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21 Turbo Quadra joins Renault 5 stable!

Discussion in '21 turbo' started by r5gordini, Nov 25, 2014.

Discuss 21 Turbo Quadra joins Renault 5 stable! in the 21 turbo area at TurboRenault.co.uk.

  1. DaveL485

    DaveL485 Staff Member

    I think I have the PDF at home somewhere.

    Anyway. If the light goes out after starting the car the sensors are OK which is a good start. It means the chances are that its the target rings have been damaged or rotted away a bit and the pickups cant read them properly. If I go over 80mph in mine, it slings the ABS light on for the same reason. They're part of a first-gen electronic system and the tooth pattern is quite fine, 92 teeth, and this leaves them susceptible to degradation and damage from flying debris. More modern stuff from the next gen tends to be a 44-tooth pattern which are somewhat toughter (and cheaper, Megane rings are on the web for under £2!!)
    Rears are well protected on Quadra by the hub assembly so try the fronts first. They are available new from Renault for about £40 last time I asked but I found these while eBay surfing the other week...


    They're a press fit on the shaft, but I have very often changed them with a hammer and chisel, a drill-wire-brush and a bit of grease. Clean the face of the sensor with brake cleaner while the shaft is out and pick all the bits of crap stuck to it cos it's magnetic.
  2. Kondas21

    Kondas21 Well-Known Member

    Are you sure there is no air in the system, did your garage bled it probably? Mine did a similar thing before proper bleeding. And it's tricky to do on the Quadra, I've got instructions if you need them.
  3. r5gordini

    r5gordini Moderator

    Any hints / instructions on bleeding would be most appreciated!

    We need to build up all these sorts of resources anyway...

    I'll ask them to bleed the brakes again
  4. r5gordini

    r5gordini Moderator

    Thanks guys!
    I reckon the ABS rings are fine and well. No issues with going fast - the light only comes on if I use the brakes, so it probably is due to air in the system. I will check the rings as well, of course, and will post my findings here!
  5. Kondas21

    Kondas21 Well-Known Member

    I will scan and send instructions today sometime. Just have to deal with a lot at the moment...
  6. DaveL485

    DaveL485 Staff Member

    Does the handbrake light come on at the same time?
  7. Kondas21

    Kondas21 Well-Known Member

    End of 9.13- Beginning of 9.14. enjoy! Brake bleeding 1 001.jpg Brake bleeding 2 001.jpg
  8. r5gordini

    r5gordini Moderator

    Wow! Thanks... I have also ordered one trigger ring as I have found that under certain conditions the light does come on without braking. Didn't realise the instructions for bleeding were so specific! I will get the garage to follow them. They've got the car on Monday to finish off/check a few things. If I can get time to remove the front wheels for inspection this weekend I will do so.

    Handbrake light does not come on but can take a few seconds to extinguish on first start up.

  9. r5gordini

    r5gordini Moderator

    Small update - the car goes in tomorrow to get these little things checked. I think that one of the metal coolant pipes that runs down the side of the engine may be cracked! I see a coolant drip on the top of the clutch slave cylinder. I'll probably end up leaving fixing it until I have to take the turbo off as access to those pipes looks impossible without. Or I might try some liquid metal or some other bodge!

    On the way to pick up my kids had a problem with a Mondeo ST something or other. I was right behind him. I could tell he was gunning it but he just would not pull over to let me pass him legally on a two lane stretch of motorway. My car was faster as I kept having to lift off! And there was too much other traffic around. Frustrating...

    Then just as I was about to pull off the motorway some guy in a Fiesta ST thingy decided to accelerate up my inside. I started to indicate and move over and he courteously let me in. In my rearview mirror I saw his girlfriend taking photos of my car with an iPad! I got the thumbs up from him and off I went!

    It's not often that others recognise the car for what it is, but it's nice when they do.
    andybond likes this.
  10. DaveL485

    DaveL485 Staff Member

    More commonly it's one of the pipes at the y-splits where they fit on not sealing right, due to the sealing surface being rough/corroded. It's a point I always check for leaks after its been disturbed.

    I can never decide if people photograph them because they're rare and epic or because they can't believe there's actually "one of those shitheaps left on the road" LOL
  11. r5gordini

    r5gordini Moderator

    Very good! And agreed ;-)
    @DaveL485@DaveL485 - I wonder if you could find the PDF with the ABS diagnosis information please? Still got the trouble with mine... Not sure what it is. Trigger rings look fine. It could be a dodgy connection to the sensor that the garage fitted.
    Can modern diagnostics tools diagnose the fault? My garage has a Snap-On diagnostics thingy. They sorted out a dragging rear caliper this week and fixed the handbrake, but the light keeps coming on. Sometimes under strange circumstances, i.e. just going round a corner, or not even touching the brakes. Or high speed or low speed. Anything really!
  12. lzv8q

    lzv8q Member

    DaveL485 and andybond like this.
  13. r5gordini

    r5gordini Moderator

    That's fantastic! Thank you so much! Fascinating reading as well. I didn't know the system was so complicated/sophisticated. A lot of engineering work went into that. I suppose modern cars are even more complicated/sophisticated.
    I'm looking forward to reading out those fault codes tomorrow when it's light outside.

    Thanks again,
  14. la21t

    la21t Well-Known Member

    Mines never worked......I cured it by taking the bulb out the dash
  15. r5gordini

    r5gordini Moderator

    Very good! I'd like to fix mine... Have just read the codes. There are quite a few!

    22 - Front left-hand inlet solenoid valve - check valves and connections
    25 - Front right-hand inlet solenoid valve
    -- these suggest that the connector isn't fitted correctly as a result of the work that was done on the car. ABS worked perfectly before I gave the car to the garage
    32 - Front right-hand sensor
    37 - Rear right-hand sensor sensor winding or cable circuit open/intermittent/shorting. Air gap not to specification
    43 - Rear right-hand sensor - no sensor signal, sensor/target air gap too large
    58 - Rear left-hand sensor - Sensor signal absent long time
    77 - Low priority - rear right-hand sensor - hub vibrating, excessive play, air gap too small

    Oh well - I have no idea how long ago the codes were read out and cleared so I think I will now take the car out for another drive and let it re-record some faults so I can get only the current ones! Then I'll start with looking at the solenoid valve connections.
  16. DaveL485

    DaveL485 Staff Member

  17. DaveL485

    DaveL485 Staff Member

    Ignore the solenoid valve faults for now, i've never had to remedy any of those....only sensors and targets. The fact its working and then not suggests a sensor, target or air gap issue, as in a sensor is losing its signal. Maybe you have wheel bearing play and when the bearing loads up it moves the target away just enough to lose the read from the sensor? Or one of the sensor faces is very dirty, or there is damage on a target....loads of silly things.

    Question: When braking, do you ever feel the ABS twitch the pedal/activate without the wheels being locked?
  18. r5gordini

    r5gordini Moderator

    It's 37! The only fault recorded this morning. I don't think I ever hear or feel it being activated under unusual circumstances
  19. DaveL485

    DaveL485 Staff Member

    Make sure that sensor is secure, it's face is clean and the target is in good order and clean. Don't try and remove the sensor without being prepared to buy a new one lol
  20. r5gordini

    r5gordini Moderator

    Surprisingly enough I managed to extract the sensor without damaging it! Although I can see it is dented.

    It also had some iron filings on it so I have removed those. Being dented like that is probably enough to render it useless, is it not? I have a spare trailing arm with sensor so hopefully I can just use that one...
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