack wires
Blue/black pin 2u, pink pin 2y, blue/orange pin 2y orange/white pin2v,
black/brown pin 1g, black/red pin 1h you will also need to run a 12v supply for the injectors and a 12v supply and a ground for the coil pack.
(if using a idle control valve on aux 1 brown on pin2w. and a12v supply)
Group 3 trigger and sensor wires
Black/green pin 2c and 2d small black 4 core cable, green pin 2m, and red/blue pin 2k
Yellow/black pin 2q you will also need to run a 12v supply and a ground for the dizzy mounted sensor.
Group 4 digital inputs and svss
All unused wires can have the ends sealed up and coiled up for future use
Group 5 aux outputs
All unused wires can have the ends sealed up and coiled up for future use
As you install test each circuit as you go along to make sure there are no short circuits this will help with the testing and first set up.
Starting on the wiring.
4 way fuse box is as follows.
Fuse 1 5 amp ecu power
Fuse 2 20 amp injectors and coil pack
Fuse 3 10 amp .2nd sensor and if fitted idle control valve.
Fuse 4 30 amp fuel pump supply and ignition switch to ecu
Group 1 wires
Locate the existing fuel pump relay and remove. On the existing fuel pump relay block take a live from the thick red wire to fuse 1 and 4 on the 4 way fuse block. install a 5 amp fuse in fuse 1. This will need 2 wires from the fuse. One will then connect the red/white wire on pin 1a to this. the second is for the supply to the new fuel pump relay.
heavy duty wire is to be used between the existing relay block to fuse 4 as this is for the fuel pump supply.
Then you connect the red wire on pin1b to fuse 2 which is connected to the yellow wire on the existing fuel pump relay block. you will also have to run a wire to fuse 3
now remove the old aie unit and leave the connectors sealed up. Now you can connect ignition output 3s wire orange and black on pin1f to the small brown or pink wire on the 3rd pin on the existing fuel pump relay block. So this will now drive the original rev counter.
the black wires on pin 2a and 2b can be connected to the black earth on the existing fuel pump relay block. I also ran a extra earth from the battery. The earths from the coil pack and second sensor will also connect to here.
Now connect a wire to the relay block from the 4th fuse. A 30 amp fuse should now be fitted into 4 fuse. connect the fuse to the relay power terminal (87) take another wire from the power output of the relay (30) to the fat white wire. This sets up the new supply for the fuel pump. Now connect aux 4 brown /white wire on pin 2x to the relay switch wire (85) the second feed from fuse one now connects to the relay supply (86)
remember heavy duty cable for the fuel pump supply is needed.
Now for some stripping out and more installing.
Remove the carb, inlet manifold, percfan, existing fuel pressure reg, ect.also remove the turbo so you can access the blanking plate on the side of the engine.
Remove the blanking plate as this is where you will mount the water temp sensor for the ecu.
Now install the new fuel lines from the ends of the existing solid pipe work up into the engine bay. as the ends of the existing pipes are not bevelled in any way push the pipe on as far as you can and use double clips to hold in place as they are taking a lot more pressure than they were before.
Fit a new manifold gasket and then fit you’re new EFI manifold and throttle body. You can alos connect the throttle cable at this point. The manifold I had had water cooling fitted like the original so this was all reconnected. If the one you are using does not have this you will need to connect the pipes together.
Leave the throttle body off for now. And install the injectors / fuel rail’s and fuel pressure reg Connect all the fuel /vacuum pipes as the drawing below
Install the uprated fuel pump and pipe up but do not connect the supply at the pump until testing has been done.
Before you remove the dizzy mark where plug lead on is and place the arm at TDC. This is now ready for you to remove and attach the 2nd trigger sensor. More on that later.
More wiring groups 2 and 3
Now drill a hols in the bulk head high up in the area next to the battery. Take care while drilling through as there are other things behind here that you do not want to damage. Put a rubber grommet in the hole and bring wire groups 2 and 3 into here there is no need to drill a second hole as the hole to be used is already in place just needs a new rubber grommet in it. now feed the 2 groups through
Here into the engine bay. You will also need to run the vacuum tube for the ECU through here as well.
Injectors.
Take the 12v feed from fuse 2 for the injectors to each injector and a wire to the coil pack. Now each injector need to have is connection made to the ECU. So
injector one connects to the blue black wire (flywheel end)
injector two connects to the pink wire
injector three connects to the blue/orange wire
injector four connects to the orange white wire.
Coil pack
12v feed from fuse 2 connects to pin 3 on the coil pack plug.
Ignition output 1 the black/brown wire connects to pin pin 1 of the coil pack
Ignition output 2 the black/red wire connects to pin pin 3 of the coil pack
The ground wire connects to pin 4 of the coil pack.
Connect the coil pack after testing
Sensors
Tdc sensor
The small black 4 core cable needs to have the connections as follows.
The white wire of the 4 core cable is the ground and needs to connect to the red wire of the existing TDC sensor wiring.
The black wire of the 4 core cable is the live and needs to connect to the white wire of the existing
Second sensor wiring.
The green wire of the 4 core cable is to be connected to the output from the sensor mounted on the old dizzy arm.
Tps connections.
Now take the sensor feed wire red/blue to the feed of the tps
Connect the sensor ground the black/green wire to the ground of the tps
The output from the tps is connected to the green.
Water temp sensor
This connects to the sensor ground wire black/green
and the yellow/black wire
Second sensor.
Take the 12v feed from fuse 3 to the sensor live.
Take the ground to the ground of the sensor.
Now connect the outpur of the sensor to the green wire in the small 4 core cable.
This part is probably the most awkward thing to do. Now take the removed rotor arm.
And mark 90 degrees before TDC (tdc mark should already be on the casing)
you will need to mark on the rotor arm the side of the filled in bit.
Now you will need to grind out the filled in part of the arm and weld a metal tooth into this. Once the tooth is set up the sensor can be mounted.
See pics below.
Idle control valve (if fitting)
The brown fire from aux 1 and the 12v feed from fuse 3
Afr gauge fitting
I already had fitted a AEM afr gauge. So I just had to connect the wire to the serial in on the front of the ecu. For this you will need a 2.5 jack plug. If you do not have a afr gauge make sure you buy one that has a serial out and is supported by adaptronic. The sensor bung will also need to be installed into your exhaust system.
Turbo actuator pipework.
As EFI will let you tune up the car more you will need to be able to adjust your boost levels to suit when you have the car mapped. The easy way for me was to remove the over boost switch and put a pipe adaptor in its place. Then take a pipe to the actuator with a t-piece in it. From the t-piece take a pipe to a bleed valve.
This setup keeps the actuator setup away from the map sensor pipework making it easier to turn up the boost when having the car mapped and dose not affect the map sensor readings.
You do not want to bleed air or take a boost gauge feed from the map sensor pipework
Wiring for group 1.
Now we are ready to test the components out and set up. This will also finish up the connections to the fuel pump and plugging in of the coil pack.
