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Renault 11 Turbo Phase 2 Restoration

Discussion in '9, 11, 25, Fuego and Laguna' started by Big Steve - Raider, Feb 6, 2014.

Discuss Renault 11 Turbo Phase 2 Restoration in the 9, 11, 25, Fuego and Laguna area at TurboRenault.co.uk.

  1. j_carter

    j_carter Well-Known Member

    That does not look too shabby Steve. Make sure you are really close to the panel with the gun and try a slower wire speed. Looks like its set a little fast..
    Big Steve - Raider likes this.
  2. DaveL485

    DaveL485 Staff Member

    Shortly after my 9 is finished? ;)
    Kris M likes this.
  3. Kris M

    Kris M Well-Known Member

    yeah good effort steve, its never easy on thin gauge material as already stated. :)
    Big Steve - Raider likes this.
  4. Big Steve - Raider

    Big Steve - Raider Staff Member

    So, after losing a point... and my rag... the previous weekend, I decided to try again with the welding on the underside of the 11 Turbo last weekend. I figured that one of the things not helping me was the crappy small gas bottles running out so soon, so after a chat with my local BOC dealer, I came home with this bad boy:
    So now it was definitely a case of all the gear... and no idea.. :punish.gif:I also bought myself a couple of better cutting and grinding discs. So first it was a case of again cutting out the HORROR that was left from before, and making the appropriate patch:
    Again it was a case of carefully welding, and then grinding it back... This time we had more success :grin.gif: IMG_4246.jpg
    But again the welder was blowing holes in the steel like hell, even with the new fancy gas, and the only way we could figure our to stop it was to hold a small piece of the steel on the inside of the car, to give the welder something to go at. Problem is.... I'm now left with this on the inside of the car:
    AND I'M NOT HAPPY ABOUT THIS!!!! :ireful2.gif::negative.gif::stop.gif: So I'm still scratching my head about what do to next..... to clear it up on the inside. Suggestions welcome :)

    Thanks for reading :)
    r5gordini likes this.
  5. Haz

    Haz Well-Known Member

    Just buzz it off. If you're having to offer some support use copper as it doesn't weld. Get a bit of 22mm copper pipe and hammer it flat. Same process as what you've done ;)
  6. DaveL485

    DaveL485 Staff Member

    Maybe if someone else tells him he'll pay attention Haz lol
  7. Big Steve - Raider

    Big Steve - Raider Staff Member

    Oi Mr LFB.. I was backing it with a copper plate I had and still we had the problem of the holes blowing through.. :aggressive.gif:

    I will have a go at gently buzzing off the excess on the inside of the car though, think that may be possible? :)
    DaveL485 likes this.
  8. Haz

    Haz Well-Known Member

    You say something Dave? :grin.gif:
    Yeah, just get the tip of the disc on the weld and gentle work at it, it'll be fine.
    DaveL485 and Big Steve - Raider like this.
  9. VBTC

    VBTC Member

    Any updates on this? If you ever need parts just let me know. Glad to help out putting this boy on the road again.
    DaveL485 and Big Steve - Raider like this.
  10. Andyquadra

    Andyquadra Well-Known Member

    when your welding really thin metal, you can sort of spot weld it in short bursts. Enough to get good penetration but not long enough to over heat the spot causing a hole, almost pulse welding
  11. malcolm

    malcolm Well-Known Member

    Secure that gas bottle! If it falls and knocks the reg off you have a torpedo going through the wall. Strapping the bottle to a table or something ought to be fine.

    There is something about thin metal like Andyquadra mentions on here: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/thin-metal.htm You can only do thin metal in one run with fancier machines.

    Have you discovered flap discs for tidying up welds? any bits of metal you might have welded to the reverse might be best ground or cut off with the standard discs, but flap discs are good at not removing parent metal and leave a finish much more like I expect you would be going for.
  12. gtmatt

    gtmatt Well-Known Member

    Any more news on the 11 ??
  13. Big Steve - Raider

    Big Steve - Raider Staff Member

    Sorry guys, I've decided to pause the 11 for a bit and just get the ST Cup re-commissioned so I can get some use out of it this summer on track days etc. :friends.gif:
  14. nad-5gtt

    nad-5gtt Active Member

    :grin.gif::aggressive.gif:I'm sorry guys just won't cut it I come on this site every now and then specifically to check up on the progress of this 11. Unbelievable
  15. DaveL485

    DaveL485 Staff Member

    It's a disgrace isn't it!
    Big Steve - Raider likes this.
  16. Big Steve - Raider

    Big Steve - Raider Staff Member

    So 145 days (or 4 months, 23 days!) since I last worked on the 11 Turbo :negative.gif: I got my bum in the garage today and got cracking again!! First thing I decided to raise the car up a little bit more on the rotisserie so I could get it at a proper 90 degrees to make it easier to work on:
    In my mind I had thought all of the prep underneath had finished, so the plan for today was to start the masking ready for the under-seal etc, however once I started to look over the car again, I realised there was still some welding that needed doing to make good some holes, so again I got the welder out had a play. First there was a small hole in the O/S corner of the boot floor:
    Then, there were a couple of unused plug holes again in the boot floor on the O/S so they had the treatment also:
    So it might not look like it on these pictures, but I feel I'm getting a bit more of a hang with this welding lark now and think I've also found a good setting on the welder, and the gas is working a treat! :grin.gif:
    I then noticed that there were STILL some open seams...
    so got busy with the seam sealer...
    So here we are nearly 5 months after my last update, and the work is still the same... sorry about that guys.. but needs must! I can see the end is near though, and have even made myself a little list of things to buy for the next steps... :drinks.gif:

    Thanks for reading :)
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2015
  17. Big Steve - Raider

    Big Steve - Raider Staff Member

    Even though I've been diligent in trying to add the protection to the car following the paint strip, I noticed a couple of bits where the dreaded rust was bubbling up UNDER the protective paint I'd already applied:
    I knew that I couldn't ignore it, as it would only come back to bite me HARDER later on, so I went over the underneath of the car with a fine toothed comb and where I found any presence of rust, I gave it a quick scrape with my wire wheel to remove the paint and rust already there:
    I then marked where I'd been with a bit of blue masking tape, so I could remember where I'd been, and know where to return with the rust converter:
    You can see that after I went over the whole of the car, there were a few points I was not happy with:
  18. Big Steve - Raider

    Big Steve - Raider Staff Member

    Had a sh1t load of #serviceparts delivered to Thomson Towers this week so I can crack on with the work this weekend: :bt:
    • Rustbuster fe123 Rust Converter to neutralise any of that ‘orrible remaining rust I found last time..
    • Spraygun for the primer coat on the underside of the car
    • Panel wipe and lint free disposable wipes for surface preparation
    • Masking tape and hole plugs to cover the bits I don’t want to paint
    • Spray Guns for various cleaning
    • Hacksaw, blades and cuttong discs to help remove the last bits of rust that need welding up
    • Marker pens to stop me always wasting time looking for the one I had a minute ago.. hang on.. where's it gone?? :ci:
    Should be a productive weekend.. fingers crossed!! :cj:
  19. Big Steve - Raider

    Big Steve - Raider Staff Member

    Following my quest to seek out and destroy all remaining rust on the underneath of the car I was digging at one particular grotty looking spot and soon found this on the N/S/R Axle mounting position:
    Following a bit more digging, I soon found this and realised that a coat of paint wasn't going to fix this one!!! So I marked a neat square round the rust and decided to cut it out:
    I used some of the new Dremel cutting discs that arrived:
    After I cut out the square, I soon found that the rust had penetrated between the seems of the two pieces of metal further than first thought:
    So it was then out with the marker pen again, and marked a bigger section to cut out..
    Unfortunately this gave the same results..
    So repeating the same process once more... I finally got to a decent bit of metal to weld back onto..
    As my new Rustbuster fe-123 rust converter had arrived:
    I thought it prudent to give the inside of the section a quick going over, whilst I had access to it:
    Then it was just a case of making the new repair patch:
    Welding it on:
    And then grinding the welds smooth to make it more attractive:
    Next I had to cut a new hole in the R/O/S chassis rail where the welder had covered one of the holes needed to route the fuel tank breathers, thankfully my Dremel cutting disk was just the right tool for this job:
    I then found another suspicious looking section on the F/O/S Chassis rail to the engine bay:
    So again it was a case of carefully cutting it out:
    Treating the rust:
    And then welding in a new patch: IMG_4527.jpg
    To finish off, I then decided to go over all of the remaining bits of rust I'd found on the underneath of the car with the FE-123 Rust Converter. You can see it turns black where it finds something to work on...

    Thanks for reading :)
  20. Big Steve - Raider

    Big Steve - Raider Staff Member

    I like the idea of the FE-123 Rust Converter neutralising any rust it finds on the car.. so I decided to paint the rest of the underneath of the car with it to hopefully temper any thoughts the car has of rusting too much in the future. Here you can see the product is quite milky when it's applied:
    But when it dries, it turns black where it found something to work on and you can see there were plenty of spots where it found something to activate:
    I could then start preparing for the painting of the underneath of the car. I didn't want to be fighting with small screws and locators when it came time for re-assembly, so I masked any open threads with some little cork bungs I bought a few weeks back:
    I also used regular masking tape and a big roll of brown paper to cover the external surfaces:
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